Replacing the pinion seal

TonyB · 05-14-2008

Hello,

I need to replace the pinion seal on 1971 Opel GT. Since I have to remove the drive shaft and undo the suspension should I replace the the rubber parts and the rear shocks at the sametime ?

Thanks Tony

opelwasp · 05-14-2008

NO! Never do two or three things at the same time. It's better to do the pinion seal only. Then put the rear end back in, then take it out again and do the shocks, then pull it one more time and do the bushings.

J/K yes the rear is a hassle to deal with, best to deal with it only once.

jlthunder · 05-14-2008

You don't need to drop the entire suspension to replace the pinion seal.

After you disconnect the driveshaft from the transmission, put a jack under the torque tube support. Undo the nuts and then lower the jack. Otherwise if you take the bolts out without the jack, it will snap down at you and if you are under it, you can get injured. Remove the torque tube(4 bolts) and the seal will be staring at you. Remove seal, install new seal and reverse your order for assembly. It shouldn't take you more than 2 hours for that seal.

To replace the spring seats and caps, just undo the long bar which goes to the body and rear end, disconnect the shocks and lower away. The panhard rods don't need to be removed unless you are changing those bushings too.

jeff denton · 05-14-2008

By all means, while the seal is out, check the pinion bearing for looseness. I haven't seen one yet (of only three, though) that were snug.

opelbits · 05-14-2008

Everything that has already been said....

plus...
If you are pulling the torque tube out, don't worry about the rearend, but consider the torque tube mounts, bearing, and bushings. They are relatively easy to replace.

Also, the last two pinion seals I have done continued to weep a bit. Well, one was to the point of being an actual leak, but it wasn't as bad as it was. This was due to the wear on the torque shaft where the seal rides on it. Even though I haven't done it yet, my GT needs a Redi-sleeve installed on the shaft to get a good seal again. The other one could have used it too.

05-14-2008	#1 (permalink)
TonyB TonyB Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Niwot, Co Posts: 87	Replacing the pinion seal Hello, I need to replace the pinion seal on 1971 Opel GT. Since I have to remove the drive shaft and undo the suspension should I replace the the rubber parts and the rear shocks at the sametime ? Thanks Tony

05-14-2008	#2 (permalink)
opelwasp Non Civilian Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Between Chico and Sac, CA Posts: 1,596	NO! Never do two or three things at the same time. It's better to do the pinion seal only. Then put the rear end back in, then take it out again and do the shocks, then pull it one more time and do the bushings. J/K yes the rear is a hassle to deal with, best to deal with it only once. __________________ Arguing online is the same as racing in the Special Olympics; no matter who wins, you're both still retarded.

05-14-2008	#3 (permalink)
jlthunder 1000 Post Club Join Date: May 2003 Location: Salfordville, PA Posts: 2,143 Real Name: Jeff	You don't need to drop the entire suspension to replace the pinion seal. After you disconnect the driveshaft from the transmission, put a jack under the torque tube support. Undo the nuts and then lower the jack. Otherwise if you take the bolts out without the jack, it will snap down at you and if you are under it, you can get injured. Remove the torque tube(4 bolts) and the seal will be staring at you. Remove seal, install new seal and reverse your order for assembly. It shouldn't take you more than 2 hours for that seal. To replace the spring seats and caps, just undo the long bar which goes to the body and rear end, disconnect the shocks and lower away. The panhard rods don't need to be removed unless you are changing those bushings too. __________________ 1972 Opel GT, Owner since 1983 2001 Saab 9-5 SE 3.0 Turbo V6 Weeeeeeeeeee!!! 1973 GT, Parted out, R.I.P. 1968 Kadette, Owner since 2006, Sold, 28 June 2008

05-14-2008	#4 (permalink)
jeff denton former opel racer Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: near some glaciers Posts: 2,863 Real Name: Jeff "Oh-Oh" Denton	By all means, while the seal is out, check the pinion bearing for looseness. I haven't seen one yet (of only three, though) that were snug. __________________ No Opels were harmed in the filming of this movie. However two Mustangs, a Pinto, and a Capri were hospitalized. One Mustang was euthanized the next morning.

05-14-2008	#5 (permalink)
opelbits Detritus Maximus Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: St. Louis MO Posts: 1,160	Everything that has already been said.... plus... If you are pulling the torque tube out, don't worry about the rearend, but consider the torque tube mounts, bearing, and bushings. They are relatively easy to replace. Also, the last two pinion seals I have done continued to weep a bit. Well, one was to the point of being an actual leak, but it wasn't as bad as it was. This was due to the wear on the torque shaft where the seal rides on it. Even though I haven't done it yet, my GT needs a Redi-sleeve installed on the shaft to get a good seal again. The other one could have used it too. __________________ "No, it's not fiberglass." "No, the motor is not in the back." "No, your friend in high school did not 'peg' his speedometer."

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