Central Joint Rebuild

bubbaschreiner · 07-30-2006

Anybody have a good "Explosive" view of the central joint and how it attaches to the pinion? I'm wondering if after the propeller shaft is removed, you can just detach the front bracket where the donut is and then the 4 bolts that attach the tube to the rear differential and just pull the whole tube out as a unit for rebuilding? The only explosive view I've seen is very crude and unclear. It appears that the internal shaft just slips over the pinion nut like a socket.
Any help ????:

namba209 · 07-30-2006

On the left side of the home page in the tech center block, there is an interchange parts manual. it is a PDF file you can download, look on pages 33-35 for an Illustrated Parts Breakdown of the drive shaft/rear axle assemblies. HTH.

markandson · 07-30-2006

Yes, inside the torque tube at the rear end there is a spline connection that just slides apart, there is a lip type oil seal that keeps the oil in the rear end.

bubbaschreiner · 07-30-2006

Thanks, Jeff. Hope you're right. Guess you've been there, done that !!!
As soon as the weather gets cooler here, (It was 100 F. here today), I'm going to take the whole torgue tube out in one piece. It'll be a lot easier to do on the bench . . .
I just rebuilt the propeller shaft, centered the joints & glued them back in with titanium epoxy. Looks like OGTS has all parts for the central joint, including the oil seal at the pinion.

jlthunder · 07-31-2006

A word of caution. Make sure you have a jack under the torque tube mount supporting it as it is loaded. After the 2 bolts are out, slowly lower the mount until the load is off. If you don't and you are close to the mount when you remove the bolts, it could hit you rather hard.

The 4 bolts on the pumpkin where the torque tube ends are the famous "opel star pattern", not standard hex head bolts. I replaced mine with the proper hardness hex head bolts.

Replace the rear pinion seal on the rear end while you are in there. It is easy if you have a seal puller and it will save your rear end(the car's and yours

)

Rebuild everything while it is on the bench.

Just a few suggestions.

07-30-2006	#1 (permalink)
bubbaschreiner Opeler Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Pine Hill, NJ Posts: 9	Unanswered: Central Joint Rebuild Anybody have a good "Explosive" view of the central joint and how it attaches to the pinion? I'm wondering if after the propeller shaft is removed, you can just detach the front bracket where the donut is and then the 4 bolts that attach the tube to the rear differential and just pull the whole tube out as a unit for rebuilding? The only explosive view I've seen is very crude and unclear. It appears that the internal shaft just slips over the pinion nut like a socket. Any help ????: Last edited by bubbaschreiner; 07-30-2006 at 09:13 PM.

07-30-2006	#2 (permalink)
namba209 6,000 Post Club Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Imperial Beach, CA South of San Diego Posts: 6,054 Provided Answers: 6	On the left side of the home page in the tech center block, there is an interchange parts manual. it is a PDF file you can download, look on pages 33-35 for an Illustrated Parts Breakdown of the drive shaft/rear axle assemblies. HTH. __________________ Ron 72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed. 75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next

07-30-2006	#4 (permalink)
bubbaschreiner Opeler Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Pine Hill, NJ Posts: 9	So . . .It just pulls apart . . . Eh !!! Thanks, Jeff. Hope you're right. Guess you've been there, done that !!! As soon as the weather gets cooler here, (It was 100 F. here today), I'm going to take the whole torgue tube out in one piece. It'll be a lot easier to do on the bench . . . I just rebuilt the propeller shaft, centered the joints & glued them back in with titanium epoxy. Looks like OGTS has all parts for the central joint, including the oil seal at the pinion.

07-31-2006	#5 (permalink)
jlthunder 1000 Post Club Join Date: May 2003 Location: Salfordville, PA Posts: 2,143 Real Name: Jeff	A word of caution. Make sure you have a jack under the torque tube mount supporting it as it is loaded. After the 2 bolts are out, slowly lower the mount until the load is off. If you don't and you are close to the mount when you remove the bolts, it could hit you rather hard. The 4 bolts on the pumpkin where the torque tube ends are the famous "opel star pattern", not standard hex head bolts. I replaced mine with the proper hardness hex head bolts. Replace the rear pinion seal on the rear end while you are in there. It is easy if you have a seal puller and it will save your rear end(the car's and yours ) Rebuild everything while it is on the bench. Just a few suggestions. __________________ 1972 Opel GT, Owner since 1983 2001 Saab 9-5 SE 3.0 Turbo V6 Weeeeeeeeeee!!! 1973 GT, Parted out, R.I.P. 1968 Kadette, Owner since 2006, Sold, 28 June 2008

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