Universal joint replacement.

[David McCollam]

Well, now that the old Getrag is installed, the driveshaft of the Rallye needs to be shortened.

I have both new universal joints, front and rear. The problem is, no one has the capablility to install them, but the GM Factory! The solution to the driveshaft problem seems to be, use the old rear coupling intact, cut the front of the tube and use a small yoke with a GM T-350, 27-spline input shaft.

Any suggestions?

Dave

[namba209]

Dave, it shouldn't be that big a deal. I had the driveshaft on Willit? shortened, with new OGTS rear U-joint and a new S-10 front U-joint installed by a local driveshaft shop. They even used the plastic injection method required on the Opel U-joint.

[David McCollam]

Hi Ron,

Well, here in Cowtown (Fort Worth) the boys seem a bit at odds on what to do. I have both U-joints and plenty of drive shafts with yokes, but no one with the means to install the plastic injection u-joints. Do you have a number for your shop and I can call to ask about it? I may ship one out to them with the length requirements.

Thanks,

Dave

[namba209]

Sure thing Dave, you wanna talk to Tim Foot, he's the owner and a real gearhead. He's got a really neat roadster, Chromed out the kazoo and an SBC in it. Here's his number, just call between 9-5 PST Mon-Fri. 619-275-0150.

[David McCollam]

Hey Ron,

Thanks so much. The attempted fix by the local shop was just that, an attempt. I struggled for an hour last night trying to get the one that was created to slide into the transmission. No go.

I thought it was me for a second, but the original yoke slid on and off like a dream. Another yoke on an Opel automatic driveshaft does the same thing. The yokes must be so similar that they cannot be differentiated with the naked eye. I will take it back this morning and see if there is any chance that they can replace the Checvy yoke with the Opel end and hope to get in balance. If not, I'll call Tim and get his take on the situation.

Thanks again,

Dave

[neuropel]

Is this problem at all related to this one?
It seems chevy yokes are not quite the same. Bill Hoffman I believe first found this to be the case. Have a look at the later posts in this thread.

Todd

[Bill Hoffmann]

They are so close, you think it has to work. In fact, the Chevy yoke will fit the Opel automatic transmission. It sure won't fit the Getrag though.

[David McCollam]

Ron and Co.,

After careful study and input from may segments. I am sending all of the parts and reminants to Driveline Services of San Diego. They will fab and return. I will send details when the finished product is complete and in hand.

Dave

[OpelJim]

Originally Posted by David McCollam Well, now that the old Getrag is installed, the driveshaft of the Rallye needs to be shortened. I have both new universal joints, front and rear. The problem is, no one has the capablility to install them, but the GM Factory! The solution to the driveshaft problem seems to be, use the old rear coupling intact, cut the front of the tube and use a small yoke with a GM T-350, 27-spline input shaft. Any suggestions? Dave

What I heard it is a simple task you need an automatic opel drive shaft that is cut and welded to a 4 speed opel driveshaft.
OGTS should have them already fabricated or can have them done if you send the parts and for a small fee they will do it

[jeff denton]

I used a NAPA U joint and welded washers on the yokes to hold them in. Worked fine.

[Lindsay]

Originally Posted by namba209 Dave, it shouldn't be that big a deal. I had the driveshaft on Willit? shortened, with new OGTS rear U-joint and a new S-10 front U-joint installed by a local driveshaft shop. They even used the plastic injection method required on the Opel U-joint.

Driveline Services of San Diego
1090 Morena Blvd
San Diego, CA 92110
(619) 275-0150 Tim Foot
Driveline Services is (6) miles from my house. I might have to stop by and see what they got.

Reviewing 1973 OPEL FSM, could not find any reference to U-Joints Servicing.
Briefly, how are U-joints Replaced & Plastic Injection Method?

[namba209]

Originally Posted by Lindsay Driveline Services of San Diego 1090 Morena Blvd San Diego, CA 92110 (619) 275-0150 Tim Foot Driveline Services is (6) miles from my house. I might have to stop by and see what they got. Reviewing 1973 OPEL FSM, could not find any reference to U-Joints Servicing. Briefly, how are U-joints Replaced & Plastic Injection Method?

IDK how it's done Lindsay, that's why I gave it to Tim. It's a case of letting the pro do the deed if you don't know how.

[dcm013]

Originally Posted by namba209 Dave, it shouldn't be that big a deal. I had the driveshaft on Willit? shortened, with new OGTS rear U-joint and a new S-10 front U-joint installed by a local driveshaft shop. They even used the plastic injection method required on the Opel U-joint.

I just called this place. They said they did do Opel u-joints with plastic injection in the past but no longer do. They didn't go into detail but said it involved an insurance company .

OGTS told me the only u-joints available are the ones with the groove for plastic injection. Anybody know of a shop that can do the plastic injection?

Don

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by dcm013 OGTS told me the only u-joints available are the ones with the groove for plastic injection. Anybody know of a shop that can do the plastic injection? Don

No, but I used to do my own. You can accomplish the same thing by measuring the new u-joint width with the caps installed, and then checking the measurements of the old u-joints before removal. Then I press out the old joints, and bead-blast the old driveshaft parts. I fit the new joint in place by hand, and using the new measurement vs. the old measurement, center it in the yoke. Metal block are then clamped to the sides of the yoke with paper shims making up the distance between the caps and the yoke faces (this centers the u-joint in the same position as the old one). Then, using a plastic hypodermic needle, I inject West System epoxy resin into the same passages that once held plastic, until it drips out the opposite end. Once I know it's full, I wipe the end clean and tape over that same end, then add more epoxy until it's full. Let cure 2-3 days. In testing on a press, it took about three times the pressure to 'pop' the epoxy fitted joints compared to the OEM plastic. If you measured carefully, the balance will be perfect.

Bob

[dcm013]

Thank you Bob. I'll give it a try on one of the spare driveshafts I have.

OGTS told me pretty much the same thing - to inject epoxy - but I feel better about it knowing you've compared press-out loads. I've got some plastic hypodermics I picked up at Carlisle and there's even a West Marine close to home.

I'll probably have the shaft rebalanced afterwards just to be sure.

Don

[Tru-Craft]

I did the same thing as RallyBob.
I used Epoxy, and got a syringe at Walgreens.
Been on the car for 2 years.
Lyle