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#1 (permalink) |
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Rookie
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: McPherson, KS
Posts: 50
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Answered: Nasty grinding noise
Two questions: 1- Does anyone feel strongly that this may sound like something else? 2- Should this kind of work be left to a real mechanic? I'm usually a do-it-yourselfer, but I'm nowhere near a mechanic, and it seems like this assembly would be a tricky one requiring special tools. Appreciate any help and opinions!
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Chilly 1970 GT - Red with black interior |
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Most Helpful Answer - Posted by jeff denton
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Like a lab technician looking at your blood for a disease, study the gear oil. It will tell you if the rear is coming apart or not. Are there little tiny specks of metal in the oil? A magnet dipped in will help show this. Need an experienced, educated guess? The pinion bearings are going. Both GT diffs I've been into had this problem. There are threads about the overhaul of the diff. My advice is to have a real mechanic do it. Forget the manual, it will have you buying special tools and doing too much math. It's a simple differential. A mechanic can figure it out. However, it will be pointed out over and over in this thread that you really want to start over with a later rear end. The '70 (early) style has problems in its design. Plus it's a lot simpler (and cheaper, that's important, right?) to swap the rear end assembly than to overhaul the early diff. You will be horrified at what the parts will cost! Been there. Thanks again, Rallye73 for the later rear end, and thanks again Stan for all the parts to build it! |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Uber Genius
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 780
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It could be the rear U-joint
Don't count it out. It's pretty close to the front of the rear differential.
I've never done a front differential bearing. Scares me to even think about it. I don't scare easy.
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Opel GTs are not GM products |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Posts: 424
Real Name: Neil
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Seems like an obvious question but I'll ask. Have you removed the differential cover and drained the fluid out and cleaned it out with some brake kleen?
The fluid in my differential had not been changed in years (I'm sure because of previous owners) and it was very dark and dirty. Since changing the fluid and differential seal it sounds much smoother when I drive it. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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former opel racer
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: near some glaciers
Posts: 2,863
Real Name: Jeff "Oh-Oh" Denton
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Like a lab technician looking at your blood for a disease, study the gear oil. It will tell you if the rear is coming apart or not. Are there little tiny specks of metal in the oil? A magnet dipped in will help show this.
Need an experienced, educated guess? The pinion bearings are going. Both GT diffs I've been into had this problem. There are threads about the overhaul of the diff. My advice is to have a real mechanic do it. Forget the manual, it will have you buying special tools and doing too much math. It's a simple differential. A mechanic can figure it out. However, it will be pointed out over and over in this thread that you really want to start over with a later rear end. The '70 (early) style has problems in its design. Plus it's a lot simpler (and cheaper, that's important, right?) to swap the rear end assembly than to overhaul the early diff. You will be horrified at what the parts will cost! Been there. Thanks again, Rallye73 for the later rear end, and thanks again Stan for all the parts to build it!
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No Opels were harmed in the filming of this movie. However two Mustangs, a Pinto, and a Capri were hospitalized. One Mustang was euthanized the next morning. Last edited by jeff denton; 12-29-2008 at 03:29 AM. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Old Opeler
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 5,686
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Nasty noise ...
I trust that you have stopped driving it!
The GT diffs do have a habit of the pinion bearing spacer collapsing and then the pinion nut loosens so that the pinion moves back and forth - grinding the diff gears away. If caught soon enough the pinion nut can sometimes be re-tightened and the diff will last a little longer. Best start looking for a 1971-73 GT diff in good condition if the one you have has been driven for any length of time with that horrible grinding noise!
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GTJim Opel Owner since last Century! Copyright © 2000-2009 J D Henry All Rights Reserved |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Rookie
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: McPherson, KS
Posts: 50
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Some additional info...
I had the diff oil drained and replaced earlier this fall. I checked for flecks with the magnet trick, and it appears very clean. I found no flecks in a couple attempts.
While under there, I noticed the torque tube donut has a lot of dry rot, so it needs to be replaced for sure. I think I'll take it in and have the pinion bearings, bearing spacer, and possibly the u-joint replaced. Any guesses on which is going to be in the worst shape when it's cracked open?
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Chilly 1970 GT - Red with black interior |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Über OpelGT.com Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 4,087
Real Name: Keith Wilford
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Another possibility is the central joint bearing, which is a "sealed" bearing sitting inside a shell case, which sits inside the torque tube donut. It is quite common for dirt and such to get inside the bearing shell case, which then causes the bearing to make a grinding noise. And since it is directly connected to the rear drive shaft, the noise can sometimes be mistaken for a piled-up differential pinion bearing.
HTH
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Keith Wilford working on my '71 GT and '75 SportWagon |
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