1.1 kadett drive shaft bearing

[Jinx]

I'm derusting my rear axle of my kadett and i've run into something weird. The bearing of the drive shaft has a lip on it, while the obvious replacement for it, does not.

the bearing that's coming out has 6004RS printed on it, made by FAG (yes in english that is a bit rude). a replacement would be a 6004-2RSR i think (although i'll ask a professional if i do replace it)


http://jinx.koendd.be/wp-content/upl...9-1024x768.jpg
http://jinx.koendd.be/wp-content/upl...8-1024x768.jpg
http://jinx.koendd.be/wp-content/upl...sr+Bearing.jpg


The bearing sounds clear and not gritty. Two questions... should i replace it? (15€ for a bearing) and if so, do i just ditch the lip? or do i try 'n put it onto the new bearing (the lip seems to be pressed over it)


(now how to i insert images.... [ img] doesn't work... if you dont like clicking 3 links... here's 1 to my dutch blog where all are displayed: Nog werken aan de achteras David’s blog )

[GTJIM]

That sheild is probably there to guard against water/mud/grit being driven into the bearing during operation of the car.

Just use a new 6004 2RS bearing with a thin steel washer in front of it - between the drive yoke that slides on to the splines and the front of the bearing. Try to find one with a sliding fit onto the spline and big enough to cover out past the rubber sealing ring on the bearing.

Smear a bit of Water Pump grease (or water-proof wheel bearing grease) over the face of the bearing; between the shim washer and the front of the bearing; and over the outside of the shim washer.

Better still if you can find a nice Stainless Steel shim washer.

Always a good idea to fit a new (quality Brand!) bearing when you have stuff apart - the 'good' used one always seems to fail and 'go bad' a few weeks after we decide against fitting a new one ... Murphy is always lurking.

HTH

[Jinx]

That sheild is probably there to guard against water/mud/grit being driven into the bearing during operation of the car.

thats what it looks like, yup. The yoke has a lip that goes over the one on the bearing.
seen here: http://jinx.koendd.be/wp-content/upl...0-1024x768.jpg

a descent replacement isn't even expensive at 15-20€ so its the way to go.

Would leaving off the lip give any problems with the donut as it adds about 1mm in diameter?

[GTJIM]

Originally Posted by Jinx Would leaving off the lip give any problems with the donut as it adds about 1mm in diameter?

The bigger 1.9L rubber doughnuts are very tight to get the bearing into - I would guess the smaller 1.1L one will be even more fun!

Not having the outer shield might even make the replacement job a tiny bit easier.

If the original shield is pressed on over the outer diameter of the old bearing you may even be able to warm it up and carefully tap it off then press it on to the new bearing- if you really want to use it.

[Jinx]

i've checked the inner diameter of my replacement donut and its exactly 42mm. The same as the outer diameter of the bearing without the shield. Had a quick go at trying to get the old bearing in the donut and it's not easy indeed.

I'm getting the new bearing today i hope and i'll experiment a bit with it. if it's fit is good enough i'll try getting the shield off the old one.

[Jinx]

The change went perfectly.

I rested the shield on my benchvice and 2 taps with a small hammer a socket and the bearing popped out!

degreased and put the new bearing in with small taps over the outer rim.
The fight with the donut was relatively short (aided by my trusty screwdriver stretching the rubber)

only 1 more question to ask!

The hole in the new donut towards the back is smaller in diameter than in the old one. The old rubber fits nicely over the shaft (approx the ID of the be bearing + 2-3mm) while the new one is exactly the ID of the bearing, so doesn't fit over the shaft...

Is this because the old one has a part that's worn away? or do i need to make the hole a bit larger on the new one?

[GTJIM]

First - you do have the doughnut around the correct way - that smaller hole to the rear is another seal that keeps junk out of the driveshaft ... and the diff oil in.

The should be a smooth, machined (shiny) bit of the driveshaft that it is positioned over - as long as you use some grease back there too it should be OK - it needs to just touch (be 0.5mmish smaller) than that shiny part of the forward end of the driveshaft. Good idea to polish that area so that it is nice and smooth so it won't rapidly wear away the sealing bit of the doughnut.

Nearly there!

Warming up the rubber doughnut by pouring some 60 to 80 degree C hot water over it can make final fitting easier - not too hot, or you burn your fingers!

[Jinx]

The difference between the old and the new donut is too big so i'll make the hole a bit bigger. Its much narrower than the shaft-0.5mm.

Does it matter which grease i use? i've got bearing grease and copper grease...


Jim, thanks alot for the help

[GTJIM]

The copper 'grease' is not lubricating grease but for anti-rust coating of threads. So do not use that - it is not actually lubrication grease. Just use that on the threads of the bolts that hold the unit on to the car - they will be easier to undo next time!

Use the other Lithium based wheel bearing grease - it should say 'water proof' some where. The type of grease used by boating people in their boat trailer wheels, which they back down into the water to unload their boats. Also known as water pump grease. You don't want the rain and snow to wash the grease out - it is all exposed under the car in Winter time!

Glad to be able to help - I have to fix my 1967 Kadett Rallye 1.1L some time - so your doing it helps me know what to expect too!

[Jinx]

the beaing grease i have is lithium based and is indeed water resistant so that wil be used. Thanks again