Clunking in drivetrain

[layed521]

I think I have pinpointed the origin of the clicking that occurrs
as the car is rolled. I got it on jack-stands & the carrier-bearing
looks shot. I can move the d/l up & down & side to side & even slightly
forward & backward. When I pushed the d/l forward, I could spin the
wheels & it would sit still, but when I pushed the d/l back into place
everything seemed to spin fine & no clicking. So, how do I fix that? I
know I'll need the carrier-bearing, but is that it? Next is the leak,
where the torgue tube meets the rearend, thats where its leaking gear
oil. To fix that I know I'll need a pinion seal, anything else? I can't
wait til my book gets here, lol. I'm sure you guys will get tired of
these posts soon, lol. Thanks again guys, L8R

[jlthunder]

From what you describe the "carrier" bushing is what we call the "donut" for the center bearing. These rot away over time. I'd replace this. Since you need a pinion seal, I'd remove the torque tube and perform the donut replacement on a bench. While it is out, replace all of the rubber mounts on the torque tube mount. OGTS sells poly bushings for this.

If you can get a seal puller for the pinion seal, you will have it out in under 30 seconds. Clean the area and replace the seal. OGTS also sells this seal.

Word of caution. Place a floor jack under the torque tube mount while undoing the mounting bolts. The tube is loaded and will spring down toward you when you remove the mounting bolts.

The last thing I'd do is replace the 4 bolts which connect the torque tube to the rear axle. Opel uses the torx type head. I replaced mine with standard 6 sided bolts. Make sure you use the same hardness(or harder) on the replacement bolts.

Let us know how it goes.

Jeff

[layed521]

Ok, so I got on order: 1 Solex Carb rebuild Kit, 1 Center Support Damping ring, 1 Center Support Bearing, 2 Support Bushings, 1 Upper Stop, 1 Pinion Seal, & 4 Bolts for the Torque Tube to Rearend. The U-Joints looked OK, so I didn't order them, & I'll get the stuff to freshen up the axel itself later. Anything I may be missing on my list to take care of the D/L & Torque Tube?

[GTJIM]

When you remove the driveshaft make sure that there is a spring inside the yoke that bear against the end of the gearbox output (tail) shaft. It is in there to pre-load the driveshaft back against the pinion. Also check the 'button' on the front end of the pinion to make sure it has not been battered away. Sometimes that spring gets left out and this allows the driveshaft to float back and forward. Also check the area on the outer surface of the splined coupling that goes into the diff seal to make sure that the sealing surface is not worn - you may have to fit a special, thin sleeve here to fix it - called a "Redi-sleeve" - which is available from bearing suppliers.

[layed521]

If this spring you speak of isn't in there, then what? Is it available from anywhere? I dont recall seeing anything like that listed on ogts.com. Speaking of ogts, they rock, lol! Only 8.75 to ship all that stuff I ordered. I can't wait for it all to get here. Hurry UPS man, HUURRRYYYY!

[nobody]

They have the springs, just gotta ask.

[GTJIM]

Originally Posted by layed521 If this spring you speak of isn't in there, then what?

The spring is an important and VITAL part of the drive shaft set-up. Most of your troubles are probably directly linked to the lack of that spring. Without it there is NOTHING to hold the drive shaft in its correct position and it will batter the end of the pinion to DEATH. The problem is compounded by the fact that it is all enclosed in the torque tube so the damage cannot be seen until it is too late. Please don't even consider driving the car with all those new parts in there and no spring - or you will be doing it all over again.
Just another of Opel's fine foibles!

[jlthunder]

Originally Posted by layed521 If this spring you speak of isn't in there, then what?

If OGTS doesn't have one, PM me and I can send you one. I have one or 2 spares

Jeff

[DaveKayson]

I had a similar problem in my '73 Gt. I rebuilt the torque tube and still had the noise. Finally replaced the rearend with one from another GT. Put in new poly bushings and spring hats. The only thing I noticed on the old rearend was that the cap was really mushroomed. I'm thinking I still have spring in the trans tail shaft as I got spring action when I disconnected and connected the driveshaft. I can't see the spring because it's behind the tranny seal. I think the old rearend was ok just that cap needs to be replaced. Does anyone know where to get one? OGTS???

I imagine the driveshaft was slapping the rearend and that's what mushroomed the cap...My noise is currently gone. but when I drive it hard and powershift the gears, I'll feel a thump between 1st and 2nd. Also if I hit pretty good bump on the road, I'll also hear and or feel that thump. Shocks are new and the springs looked ok when I had them out. Any suggestions. Thanks Dave

[opelnut10]

While you have the yorque tube down, check the internal spline on the propeller shaft inside the torque tube and the barrel spline on the pinion shaft to make sure they are alright. If the bolts that hold the torque tube to the rearend housing have been loose (common problem) you will get that thumping noise and gearlube leak too.

[layed521]

I will be sure to check that stuff out while I have it apart. I was expecting my box o' OGTS goodies today, but it didn't show. :-( No biggie I guess, I wont be able to get the car to my shop until Monday anyway.

[layed521]

So I got my OGTS stuff yesterday & I was looking at the installation sheets they sent along with my parts. Does the Tourque Tube Doughnut split in 2 to get the bearing into the middle of it? Thats the way its explained on the sheet, but there is no gap on the 1 they sent me to split it like it says on the sheet. Or is that how the OE doughnuts were & this 1 has to have the bearing pressed into the middle?

[jordan]

You just push it down over the carrier bearing, if you got the heavy duty donut it may be kind of difficult to get it on, I put the donut in the support bracket to begin with then but the whole assembly over the carrier bearing. Some silicone spray would help

[bosco]

the donut is all one piece....also be careful with the tangs that hold everything into the carrier, a previous owner had broken a few of mine off and the remaining ones were pretty fragile from being bent before. Hopefully you got all the new rubber parts including the little red one that keeps the top of the torque tube from hitting the carrier. I used lotsa silicone spray and some little known wrestling moves to get the whole assembly back together. I found it to be a real pain but it did stop all the clunking. I never could get the nut off to replace the bearing itself but it seemed to move very freely and without any gritty sensation.

[GTJIM]

What a marvelous description - and so true!

The doughnut MUST remain whole and the bearing carrier put in the correct way around - or you have to remove it and try again. This causes "Little Known Cussing Moves!!"

Use Silicone spray or waterproof grease to help the bearing slide in - DON"T use soapy water, washing-up liquid (rusts bearing!) or brake fluid (deteriorates the doughnut!).

Soak the doughnut in hot water before trying to install it so that it becomes softer and easier to "westle" with........

It is important to fill the area around the bearing with Water Pump (water resistant) grease to keep the bearing from rusting solid.

Here is a pic of the offensive item:

[layed521]

GGRRR! lol OK, so whats the best way to get the donut back into the support bracket? Thats the only thing holding me up right now. Got the new pinion seal in, new bearing is in the donut, etc. I tried WD40 to help it slip in there, but no go.

[GTJIM]

A large spoon, a cricket bat and KY jelly .......... and strong thumbs.

1) Lube lavishly
2) Push doughnut against suport with flat of cricket bat
3) Work edges of doughnut into support with handle of spoon
4) Keep at it till it fits

HTH

[baz]

jim you were doing fine up to half way through part 2 then you lost 3/4 of the members any idea if those silly rounders bats will do ? you know the ones for that girls game they play on a big square set on its corner ?

[GTJIM]

Perhaps i should have said: "The flat of a bit of two by four"
Got to get that around the right way too!

BTW: I am being serious - using the bit of wood with one end wedged against the floor of the car to hold the doughnut against the carrier is one way to hold it in place while you work the edges in with the handle of a spoon using a suitable lubricant will make things a bit easier.

The Cricket bat and KY jelly just make it sooo much more enjoyable .....

Sorry - I am giving our secrets away, Baz!

[opelnut10]

I wish I could make the money some of those "girls" I would be able to buy a trip to England or some other commonwelth (except Canada, we have liberated them) where I can drive on the wrong side of the road and drink room temp. beer

[layed521]

I don't have a cricket bat & all outta KY, lol. I did get it in though, with a hydraulic press, some disc brake grease, & a couple flat-blade scrwdrivers. Eeven with the press though that was a PITA! 1 step closer to having the GT streetable though, can't wait!

[tomking]

Put the donut in boiling water for a few minutes and then it is easier to work in.

[layed521]

UPDATE: Got the torque tube & driveshaft back in the car with all their newly replaced parts. Replaced the diff. cover gasket, & refilled the rear with Lucas 80/90. Topped the trans off with 80/90 as well. Cleaned & painted the diff cover & torque tube Flat Black. Now I just gotta get the carb rebuilt & install the hazzard switch in place of the PO's temp fix. I put pics up of the painted cover & torque tube in my garage too.