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#1 (permalink) |
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Guest
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Unanswered: Clunking Noise
Got a 72 gt with 4 speed. Problem is ever so often when shifting gears (most common in first gear) when we let the clutch out we hear and feel a clunking noise. Exhaust is tight and "U" Joints check ok. Any ideas? |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Guest
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Typical Opel problem I´m afraid. Check all the mounts and bump stops at the torque tube center section, plus the rubber *donut* which houses the central bearing. Any or all of these (when worn) will create a thumping noise (sounds like someone is kicking the floor of the car) when you accelerate or shift gears. Best bet is to replace all of them at the same time, since replacing one worn part usually exposes the next weak link and they will then have to be replaced one piece at a time until the noise stops. Now is the time to take the torque tube down, clean it, paint it, and replace all the offending worn components, then install it and forget about it for another 15 years. Gil at Opel GT Source has these parts in stock almost always, and you might also check with Charles at GoinManta. Best of luck.
Bob |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Site Admin
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Sounds like the rubber support donut on the torque tube is shot. When there is a load on the driveline, the front of the torque tube will move, causing a loud noise and you may actually feel it behind the console.
Opel GT Source has them in stock. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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1000 Post Club
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Overland Park KS
Posts: 1,999
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donut distorted
I was looking at the driveline tonight. My torque tube donut has slipped out of position.
question 1- Does it need replaced or can i tap it back in?
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Thank you members of opelgt.com for helping me on a 5 year reconstruction of the most beautiful car in the world Celeste: 1917,cc ,getrag resealed, 2liter Intake valves,ported,ISKY cam on solids,Opel forged rods,9.52 compression,total seal gapless,oil dam,RB gasket mod., DCOE side drafts,sprint,2in straight exhaust,pertronix,OMNI paint,SACHS clutch,OGTS & Kadette sway bars,Manta finned pan,3 V clock,Ball joints and Poly all... SAA-WEET! |
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1 out of 1 members found this post helpful. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: corning ny 14830
Posts: 2,182
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From the looks of that torque tube donut I would say replace it as it looks like it has softened up over the years and it would benefit from a new one (the heavy duty one is the way to go) though it isn't a fun job.
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1970 Opel GT 1.9 1980 Moto Guzzi V50 2000 Saab 9-3 2.0 turbo 2000 KTM 200 exc STOLEN |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Non Civilian
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Between Chico and Sac, CA
Posts: 1,596
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I concur, it will only be a matter of time till it comes out again. It may be a good idea to install it using urethane sealant like they use for installing windshields. That may help prevent it from ever slipping out again.
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Arguing online is the same as racing in the Special Olympics; no matter who wins, you're both still retarded. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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former opel racer
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: near some glaciers
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Real Name: Jeff "Oh-Oh" Denton
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Just order up OGTS' heavy duty donut, Dean. It isn't that bad of a job to replace it.
But then if you want to get fancy, check out the ultimate fix. I think it is outlined on David Jackson's website. It uses a bearing instead of a rubber donut.
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No Opels were harmed in the filming of this movie. However two Mustangs, a Pinto, and a Capri were hospitalized. One Mustang was euthanized the next morning. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Project 1450 supporter...
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Pleasant Valley, CT
Posts: 7,450
Real Name: Bob Legere
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If it's 'gooey' then just replace it. I removed the t/t donut from my '72 wagon a couple of weeks ago. It was in perfect shape, no dry-rot, no cracking. But it was soft as heck. Compare it to the new OGTS donut and you'll see what I mean...
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My Flickr photos. Jan. 3, 1984 - Jan. 3, 2009, that's 25 years of this damn Opelitis! C.R.L. 9/22/69 - 12/8/99, J.M.L. 3/3/43 - 6/15/04 |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Kalifornia Kid
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Soulsbyville, CA
Posts: 357
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When you pull the drive shaft,...
also make sure you still have the thrust spring in place. It may be the donut walked forward do to the missing thrust spring.
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Drifting: dorifuto sōkō, a motor sport where the driver intentionally oversteers, causing loss of traction in the rear wheels through turns, while preserving vehicle control. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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1000 Post Club
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Overland Park KS
Posts: 1,999
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replacing rubber donut
how to replace donut ? I am following my 70 manual, section 40-7.
my central bearing and donut were new 4 -5 years ago. Question 1- do I need to take off the entire torque tube assembly? question 2_ fig 41-5 shows driving out the "drive pinion extension shaft" with a rubber mallet, with the torque tube in a vise...is this what I need to do? Question 3- is a "flange holder" tool needed? PS: yes, my thrust spring is in. My donut is rather new, 30,000 miles on it or so..definately less than 45,000. It probably is soft from oil leaks from various places.
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Thank you members of opelgt.com for helping me on a 5 year reconstruction of the most beautiful car in the world Celeste: 1917,cc ,getrag resealed, 2liter Intake valves,ported,ISKY cam on solids,Opel forged rods,9.52 compression,total seal gapless,oil dam,RB gasket mod., DCOE side drafts,sprint,2in straight exhaust,pertronix,OMNI paint,SACHS clutch,OGTS & Kadette sway bars,Manta finned pan,3 V clock,Ball joints and Poly all... SAA-WEET! |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Rookie
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: McPherson, KS
Posts: 50
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grease for pinion extension rod teeth?
I'm reassembling, and came to a question that I can't find an answer to.
The teeth on both the pinion and the pinion extension rod were both nasty and full of grit, dirt, grease, sludge... whatever. I cleaned everything up nicely, but need to know if the teeth are supposed to be greased or dry-fit. The service manual says nothing about greasing this connection, and I found nothing using search. Thanks!
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Chilly 1970 GT - Red with black interior |
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#12 (permalink) |
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No....its not a Buick....
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: IL.
Posts: 1,042
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I would think that trying to insert the two ends without some sort of lube would be a real PITA. As long as they are clean, why not add a few drops of clean oil or somthing similar (engine assembly lube)to ease the process.
JMTCW, Joe BTW, Ive NEVER seen ANY "dry" connection on any driveshaft part, if that puts your mind at ease.
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What ...we got here...is........failure......................... to communicate.... Some men,you just cant reach...so you get what we had here last week...which is the way he wants it. Well, he gets it...I dont like it, any more than you men... Last edited by yellaopelgt; 08-20-2009 at 12:25 PM. |
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