Engine locked-up after 12+ yrs on blocks...

[Knucklescuffer]

I've got a '72 Opel GT which I bought from an ill friend to help him get it out of his driveway. It had been up on blocks for 12+ years, but was reportedly in running condition up until that time. The oil is clean -- without water in it, and the coolant was bright green. Nonetheless, I have not been able to turn the engine. I've been putting automatic transmission fluid into the sparkplug holes in hopes of breaking loose rust between the rings and cylinder walls. A husky torque wrench on the crank bolt won't move it... I'm reluctant to tow it and drop the clutch, etc. for fear of breaking the piston skirts. I was going to pull the head and see if taking the valve train out of the loop would free things up, and wondered if this might also allow me to get to the top of the pistions to break them loose. Pulling the entire engine right now is not an option, since I'm due to move from TX to NV in about a month. Rather than tow it all the way there, I've had it up for sale as a project car for another opeler to pursue (see my ad in classifieds on this website). No takers yet -- the fact that the engine is locked-up understandably makes it less attractive.
I either need to get the engine freed-up and sell it here in San Antonio, or tow it with me out to Las Vegas and pull the engine once I get settled there... Any words of wisdom?

[BQS4]

Towing just to get it freed up may still be the way to go, but, instead of trying to pull it across town, just start out by leaving it in gear (hopefully it's a 4-spd) and just gently try to pull it and see if it pops free.

[GTJIM]

Before trying to move the motor drain out what ever now passes for oil in the pan and refill with new oil. Take the oil pump cover off and remove the gears and clean out the spiders and rust - lube them and pack them back in with petroleum jelly ("vaseline"). Change the oil filter - filling the new one with fresh oil.
Now, remove the distributor and turn the oil pump with a length of 1/2" (or even 12mm!!) round steel rod, with an end like the bottom of the distributor cut on to it, chucked into and electric drill. With the rocker cover removed run the oil pump till you see oil come out the cam bearings.

Put the car in 2nd or 3rd gear and rock it back and forward by hand till the engine 'comes free' - this is often accompanied by a LOUD "BANG"!! as the engine comes free.
Reinstall the distributor and time it correctly and try to tow start the motor with fresh fuel in the tank, new spark plugs, points and a fully charged battery.............

Brmmmm - Brrrrrmmmm - BRRRRUUUMMMM!! With luck!

[Gary]

Originally Posted by GTJIM ...Now, remove the distributor and turn the oil pump with a length of 1/2" (or even 12mm!!) round steel rod, with an end like the bottom of the distributor cut on to it, chucked into and electric drill. With the rocker cover removed run the oil pump till you see oil come out the cam bearings.

I have always had a fear that if the drill was not held straight, the rod (or old screwdriver shaft) would chew up the lower bushing in the timing cover and ruin it. I ended up taking the drive gear off an old dizzy and using a drill on that assembly to prime the oil pump.

[2 Fast 4 U]

And before pulling the car pore a little gas in the top of the carb

[maglinjosvinn]

completely sorta not related, but dad's seized up on him last year and we towed it wit hthe N9 to get it to start.

the problem in the end was the head wasn't flat like the machinist said it was and it was leaking antifreeze into it.

we ended up screwing things up under the car pulling it when he dropped the clutch tho... if you pull it be sure to attach well and secure, don't just throw a chain any old spot, otherwise you'll be replacing the underside of the nose, and don't ever use the tow hook under the bumper. those 4 bolts holding that in just don't have the balls.

[SpringGT]

If you are going to tow it to try and break it free, I'd do it with the plugs removed. This will keep you from "hurting" a rod or piston in case one or more cylinders is partially filled with anti-freeze or ATF, and you aren't really trying to start it at this point anyway.

Also, have you tried hooking up a battery to it and bumping the engine with the starter? You may have already tried this, but I didn't see any mention of it in your post.

[Knucklescuffer]

Thanks for the advice -- I'll try towing with the plugs out...

I had considered bumping the starter...but it appears a hungry rodent chewed my wiring harness while it was stored...

[ben]

try taking the plugs out and then turning
or try having a friend push it with the plugs out and you in the car foot on the cluch then went its moving good take your foot off the clucth
towing is too much force in i think

good luck my friend

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by ben towing is too much force in i think good luck my friend

The tires will usually just slide. Pull started several tractors in my day. Putting it in gear and rocking it back and forth might be a better idea though.
Harold

[baz]

Originally Posted by Knucklescuffer Thanks for the advice -- I'll try towing with the plugs out... I had considered bumping the starter...but it appears a hungry rodent chewed my wiring harness while it was stored...

arh opels the al a carte car of choice for most americam rodent