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#1 (permalink) |
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Opeler
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I've attached two pictures for reference on what I have seen on the head of my 72 GT. I cant tell if it is a broken bolt or a plug that resides in a hole just beneath the front right manifold bolt hole. The big red arrow points to the item in question. I would like to know if I have to remove it or leave it in place. Thanks in advance.
72 Opel Head 1.jpg 72 Opel Head 2.jpg |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Über OpelGT.com Moderator
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It's a plug, filing up a hole drilled during the manufacturing process, probably to bore a coolant or oil passage. Leave it be unless it was leaking.
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Keith Wilford
working on my '71 GT and '75 SportWagon |
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#4 (permalink) |
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former opel racer
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Exactly. It corresponds to the little hole near it on the head gasket surface, which is the oil feed from the block to the front cam bearing.
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No Opels were harmed in the filming of this movie. However two Mustangs, a Pinto, and a Capri were hospitalized. One Mustang was euthanized the next morning. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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1000 Post Club
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Plug to an oil passage. It can leak. I put one engine together that leaked from this hole. Since I'd never seen one leak from the plugged area we looked to the head gasket for the problem. After the second gasket for me and B'ham Bear installed the third one he spotted the problem. 2.0L head gaskets aren't cheap either. The leak was just enough to be annoying.
Harold |
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#6 (permalink) |
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former opel racer
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I believe that. I've not had a problem with one, thus haven't had to fix one. I do drill and tap the internal ones and use pipe plugs there, as well as the one in the back of the block. Surely the same could be done with the location in question.
Annoying oil leak? Heck, one drip of oil under our race cars can get you parked for the night. |
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No Opels were harmed in the filming of this movie. However two Mustangs, a Pinto, and a Capri were hospitalized. One Mustang was euthanized the next morning. |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Harold |
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#8 (permalink) |
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4246 Post Club
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Yep ...
That hole has been plugged at the factory by driving an ali (or steel!!) plug into it - no threads!
It is always a good idea to remove oil gallery plugs, clean out the drilling behind them and replace the drive-in plug with a threaded one. Often short in-hex (Allen head) grub screws can be used - just measure the hole size and select a thread size with the tapping drill closest to the existing hole measurement. OR 1/8" BSPT (or NPT!!) hex pipe plugs as used in air valves can often be used. Last edited by GTJIM; 05-26-2008 at 06:32 AM.. |
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GTJim
Opel Owner since last Century! Copyright © 2000-2008 J D Henry All Rights Reserved |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Has anyone ever removed this particular plug. On my CIH's, I had all the aluminum plugs drilled out and the holes tapped for threaded plugs, but this one is still "as is" |
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Keith Wilford
working on my '71 GT and '75 SportWagon |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Project 1450 supporter...
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I then tap them oversize to 1/8" NPT, and put in a pipe plug. The plug must be below the surface of the intake face, as some exhaust manifolds will overlap the plug and having a plug 'proud' of the surface means the exhaust will then leak... In this pic, you can see the plug has been removed. HTH, Bob |
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My Flickr photos.
Jan. 3, 1984 - Jan. 3, 2009, that's 25 years of this damn Opelitis! C.R.L. 9/22/69 - 12/8/99 J.M.L. 3/3/43 - 6/15/04 |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Thanks Bob. Is it a steel or aluminum plug? Do you drill it out, or extract it some other way such as drilling and tapping in a pulling bolt? And finally, how long a plug is it, and does the replacement plug have to reach in a certain depth, or simply plug the hole?
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Keith Wilford
working on my '71 GT and '75 SportWagon |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Project 1450 supporter...
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I drill them out completely, as the 1/8" NPT plug needs a larger hole to get the tap started anyway. You just have to plug the hole, that's all, so any shallow plug works fine. |
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My Flickr photos.
Jan. 3, 1984 - Jan. 3, 2009, that's 25 years of this damn Opelitis! C.R.L. 9/22/69 - 12/8/99 J.M.L. 3/3/43 - 6/15/04 |
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