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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ijamsville, Maryland
Posts: 145
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Unanswered: Which head and which aluminum oil pan?
Also, if I read the threads correctly, I could take one of the solid lifter cams and lifters out of the 69 heads and put it in the 71 head, as long as I rotate the unused cam bearing to block off the oil feed hole there. Is this correct? The engine I am rebuilding has an aluminum pan. The engine that is currently in the car also has an aluminum pan, but it is finned at the front. Is there any real advantage in using the finned pan? Is it worth using the finned pan in an effort to keep the engine oil cooler? It is my understanding that the finned pan never came on a GT, but I will retain it if it is really worth it. Fred Last edited by gtblast; 11-25-2008 at 11:19 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Opel Key Master
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1,301
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Best head
I too, like the 71-72 10 bolt heads, as they seem the least prone to crack. But I have seen them crack. Also are the 69 Delta heads marked with an "H"? If so they are probably the head of choice due to a little decrease in the combustion chamber, and if you are wanting to keep a solid lift cam-that would be my choice. I like a hydraulic cam, for ease of adjustment purposes.
Oil pan. I do not know if a finned pan really does much. Now with the oil temp sensor that GT source offers, I wish I could get the chance to do some swapping around. I run the finned pan as I like the way they look, but they did not originally come on the GT, but the Mantas. Either pan is fine, the only thing about the finned is if you polish it up, you pretty much loose any effect it would have had. I'm not sure about painting one, as it may not help cool either. Some poeple like steel pans better for racing applications as they will bend, where as aluminum cracks and -oil no more!!! Keith
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Questions or comments to the Project: Restoration of a GT series 2 -post here http://www.opelgt.com/forums/opel-gt...eries-2-a.html Last edited by tekenaar; 12-13-2008 at 11:03 AM. Reason: increase? . . actually smaller chamber, increased compression |
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#4 (permalink) |
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1971 GT
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Trail, British Columbia
Posts: 533
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I used a delta head in my rebuild before I knew any better. The early heads are strong but finding bearings for the delta head is a pain. At the time OTGS only had semi-finished ones that required align-boring. I did manage to find some Durabond OP-3 bearings but it took weeks. If I had to do it again I would avoid this problem.
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2.4 "Legere" Stroker - Weber DCOE45 - Getrag - Compufire - S10 Clutch |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ijamsville, Maryland
Posts: 145
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#6 (permalink) |
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Non Civilian
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Between Chico and Sac, CA
Posts: 1,596
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Uh...doing a rebuild and half-assing the cam bearings is a recipe for disaster. Just do the project right. Use the 71 head and have new seats put in it. I had the intakes and exhaust done.
Better to do it right than doing it again.
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Arguing online is the same as racing in the Special Olympics; no matter who wins, you're both still retarded. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Old Opeler
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 5,686
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Reasons ...
Save the 'good' 4-brng head for use with a high-lift 'hot' cam. I suspect the 'fins' are there more as a protection for the deeper part of the pan and to increase the clamping of the front end seal than for 'cooling'. Ali pans sound like good ideas - till you bash one on a traffic island and dump all the oil from the cracks .... put a skid plate underneath if you use one!
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GTJim Opel Owner since last Century! Copyright © 2000-2009 J D Henry All Rights Reserved |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ijamsville, Maryland
Posts: 145
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Ok Dan, thanks for the humor, and your points are well taken. I haven't even started on these heads or taken a serious look at them yet, but I will check all these things and make the corrections needed of course.
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ijamsville, Maryland
Posts: 145
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Thanks so much for the advice. At this time, I have no plans for a "hot" cam in this engine and will most likely use one of the original solid cams. That said, I will take your advice and save the 4 bearing head for a later build up. I am getting a bit ahead of myself as I have not had any of these heads magnafluxed yet. As for the aluminum pans, I am thinking I am less likely to strike something with the smooth pan than the one with the fin hanging down, so it may be safer to go with the non finned pan. Fred |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Posts: 26
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From European perspective it is interesting to follow these head related threads. People here are not exactly discussing about the same topics like you here, since the head selection in Europe is greater (I believe) thus giving more topics to chat about.
As for the head markings, I have not seen or heard nobody stating something what I could consider as a final factory truth. However, many people share this understanding at least in Finland about the markings and their meanings delta = head for solid lifters X = head for hydraulic lifters P = head for unleaded gasoline with hardened seats. Guess all 2.2 heads are P22 marked, some late edition 2.0 heads from mid/late eighties are also P20 marked. H or HL after 19 stands for head from Sprint engine (9.5 compression, smaller chamber, produced 1967-71) E after 2 or 20 or 19 stands for head from injection "E for Einspritzung" engines (9.4 compression, smaller combustion chamber) The race people try to locate heads with XR2EH markings. These are rare and said to be manufactured for racing applications. They are of excellent casting and have thick walls you can mold almost as you like. Just wonder how different this marking list is compared to US spec engines, many of them being low-comp and designed for unleaded fuel. |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ijamsville, Maryland
Posts: 145
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Thanks for your input. In my very limited experience, I have also found that all the delta heads are soild lifter and all the X heads are hydraulic. I have not seen the others yet. |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Senior Contributor
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Leonard, Texas
Posts: 888
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Has any one seen a 1.9/10 bolt head 4 bearing with "XSS" stamped on it. I have the delta19, the X19A, and the 19H heads but curious about the "XSS" 10 bolt head. Or is it just a plain (a) _ss head?
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rk 68 Kadett 2 Dr 1.1 SR/Rallye Suspension 68 Kadett Rallye 1.9/4 Spd & AC 69 GT 1.9/4 Spd 70 GT 1.9/5 Spd,87 Impulse PB/MC/4 wheel 10.5" vented Disc/complete suspension/power assist & tilt wheel steering 71 Kadett 2 Dr 1.1/4 Spd/4 wheel drum brakes(project:to a 1.9 FI/Auto 75 Big Brakes/Impulse vented rr Disc, Factory AC from Buick/Opel by Isuzu 72 GT 1.9 FI/Auto 75 Big Brakes/Impulse vented rr Disc 73 Manta Rallye 75 Ascona 1.9 FI/5 Spd/Impulse rr Disc brakes OPEL WERKS Last edited by Killer Texas GT; 12-12-2008 at 10:38 PM. |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Project 1450 supporter...
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Pleasant Valley, CT
Posts: 7,452
Real Name: Bob Legere
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Here in the US you must remember we only had three engines really. 1.5S (model year 1968 only), 1.9S (1968-1970), 1.9US (1971-1975). In 1975 (last year Opel was imported), the 1.9US had Bosch L-Jetronic EFI. Hp ratings: 1.5S - 80 SAE 'gross' hp 1.9S - 102 SAE 'gross' hp (90 PS/88 SAE net hp) 1.9US - (1971-1972) 78 SAE 'net' hp, (1973-1974) 75 SAE 'net' hp 1975 only - 80 SAE 'net' hp However, some early Kadett B and GT models had the 1.9H cylinder head fitted. Bob
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My Flickr photos. Jan. 3, 1984 - Jan. 3, 2009, that's 25 years of this damn Opelitis! C.R.L. 9/22/69 - 12/8/99, J.M.L. 3/3/43 - 6/15/04 |
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