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Old 11-25-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Unanswered: Which head and which aluminum oil pan?

I am rebuilding a spare engine I have, to put into my 70 GT. I have searched and read a lot of threads about the heads, and it appears the best head is a 1971 10 bolt head with 4 cam bearings. I have three heads to choose from, two 69 Delta heads and one 71 head marked X19A with four cam bearings. Is the 71 head still the best choice out of the three?

Also, if I read the threads correctly, I could take one of the solid lifter cams and lifters out of the 69 heads and put it in the 71 head, as long as I rotate the unused cam bearing to block off the oil feed hole there. Is this correct?

The engine I am rebuilding has an aluminum pan. The engine that is currently in the car also has an aluminum pan, but it is finned at the front. Is there any real advantage in using the finned pan? Is it worth using the finned pan in an effort to keep the engine oil cooler? It is my understanding that the finned pan never came on a GT, but I will retain it if it is really worth it.
Fred

Last edited by gtblast; 11-25-2008 at 11:19 PM.
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Old 11-25-2008   #2 (permalink)
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Best head

I too, like the 71-72 10 bolt heads, as they seem the least prone to crack. But I have seen them crack. Also are the 69 Delta heads marked with an "H"? If so they are probably the head of choice due to a little decrease in the combustion chamber, and if you are wanting to keep a solid lift cam-that would be my choice. I like a hydraulic cam, for ease of adjustment purposes.
Oil pan. I do not know if a finned pan really does much. Now with the oil temp sensor that GT source offers, I wish I could get the chance to do some swapping around. I run the finned pan as I like the way they look, but they did not originally come on the GT, but the Mantas. Either pan is fine, the only thing about the finned is if you polish it up, you pretty much loose any effect it would have had. I'm not sure about painting one, as it may not help cool either. Some poeple like steel pans better for racing applications as they will bend, where as aluminum cracks and -oil no more!!!
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Last edited by tekenaar; 12-13-2008 at 11:03 AM. Reason: increase? . . actually smaller chamber, increased compression
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Old 11-25-2008   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by opelspyder View Post
Also are the 69 Delta heads marked with an "H"? If so they are probably the head of choice due to a little increase in the combustion chamber, and if you are wanting to keep a solid lift cam-that would be my choice.
Keith
Keith, where would the 69 Delta heads be marked with the "H"? I will look them over again tomorrow, but as I recall, on the machined pad it only had the Delta triangle and 19.
Fred
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Old 11-25-2008   #4 (permalink)
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I used a delta head in my rebuild before I knew any better. The early heads are strong but finding bearings for the delta head is a pain. At the time OTGS only had semi-finished ones that required align-boring. I did manage to find some Durabond OP-3 bearings but it took weeks. If I had to do it again I would avoid this problem.
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Old 11-25-2008   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by CDN OpelNut View Post
I used a delta head in my rebuild before I knew any better. The early heads are strong but finding bearings for the delta head is a pain. At the time OTGS only had semi-finished ones that required align-boring. I did manage to find some Durabond OP-3 bearings but it took weeks. If I had to do it again I would avoid this problem.
Yes, I remember reading about this in the threads about heads. I am thinking if one of the Delta heads is in good condition and does not need new cam bearings, then it might be ok to use it. If I had to replace the cam bearings, it could be troublesome.
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Old 11-26-2008   #6 (permalink)
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Uh...doing a rebuild and half-assing the cam bearings is a recipe for disaster. Just do the project right. Use the 71 head and have new seats put in it. I had the intakes and exhaust done.

Better to do it right than doing it again.
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Old 11-26-2008   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by opelwasp View Post
Uh...doing a rebuild and half-assing the cam bearings is a recipe for disaster. Just do the project right. Use the 71 head and have new seats put in it. I had the intakes and exhaust done.

Better to do it right than doing it again.
Interesting point of view, but why replace the bearings if they are ok? I will measure them of course. Same with the valve seats.
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Old 11-26-2008   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by gtblast View Post
Keith, where would the 69 Delta heads be marked with the "H"? I will look them over again tomorrow, but as I recall, on the machined pad it only had the Delta triangle and 19.
Fred
If it was an "H" head it would be stamped beside the 19 on the side of the head.

Harold
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Old 11-26-2008   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr View Post
If it was an "H" head it would be stamped beside the 19 on the side of the head.

Harold
Thanks Harold. I assumed that would be the case, but just wanted someone to verify it. I am pretty sure there is no "H" on these heads, but I will check tomorrow.
Fred
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Old 11-26-2008   #10 (permalink)
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Dan don't say anything at all.
Ok Dan I'll try not to.
Your seats are perfectly in line with the valves right?
Dan I asked you not to say anything
Sorry Dan I forgot.
Can I say anything about the cam bearings?
No Dan stay out of it
Ok Dan
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Old 11-26-2008   #11 (permalink)
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Reasons ...

Originally Posted by gtblast View Post
...It appears the best head is a 1971 10 bolt head with 4 cam bearings.

Is it worth using the finned pan in an effort to keep the engine oil cooler?
Fred
The 4-cam-brng head is only 'better' than the 3-c-brng head ... because of the extra cam bearing. Yes, you can use the 3-brng cam in it by turing the appropriate bearing to block the oil hole - but may as well use the 3-brng '69 heads. Make your choice on condition of the valve guides and seats - the number of bearings is irrelevant with the 3-bearing solid lifter cam!
Save the 'good' 4-brng head for use with a high-lift 'hot' cam.

I suspect the 'fins' are there more as a protection for the deeper part of the pan and to increase the clamping of the front end seal than for 'cooling'.
Ali pans sound like good ideas - till you bash one on a traffic island and dump all the oil from the cracks .... put a skid plate underneath if you use one!
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Old 11-26-2008   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wrench459 View Post
Dan don't say anything at all.
Ok Dan I'll try not to.
Your seats are perfectly in line with the valves right?
Dan I asked you not to say anything
Sorry Dan I forgot.
Can I say anything about the cam bearings?
No Dan stay out of it
Ok Dan
Ok Dan, thanks for the humor, and your points are well taken. I haven't even started on these heads or taken a serious look at them yet, but I will check all these things and make the corrections needed of course.
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Old 11-26-2008   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by GTJIM View Post
The 4-cam-brng head is only 'better' than the 3-c-brng head ... because of the extra cam bearing. Yes, you can use the 3-brng cam in it by turing the appropriate bearing to block the oil hole - but may as well use the 3-brng '69 heads. Make your choice on condition of the valve guides and seats - the number of bearings is irrelevant with the 3-bearing solid lifter cam!
Save the 'good' 4-brng head for use with a high-lift 'hot' cam.

I suspect the 'fins' are there more as a protection for the deeper part of the pan and to increase the clamping of the front end seal than for 'cooling'.
Ali pans sound like good ideas - till you bash one on a traffic island and dump all the oil from the cracks .... put a skid plate underneath if you use one!
GTJIM,
Thanks so much for the advice. At this time, I have no plans for a "hot" cam in this engine and will most likely use one of the original solid cams. That said, I will take your advice and save the 4 bearing head for a later build up. I am getting a bit ahead of myself as I have not had any of these heads magnafluxed yet.

As for the aluminum pans, I am thinking I am less likely to strike something with the smooth pan than the one with the fin hanging down, so it may be safer to go with the non finned pan.
Fred
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Old 12-12-2008   #14 (permalink)
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From European perspective it is interesting to follow these head related threads. People here are not exactly discussing about the same topics like you here, since the head selection in Europe is greater (I believe) thus giving more topics to chat about.

As for the head markings, I have not seen or heard nobody stating something what I could consider as a final factory truth. However, many people share this understanding at least in Finland about the markings and their meanings

delta = head for solid lifters

X = head for hydraulic lifters

P = head for unleaded gasoline with hardened seats. Guess all 2.2 heads are
P22 marked, some late edition 2.0 heads from mid/late eighties are also P20 marked.

H or HL after 19 stands for head from Sprint engine (9.5 compression, smaller chamber, produced 1967-71)

E after 2 or 20 or 19 stands for head from injection "E for Einspritzung" engines (9.4 compression, smaller combustion chamber)

The race people try to locate heads with XR2EH markings. These are rare and said to be manufactured for racing applications. They are of excellent casting and have thick walls you can mold almost as you like.

Just wonder how different this marking list is compared to US spec engines, many of them being low-comp and designed for unleaded fuel.
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Old 12-12-2008   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Petri H View Post
From European perspective it is interesting to follow these head related threads. People here are not exactly discussing about the same topics like you here, since the head selection in Europe is greater (I believe) thus giving more topics to chat about.

As for the head markings, I have not seen or heard nobody stating something what I could consider as a final factory truth. However, many people share this understanding at least in Finland about the markings and their meanings

delta = head for solid lifters

X = head for hydraulic lifters

P = head for unleaded gasoline with hardened seats. Guess all 2.2 heads are
P22 marked, some late edition 2.0 heads from mid/late eighties are also P20 marked.

H or HL after 19 stands for head from Sprint engine (9.5 compression, smaller chamber, produced 1967-71)

E after 2 or 20 or 19 stands for head from injection "E for Einspritzung" engines (9.4 compression, smaller combustion chamber)

The race people try to locate heads with XR2EH markings. These are rare and said to be manufactured for racing applications. They are of excellent casting and have thick walls you can mold almost as you like.

Just wonder how different this marking list is compared to US spec engines, many of them being low-comp and designed for unleaded fuel.

Thanks for your input. In my very limited experience, I have also found that all the delta heads are soild lifter and all the X heads are hydraulic. I have not seen the others yet.
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Old 12-12-2008   #16 (permalink)
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Has any one seen a 1.9/10 bolt head 4 bearing with "XSS" stamped on it. I have the delta19, the X19A, and the 19H heads but curious about the "XSS" 10 bolt head. Or is it just a plain (a) _ss head?
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Old 12-12-2008   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Petri H View Post
The race people try to locate heads with XR2EH markings. These are rare and said to be manufactured for racing applications. They are of excellent casting and have thick walls you can mold almost as you like.

Just wonder how different this marking list is compared to US spec engines, many of them being low-comp and designed for unleaded fuel.
I have one of these special 2.0 heads, I got it years ago from Sweden (new in box). Yes it has thicker ports, and it has an odd combustion chamber. It is shaped like the old 1.9 heads, not like 2.0 heads, and the head has been planed 1 mm from Opel (as delivered). The ports have better shape too, especially around the guides, and they flow a little better than normal 2.0 heads too.

Here in the US you must remember we only had three engines really. 1.5S (model year 1968 only), 1.9S (1968-1970), 1.9US (1971-1975). In 1975 (last year Opel was imported), the 1.9US had Bosch L-Jetronic EFI.

Hp ratings:
1.5S - 80 SAE 'gross' hp
1.9S - 102 SAE 'gross' hp (90 PS/88 SAE net hp)
1.9US - (1971-1972) 78 SAE 'net' hp, (1973-1974) 75 SAE 'net' hp
1975 only - 80 SAE 'net' hp

However, some early Kadett B and GT models had the 1.9H cylinder head fitted.

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