Oil in Carb/Weber Airfilter pan

[First opel 1981]

I'll actually be installing a pan-e-vac system on my Kadett on Friday, hopefully, to deal with my own blow-by issues. I'll take pics if anyone wants me to.

I thought pan-e-vac systems were only recommended for racing vehicles. I had heard, somewhere, that they weren't recommended for daily drivers.

Am I wrong?

[hrcollinsjr]

I thought pan-e-vac systems were only recommended for racing vehicles. I had heard, somewhere, that they weren't recommended for daily drivers.

Am I wrong?

I think high RPM engines are the only ones that really benefit. I don't know if they'd be detrimental to a street engine or not.

Harold

[oldopelguy]

Mostly it just gets the oil mist in the tail pipe instead of the carb, and while it's not so environmentally friendly it shouldn't hurt anything the way I'm doing it.

[74MantaRay]

I'll actually be installing a pan-e-vac system on my Kadett on Friday, hopefully, to deal with my own blow-by issues. I'll take pics if anyone wants me to.

That will be appreciated.

Harold, thanks for the link it really helped.

[dcm013]

Thanks Harold for the PCV link, but be assured that I am pulling the gases from the crankcase hose into my cold air intake assembly through the weber throat and out of my exhaust. Would that not be the same at idle or open throttle??

Don,
What is "the Make Up Air"??

If all you do is pull air/vapors out, your crankcase will run at a vacuum won't it? At least up to the level of vacuum you're pulling on it through the carb. You've got to let air in if you want to pull vapors out, right?

And do you really want to pull those oily vapors into the nice clean throat of that Weber? They don't exactly just "go out the exhaust" - they're pulled into the manifold to the combustion chambers and burnt, same as when they're pulled into the manifold by the small vacuum hose.

Opel designed the engine with a positive crankcase ventilation system operating as described earlier. Why would you not want to run the system as it was designed?

Don

[hrcollinsjr]

And do you really want to pull those oily vapors into the nice clean throat of that Weber? They don't exactly just "go out the exhaust" - they're pulled into the manifold to the combustion chambers and burnt, same as when they're pulled into the manifold by the small vacuum hose. Don

Unless it has a lot of blowby, I wouldn't worry about it going through my nice clean Weber. I would be surprised if it had any effect on horsepower. Any time we can do something for the environment and there are NO negatives then it should be a no brainer as to whether to do it or not, no matter how insignificant it may seem. IMHO

Harold

[AZManta]

As some of the other "Opelers" have stated, the small hose needs to direct vacuum from the intake manifold to the valve cover. If it doesn't your crankcase (engine) will be pressurized leading to oil consumption through leaks or burning.
The port that the hose connects to on the intake manifold is actually a restrictor that easily plugs up. Clean it with a wire, carb cleaner and compressed air and do it at each tune-up. Also, if the hose is pushed into the valve cover too far it will get closed off, the same is true for the large hose. The original factory hoses had clips to prevent this.
A properly functioning PCV system will have a small amount of measureable vacuum. You should be able to lay a sheet of paper on top of the oil fill on the valve cover at idle without it flying away if all is well.
Tom

[wrench459]

Humm Whats the difference between the octane numbers of motor oil vs gasoline?
I'll keep the oil vapors far away from the intake.
But I've got a lead foot and dont need the GT to pass emissions testing.

[74MantaRay]

Compression is usually measured in PSI. Do you know if your engine is a high or low compression engine?
An engine is going to typically show a rich condition if it hasn't been run long enough to burn the plugs clean. When you're serious about reading plugs you actually cut the engine off at speed to give a more accurate reading of what is going on.

Harold

I've read some threads and done some research and found this....

The engine is High Compression - Flat top pistons + according to engine number on block.
The compression here in South Africa is normally measured in kPa or bar. The tester I used, used the kPa measurement.
1 Bar = 100 kPa = .1 mPa ~. 9869 Atm ~ 14.5 PSI
1 kPa = .01 Bar = .001 mPa ~ .009869 Atm ~ .145 PSI
So if I calculated correctly it ran between:
8 BAR = 800kPa = 116psi
&
9 BAR 900kPa = 130.5psi
If I understood correctly this is ok for the motor, right? If not it means I will have to open the motor...
I'll have to do some more reading regarding the spark plugs to understand.

[hrcollinsjr]

I've read some threads and done some research and found this....

The engine is High Compression - Flat top pistons + according to engine number on block.
The compression here in South Africa is normally measured in kPa or bar. The tester I used, used the kPa measurement.
1 Bar = 100 kPa = .1 mPa ~. 9869 Atm ~ 14.5 PSI
1 kPa = .01 Bar = .001 mPa ~ .009869 Atm ~ .145 PSI
So if I calculated correctly it ran between:
8 BAR = 800kPa = 116psi
&
9 BAR 900kPa = 130.5psi
If I understood correctly this is ok for the motor, right? If not it means I will have to open the motor...
I'll have to do some more reading regarding the spark plugs to understand.

Now that I understand what unit of measure you're using, I'm okay. I guess two things are in order. One, that the pressure is consistent across all four cylinders. Two, I would expect that kind of pressure on a low compression ratio engine. I would expect something more in the range of a 10 to 11 BAR reading on a high compression engine. Bring one of the pistons up to top dead center and peek in a spark plug hole and you should be able to see if the piston top is dished or flat.

HTH,
Harold

[wrench459]

This compression sounds like a static test.
Could you post a running test? We need to take into account the cam.
I'm working off 14.7= 100 kpa @ sea level