Ascona/Manta Oil Pan Removal . . .

[tekenaar]

. . . can oil pan be removed with engine still installed in either Ascona or Manta? Engine need to be raised for clearance? Are all rod bolts accessible once pan is out?

. . . easier just to ask for previous experiences because I'm looking for possible alternatives to any "FSM method" mentioned . . . like dropping front end down for pan clearance, would rather NOT do this if possible!

[Bill Hoffmann]

Originally Posted by tekenaar . . . can oil pan be removed with engine still installed in either Ascona or Manta? Engine need to be raised for clearance? Are all rod bolts accessible once pan is out? . . . easier just to ask for previous experiences because I'm looking for possible alternatives to any "FSM method" mentioned . . . like dropping front end down for pan clearance, would rather NOT do this if possible!

I feel your pain, but while it might be possible, by the time you do all the necessary maneuvering it will probably be easier to bite the bullet and get the front end out of your way. One annoyance is that the brake lines/hoses loop through the suspension. It would be nice if you didn't have to disturb the brakes for this job.

Bill

[First opel 1981]

It is MUCH easier to remove the engine than to pull the front suspension.
Having said that, it is possible to remove the oil pan without removing the engine. The trick is to get the pan to clear the sump. You can actually unbolt the sump from the block (assuming the sump support is of the clamp type and not spot welded) while the pan is still under the engine but bolting it back up will be a HUGE pain.

Personally, I would bite the bullet and pull the engine out. It's a mere couple hour job and you can inspect all kinds of things with the engine out.

[Bill Hoffmann]

Originally Posted by First opel 1981 It is MUCH easier to remove the engine than to pull the front suspension. Having said that, it is possible to remove the oil pan without removing the engine. The trick is to get the pan to clear the sump. You can actually unbolt the sump from the block (assuming the sump support is of the clamp type and not spot welded) while the pan is still under the engine but bolting it back up will be a HUGE pain. Personally, I would bite the bullet and pull the engine out. It's a mere couple hour job and you can inspect all kinds of things with the engine out.

I agree with you on the pain of reinstalling the oil pan, having done it recently. You have to get four pieces of gasket to stay in place, and the last thing you need is an oil leak when it's all done. I did it with the suspension out, and wouldn't think about trying it otherwise. I was successful by the way - no more leaks!

However, in my opinion, it's an easier job to remove the suspension than the engine, and faster, too when it's all said and done. (If you have access to a lift, I could see your argument.) It all depends on what other work you might want to do at the same time. It sounds to me like we're talking about a minimally invasive procedure here, and that's why I would recommend doing it (and did it) this way.

Bill

[2 Fast 4 U]

Otto it is NOT possible to remove the oil pan with the engine still in the car, even if you hoist the engine out of the mounts there is still not enough space to remove the pan, I tried to do so when I wanted to check the bearings from the crankshaft of my 2.0 engine, had to take the engine out to remove the pan.

Even eazier is to take the engine and trans out at the same time, it's faster to re-attach the hood than to remove and refasten the bolts on the trans. don't ask me how I know

[Bill Hoffmann]

Originally Posted by 2 Fast 4 U Otto it is NOT possible to remove the oil pan with the engine still in the car, even if you hoist the engine out of the mounts there is still not enough space to remove the pan.

I still think it might be possible, but you would have to hoist the engine off the mounts as well as lower the suspension as much as possible by removing the nuts from the subframe mounts.

I still would prefer the underside access gained by removing the suspension. The way you do it is like the shop manual shows - build a wooden bridge with hooks and chains to support the engine.

I think you are glossing over all the little things like hood removal and realignment, center console and gearshift r&r, possible drive shaft removal, hoses and wiring, accelerator linkage, radiator, etc. All of these things add up. The suspension is eleven bolts, plus however you deal with the brakes, whether by separating the hoses from the lines, or unbolting the calipers and upper ball joint to snake them out.

Dennis at OGTS demonstrated a relatively painless 'out the top' method, and I was impressed, but he also had a lift, which I don't.

Bill

[2 Fast 4 U]

Originally Posted by Bill Hoffmann ....hood removal and realignment.....

a little tip: drill two holes in each hinge mount [before taking the hood off] so you can stick a bolt or something else in the holes so you don't have to realign hood

[dallasmanta]

Otto did it both ways when i put in a rebuilt High compression engine I bought locally before Christmas. This motor had the Aluminum pan that leaked when i fired the motor up. I could not get enough lift on the engine in the engine bay to allow enough room to replace the 4 gasket pieces effectively. Ended up dropping the front suspension which was a piece of cake and gave just enough room to do the job right the second time. Ron

[AZManta]

It is much easier to drop the front suspension than to remove the engine in a Manta.
I know from experience. I had the front suspension out in less than an hour several years ago. Here's how:
1. Safely support the car at the front jack points high enough to slide-out the suspension.
2. Remove the bolt that secures the steering shaft at the rack.
3. Remove the nuts on the motor mounts.
4. Support the front of the engine securely at the oil pump.
5. Disconnect the brake hoses at the body brackets.
6. Remove the heat shield from the right side body sway bar mount.
7. Remove the bolts (left & right)that secure the sway bar to the body.
8. Remove the nuts (left & right) that secure the crossmember to the body and carefully lower the suspension away from the body while sliding the steering shaft out.
To reinstall make sure you bleed the front brakes.