4 core Radiator

[GT Tim]

I was wondering what the going price for a 4 core in a GT is?I took my radiator to my local shop to check out a 3 core.He told me the 4 was much better and told me $297 out the door in 3 days.I was wondering if this is good or am I in store for a hoseing?OGTS sells a cooling setup for around $500,so I figured can't be too bad.Thanks Tim

[blancojp]

We pay approx. $250 for a 4-core radiator to a shop in Wildwood, Fla.
However we tend to move inlets and outlets around to suit the engine we put in. This price is only for a manual transmision unit.

[tom_laan]

how about the performance radiator Suselbeek sells? it's 200 euro's.

link to suselbeek
maybe this is an option.

tom

[calvin]

it was 220 out the door for a 4 core in st louis for a 4spd manta

[soybean]

I paid $250 for a 3 core, so the extra $47 isn't too bad. Make sure to get them, if you use them, to put a petcock in. Lower left on drivers side on mine. Beats dumping it all on the ground, ecology minded of course, saves your antifreeze too. Hth, Jarrell

[GT Tim]

Thanks for the feedback.Sounds like I am not grabbing my ankles on this one.I should have it Friday.I will have the petcock put in as well.Thanks again Tim

[lewdawg]

Glad to hear you aren't grabbing your ankles Tim!!! Western radiator in Ogden will be building my new radiator this fall. How close are you to streetability?

[GT Tim]

Yes,I am quite happy with that.I am also running a pressure bottle from OGTS.The shop called today and said it was done.My car should be done in a month or so.Work has been slammed.One guy on vacation another blew his back out.Just not enough hours in a day.I probably get about a hour to 2 a day on my GT.How about yours Mark?

[ddoyle]

For anyone that wants to know, when talking about a radiator, a core is the complete assesembly minus the tanks and brackets. It doesn't matter if it has 1 or 10 rows of tubes. Not really any such a thing as a 3 or 4 core, yes everyone will know what you mean. It used to make us radiator men snicker(under our breath of course!), "I put a big ol 4 core in it". The correct wording would be, I went from a 3 row core to a 4 row core. Not trying to be fussy or picky, just spreading info, don't want anyone snickering at a fellow Opeler!!

Dan

[GT Tim]

Thanks,I would rather be informed than incompetent.So he called it a 4 core high density so that I would understand.

[lewdawg]

Tim, my car will be receiving it's new engine this winter after it gets painted. As soon as it turns cold I will be turning it over to the guy and he will have it until he is done. I figure two or three months since he does it on the side. I have just about everything for the rebuild of my engine except the gasket kit. 2.0 liter pistons and rings, bearings, and the lanier head sitting on the shelf complete with cam and lifters. I will probably buy a new cam chain tensioner kit and oil pump cover from OGTS as well. The 5 speed trans and s-10 clutch set up is sitting in the shop as well. Will be taking the block down to be bored in the next couple of weeks and also get the rods checked and new pistons pressed on the rods. Once that is all done I will be taking the rotating assembly down to be balanced. Then it is assembly time. My GT should be in pretty good shape come next spring. Can't wait to see yours... Later

[Paul]

Originally Posted by lewdawg and also get the rods checked and new pistons pressed on the rods. Once that is all done I will be taking the rotating assembly down to be balanced.

The same shop that will be balancing the rotating assembly really should be the same people to assemble the rods and pistons. Usually they prefer to check the balance of each of the rods end for end, then weight match the pistons and the pins before assembling.

Its also a good idea at this time to recondition the big end of the rod. This is easliy done if the shop has all the pertinate dimensional data.

Hey, if you are doing some of it might as well do all of it......

*****Oh yea, one more thing.... the correct way to insert the wrist pin into the small end of the rod it to heat small end of the rod up first. This way the pin can't gall the inside of the rod and destroy the "press fit".

****According to the Machinist Bible/ Machinery Handbook.... A "shirik fit" is 3.66 times stronger than a "press fit" (of the same dimensions) for axial loads and 3.2 times stronger for torsion loads...........

end of today's lesson

[lewdawg]

Thanks for the advice Paul, Yes the same machine shop is doing all the work. I guess I split it up in my post because financially that is what I will be doing. Boring the block is $80 and resizing the rods and pressing (heated to install) the new pistons on will be around $30 so thats not too bad but balancing was quoted at around $250 to $300 so I will have to budget for that. That seems to be a little steep to me but then again it has been years since I had an engine balanced.

[Paul]

Originally Posted by lewdawg Thanks for the advice Paul, Yes the same machine shop is doing all the work. I guess I split it up in my post because financially that is what I will be doing. Boring the block is $80 and resizing the rods and pressing (heated to install) the new pistons on will be around $30 so thats not too bad but balancing was quoted at around $250 to $300 so I will have to budget for that. That seems to be a little steep to me but then again it has been years since I had an engine balanced.

Last time I had it(the rotating assembly balanced) done was 3 years ago, $150...

[RallyBob]

Locally it costs between $120-$140 to balance the flywheel, pulley, and crankshaft. Rods and pistons cost a bit more, but I have a connecting rod scale so I do that myself. Takes about an hour of my time to balance 4 rods end-to-end, and to balance 4 pistons, so it's time well-spent IMO.

Bob