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#1 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Barrington, Rhode Island
Posts: 46
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Unanswered: Cannot pull radiator out
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Southern Red Neck
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Snellville, GA
Posts: 6,027
Real Name: Gene
![]() ![]() Provided Answers: 12
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There's also a brace that connects the bottom of the radiator to the front suspension cross member. You'll have to get up under the car to take the one bolt loose.
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"Yes, I do have a rifle rack in my Sportwagon" |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: CO
Posts: 25
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Went through the same frustration a few months ago...
The rubber bumpers at the top are not bolted in, they just sit in the cradles on the car. Like BQ said, it's a pain, but you have to get up over the front suspension and get that bracket removed. Then the radiator will lift straight out. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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1000 Post Club
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Salfordville, PA
Posts: 2,143
Real Name: Jeff
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The shroud is attached at 4 points to the radiator. You must remove the shroud screws(2 on each side of the radiator) otherwise the shroud will hit the fan and prevent you from removing the radiator. Once the radiator is out, then you can remove the shroud, the fan and then the waterpump. Remember there is one bolt on the waterpump right near the crank pully. Either remove the crank pully or get a small wrench in there to get that bolt out. HTH
Jeff
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1972 Opel GT, Owner since 1983 2001 Saab 9-5 SE 3.0 Turbo V6 Weeeeeeeeeee!!! 1973 GT, Parted out, R.I.P. 1968 Kadette, Owner since 2006, Sold, 28 June 2008 |
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#7 (permalink) |
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6,000 Post Club
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Imperial Beach, CA South of San Diego
Posts: 6,054
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If the rubber bumpers on the radiator are old and cracked appearing, you may have to do some surgery on them to remove the radiator. OGTS has replacements. Maybe a penetrant will make them pliable enuff to remove the radiator. I had the same problem on Willit? and when I jerked up on the radiator, one of the rubber pieces flew out of the engine bay, the other sheared in two.
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Ron 72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed. ![]() 75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next |
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#9 (permalink) |
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2200 Post Club
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Chapel Hill, TN
Posts: 2,266
Real Name: Harold Collins
![]() ![]() Provided Answers: 14
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Skip,
I didn't notice that anyone mentioned this but I've seen the tabs on either side of the rubber bumper mounts on the sides of the radiator bent in order to better secure them to the mounts. This can also cause it to be tough to pull the radiator out. Harold |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Barrington, Rhode Island
Posts: 46
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I was able to pull the radiator out. It was the rubber bumper mounts that were snug. I was able to replace the water pump too. Upon driving it though, there are two noises that concern me a little.
First – the belt is squeaking when accelerating in first and down shifting and I think a little when cruising in 4th. I do not believe I spilled anything on the belt. Could it be too loose or tight? Could the fan be on to tight? Second: I think the pulley (or belt) is making a noise that sounds like slate rubbing together but with the cadence or beat of a cricket. I don’t know how else to describe. Could something be too lose or tight? Thanks for all your help so far! I could not have accomplished what I did with out it. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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1000 Post Club
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Salfordville, PA
Posts: 2,143
Real Name: Jeff
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Sounds like your water pump pully is hitting your water pump. Take the belt off and spin the water pump. This will tell you if there is any interference. It should spin freely when there is no anti-freeze in it. If you have coolant, you should be able to spin it without hearing any noise.
I can't recall if there are any spacers in there or not. Someone else will have to chime in on that. HTH Jeff
__________________
1972 Opel GT, Owner since 1983 2001 Saab 9-5 SE 3.0 Turbo V6 Weeeeeeeeeee!!! 1973 GT, Parted out, R.I.P. 1968 Kadette, Owner since 2006, Sold, 28 June 2008 |
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#12 (permalink) |
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2200 Post Club
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Chapel Hill, TN
Posts: 2,266
Real Name: Harold Collins
![]() ![]() Provided Answers: 14
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On some applications the fan bolts may be too long and hit the pump. Have you checked the clearance between the fan and the shroud? I recently found out the hard way they can come into contact with each other.
Harold |
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#13 (permalink) |
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opel free after 26 years
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: sunderland england
Posts: 4,939
Real Name: barry williams
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may be a silly question but did you put the fan back on the right war around?
the point 1 sounds like just a loose belt but point 2 sounds like the fan could be rubbing on the rad or shroud if its the wrong way around (curve of blade runs the same way as engine so leading edge of blades are to the right and front if looking from the front of engine and the blade has a bend going from bottom left to top right with high part to top left when looking side on to the blade, if its to bottom right then fan is on wrong ) excuse drawring but you see what i mean ps for my own comfort and to save embarrassment please dont ask why i know this can happen
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Copyright © 2003-2009 barry williams All Rights Reserved save praying to God for sunday today we pray to Nike and run like hell Last edited by baz; 09-07-2006 at 09:30 PM. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Barrington, Rhode Island
Posts: 46
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So the belt was loose and all noises have stopped! I need to confess that the old fan belt was somehow forgotten in the engine compartment. Whoops. As for the backwards fan, I believe it is on correctly but I will check during lunch to be sure. Thanks again everyone!
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