Water Pump Question

[SSGDirk]

Does anyone know of any other water pumps that will fit a 1.9L? I was thinking of switching from a mechanical to a electric water pump. Any help would be appreciated.

[BQS4]

There are only two water pumps for the 1.9, one is up to the 74 models, then there's the pump for the 75 F.I. models. The 75 pump has the pulley permanently attached, and has a clutch fan. You can swap to the 75, but, you would need to get the fan. Or you can use the more common 74 and older pump, leave the fixed fan off, and switch to a thermostatically controlled electric fan. There's threads on it here on the site, use the search feature.

[yellaopelgt]

If you do a search.....I believe there is a pump for the Opel that actually flows a bit better than the other. But you must grind down the center for clearance on the timing cover. I forget the details.....but I have one on my car. I'll see if I can dig up the info on it.
Joe

[kwilford]

Originally Posted by SSGDirk Does anyone know of any other water pumps that will fit a 1.9L? I was thinking of switching from a mechanical to a electric water pump. Any help would be appreciated.

Electric water pump? I believe it's been done, but not commonly, and nothing "off the shelf" such as you might find for a small block Chevy. I think Summit Racing and other race part shops sell units that "install in line" that might work. You would still have to leave the old water pump housing in place (removing the impeller, blocking of the shaft hole). More typically (and described above) the mechanical fan is replaced with an electric unit. Why do you want an electrical water pump?

[SSGDirk]

Why would I want electric water pump? Easy, by switching to electric water pump, fuel pump and fan, I should be able to pick up some decent horse power. Anything that you can replace that doesn't use the engine to power adds horse power. I'm surprised more of us aren't trying to do it.

[bgdowski]

I think if you are gonna go through all the trouble of fabricating modifications to the water pump, you might as well just go with a modifications that will give you noticable increases, at the same cost of converting to an electric water pump. I would more readily put my time into a pointsless ignition, cam, a weber carb, a header, ect.

An electric fan is a great idea, alot of people do it on all kinds of cars, not just opels. Electric fuel pumps, another good idea, not as common though. Im not trying to be rude here, but dont you think that if an electric water pump conversion boasted noticable gains for time/money invested that people would have been all over it by now?

[73Manta72gt]

Remember that electricity isn't free as you draw more current from the alternator it gets harder to turn. The electric fan makes sense, because most of the time the fan is off. The water pump has to run all the time

[jeff denton]

In any racing situation where you need absolute 100% of the power you can possibly make to actually go to the wheels, the electric water pump is the norm. It's been the ticket in drag racing for a long time now. I'd have done it to my GT if I thought I could get away with it. The pump on my friend's Bonneville lakester is perfect. It is an inline, high temp, 12V pump. Seems to work fine in that application.
If you really want to do this, the pumps I saw a few years ago in school buses would be perfect. There they are used to help circulate hot water from the engine to the heaters. Talk to a bus mechanic, he should be able to show you one.
Yes your alternator has to run it. But some of us don't use alternators. We don't need one if the car only runs a few minutes at a time. For continuous use, a real fart smeller could have his alternator rigged up to cut out at wide open throttle. Letting the battery power everything for a short time could save you a BUNCH of horsepower!
Remember some time ago when we were BS-ing about the ultimate Opel race engine. I pointed out that the CIH engine with dry sump oiling, crank triggered ignition and electric water pump no longer needs most of that now-unavailable chunk of aluminum on the front of the engine. It's function becomes only a timing chain cover and tensioner.

[wrench459]

The lead/acid battery its only purpose in life is to handle the high current demands of the starter. After the motor is started why not use a different battery technology to handle the low current of the ignition and cooling?
IMOO dump the heavy battery,alternator if the rules let you. Look at "NATO" standards for jumper cables.

[yellaopelgt]

So.....I guess the next question would be.....is this for a street application. Or are are you plannning on driving this car on Sundays???In a straight line!!!!
From what I understand from the other thread, you plan on actually having this car as a driver.........
If your lookin for HP as a driver I think you should'nt go overboard. Being used to v-8's, 1.9's and small blocks are 2 entirerly different animals.
As said before..... a GT is a curve carver.A performance vehicle,unless you have the capability to drop in a 6 popper($$$$$) and lose some of that performance you wont get what you seek. Its a horse a piece(pun)
Joe

[SSGDirk]

My GT is my toy. Right now I'm planning everything out, I have till DEC to decide what I want to do. I'm just looking at my options. I have a Cobalt and a couple Harleys to drive daily. This is for when I just want to get out and have some fun.

Now, if I took a 5 HP increase on a 300HP V8 you wouldn't notice anything. But a five horse power increase on a 75HP CIH, now that you would notice. I am just looking at diff ways at increaseing the HP of a CIH.

First thing I'm doing once the car gets delivered is the motor is going in to get rebuilt. I'm planning on keeping the compression low, This will allow me to use a forced induction system. Not sure what yet, but keeping my options open. Then I will pull the Fuel pump, OGTS has an electric for $250 if I remember correctly, Summit has one for $80. I'm putting in an electric fan and replacing the radiator. I'm replacing the ignition system with a pointless. And hanving a new header and exhasut made for it.

Look, I'm not looking to make a speed demon. I'm not into driving like a mad man or driving super fast. Everyone here has been doing things to customise their cars. This is just what I want to do to customise mine. About 15 years ago I had a Trans Am that I loved more than life itself. I sold it to go back to Germany and be with my now wife. I have been searching for the feeling that I had with my T/A. I think I may have found it in this GT.

I may not be doing what you would do, hell I'm not doing anything yet (Iraq sucks), but when I get back I will build it to run how I want it to run. Oh and when an generator puts out power, it really doesn't matter if you are drawing 1amp or 50amps, the engine is working the same regardless.

Oh and I don't know if any on has messed with this, do a search on google for "HHO". I was talking with a guy from TACOM (civilian here to assist us) and he is using a HHO system on his car back home he claims a 10 MPG increase on his car. Just thought you guys might be interested.

[SSGDirk]

Hey what about this?
Proform 66235B - Proform Universal Electric Water Pump Drive Kits - summitracing.com

Any one have any experiance with these?

[namba209]

That may be feasible, but you have to build your own brackets to make it work. The "Gilmer" belt drive and attached pulley to the water pump may end up being too close to the radiator for it to fit, then again maybe not. You'd have to get one to be sure. Working with prototypes is not cheap, I found that out on mine.

[SSGDirk]

Well I found a 16" electric fan that pushes around 4000 CFM. That would replace the stock fan. That should give me enough clearance. I am just not sure where to bolt it on the engine.
Man I can't wait till it getss delivered so I can get some better picks. Trying to plan and buy the stuff I want from this crap hole sucks.

[BQS4]

Originally Posted by SSGDirk I am just not sure where to bolt it on the engine.

Try the passenger side, down low. There's 3 threaded bolt holes already there for what would have been an a/c bracket. That will give you a start.

[namba209]

Gene's got the bolt holes for your bracket. Your fan may still have to be put on the front of the radiator in pusher mode so you'll lose about 20% of the 4000 rated CFM, still more than enuff to cool it down.

[RallyBob]

Here are a few alternatives for electric water pumps.

Jeg's remote electric pump

Meziere inline electric water pumps

Dedenbear remote electric pump

Aerospace Components remote electric water pump

I have one of the Aerospace Components pumps for my Manta racecar. It had the highest flow rates for the money. One thing to consider is that the remote pump adds a lot more complexity and potential leak points under the hood, as well as more weight than stock. And you have to either 'gut out' a stock water pump or fabricate a flat cover plate with an outlet fitting to install it. The pump I bought draws a full 8 amps, most other pumps draw 10 or more amps. So the electrical loads will be greater than usual. The Opel's 35 amp alternator may not be happy with this if you are using your high beams, aftermarket stereo and rear defroster all at once!

I only went this route because of the high HP my racecar will have and the issues with turbo heat soak when pulling off the track to grid.

I have a friend with the Meziere pump, and it works okay on lower HP engines, but on his 300 whp Subaru it runs a bit warm still, especially at higher rpms. But should be fine for any sub-200 hp engine, and it's cheaper than most pumps.

Bob