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6C - Fuel System Solex, Weber conversions, Fuel Injection, Fuel Pumps, etc.

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Old 07-31-2006   #1 (permalink)
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Unhappy Unanswered: Carb not getting fuel

My 71 GT died on me while driving. It just stalled and won’t start. I sprayed starting fluid in the Webber and it seems to want to start to for a second. I thought it might be the fuel filter so I replaced it. I can see that the fuel is not getting to the filter. The filter is clear - I know the filter isn’t the right one but I wanted to eliminate that as a source so I got the closest one for now. Since the filter doesn’t have gas in it, I don’t believe the carb is getting any gas either. I think it might be the fuel pump. My 71 Opel Factory Service manual isn’t helping because it doesn’t seem to have the layout relative to my car. Any thoughts? Any help would be appreciated - right now the Opel is my primary car!
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Old 07-31-2006   #2 (permalink)
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sounds like the filter sock in the tank has a blockage ,do a search fot filter sock and all will be revealed
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Old 07-31-2006   #3 (permalink)
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Due to the hot weather we have been having, I was suffering from a similiar problem. Not only could the sock be clogged, but you may be experiencing "vapor lock". Mine would sputter and die if I tried to overtake someone on the highway. The fuel filter showed very little fuel. The problem went away as soon as the heat went away. I was told to wrap the fuel line in the plastic wire loom to shield the line from the heat. I haven't done this yet, so I don't know if this will solve the problem. Just a suggestion.
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Old 07-31-2006   #4 (permalink)
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Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pump and see if you have flow from the tank ( make sure you have a catch basin under the line and no open flames or sparks around) If you have flow then then the sock is OK and the fuel pump might be the culprit. If there is NO flow then you sock is clogged- if so then use the search engine to find the directions for permanently removing it( Hard to believe that any GT is out there with the sock still in place) If flow is present before the fuel pump disconnect the fuel line at the carb and do the same while cranking the engine. If no fuel is delivered then you have isolated the problem. Fuel pumps are readily available at OGTS. If fuel IS delivered to the carb then you have still isolated the problem - Carb- Are you running a Solex or a Weber? If Solex- dispose of in the nearest trash pile. If Weber- you might need a re-build. Hope this helps?
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Old 07-31-2006   #5 (permalink)
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vapor lock... no crap? i noticed the car would die from 0 to whatever, though i can over take easily on the high way. feels like its trying to stall, for sure.

any thoughts on installing a pressure guage on the fuel line at the carb? would that tell the truth or not?
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Old 07-31-2006   #6 (permalink)
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Ok - not to ask a stupid question here but is the fuel pump (cylindrical) located in front of the radiator in the same part of the engine compartment as the battery?
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Old 07-31-2006   #7 (permalink)
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no skip its on the lower drivers side of the engine under the distributor
the round thing in the front would be the carbon canister for emissions i think (we dont get them over here so have never seen one)
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Old 07-31-2006   #8 (permalink)
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nope.

thats a collector dooicker for teh vapors.

what you're looking for is just under the distrubitor... distributor.... something. god i should sleep. it should have a brassy color to it. if you follow the fuel line coming from the top of the carb around the front of the engine, and down the side of the distributor (is going to stick with that one) you'll find it. *nodnod*
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Old 07-31-2006   #9 (permalink)
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Finding the fuel pump

Hey Skip,

Remember when we were broken down in Arkansas last winter with that distributor problem? It's the mechanical johnson underneath, held on with two bolts-- the ones I was having great difficulty removing with my frostbitten fingers. I should have made YOU get under there so you'd be able to find the fuel pump now!
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Old 07-31-2006   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info guys - I will follow the line down to the pump and look to see if the fuel is coming from the tank to the pump, then it should be obvious if it is the fuel pump because the fuel filter is dry, no? I wish my book or the documentation on the site had a diagram. In the event that the pump is fine and it is an issue in the sock, what do I do? I read the post on removing the sock but would I need 2 replace the sock or put a filter between the tank and pump? So you think I should just order a fuel pump off OGTS.com now or wait or should I pull it from the parts car? One more thing – can I get an off-the-shelf fuel filter from auto parts store? Any suggestions? PROPEL – I may just run up 128 north and acquire the parts from your yellow car… kidding.
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Old 07-31-2006   #11 (permalink)
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Skip - If it was due to vapor lock, it should start up when it cools off.

If no gas comes out when you disconnect the line from the tank to the fuel pump, the 'sock' in the tank is probably plugged. If you have access to compressed air, you may be able to temporarily clear it by blowing air back to the tank. (have someone listen for bubbling noises in the tank)

BTW, I have several used fuel pumps if needed.
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Old 07-31-2006   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks Gary - I will take you up on that offer thanks! I have a 69 parts car that I might be able to take from so I will check that first. In the mean time I will narrow down the cause if I can.
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Old 07-31-2006   #13 (permalink)
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I'd stay away from used fuel pumps(Sorry Gary, nothing personal). You never know the condition of the diaphram or any of the sealing surfaces. They are only 37.00 new from OGTS. Ensure you have a phenolic spacer between the timing case and fuel pump. If it is missing, they are available at OGTS too.
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Old 07-31-2006   #14 (permalink)
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I may as well just stick a new fuel pump on since they are so cheap, no? Does this phenolic spacer have a different name on OGTS? Is it the "Fuel Spacer 1.5L-2.0L"? Plus, should I place a clear filter between the pump and tank if I do replace it?
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Old 07-31-2006   #15 (permalink)
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The more filters the better- I have one just before the fuel pump and one just before the carb- more filtration is better filtration
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Old 07-31-2006   #16 (permalink)
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Just ordered a couple filters in addition to a fuel pump, spacer, etc. I replace the one before the carb and put one in between the tank and pump. Any preferred placement between tank and pump?
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Old 07-31-2006   #17 (permalink)
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"Documentation" !!

Originally Posted by Skip
I wish my book or the documentation on the site had a diagram. .
Just loaded up this line drawing and pic for another member - 8 hours ago!

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/101091-post16.html

On the subject of vapour lock - this can be reduced by using an low pressure electric fuel pump back by the outlet from the fuel tank.
Watch the bent steel tube fitting that comes out of the tank as it rusts and often breaks off when fitting a filter back there. I think OGTS has a replacement fuel line fitting kit too. The filter needs to be as close to the outlet as possible to stop gunk, water and rust getting into the fuel line or pump. Also it is more easily seen to check for blockage due to the crap that comes out of the tank.
HTH
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Old 07-31-2006   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Skip
Does this phenolic spacer have a different name on OGTS? Is it the "Fuel Spacer 1.5L-2.0L"? Plus, should I place a clear filter between the pump and tank if I do replace it?
Yes that is the name "Fuel Spacer 1.5L-2.0" of the phenolic spacer. Just ask these questions when you call OGTS and they will properly set you up.
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Old 07-31-2006   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by GTJIM
Watch the bent steel tube fitting that comes out of the tank as it rusts and often breaks off when fitting a filter back there. I think OGTS has a replacement fuel line too. HTH
You said a mouthful. A few years ago, I saw my line was "wet" and I touched it and it fell off in my hand. Luckly I only had about 1 gal. of old fuel in the tank. I replaced mine with the OGTS version which was copper. This is one of the things everyone should of replaced by now. If not, do it now. It is too close to the rear muffler

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Old 08-07-2006   #20 (permalink)
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Talking Eureka!

It works! I believe it was the fuel pump. I checked the fuel flow from tank to pump and it was ok. I replaced the fuel pump and added a clear fuel filter just below the pump. I also replaced the filter between the pump and carburetor. I think that some junk from the tank got into the fuel pump a couple months back and caused some intermittent stalling until whatever was in the pump, ultimately killed it. Just speculation.

Huge thanks to everyone for the generous help you gave to me! I could not have fixed it without your advice! As you probably guessed, I never fixed anything on a car before. Ever. I look forward to empowering myself again (with a little help from my friends here). Thanks again!
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Old 08-07-2006   #21 (permalink)
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It works! I believe it was the fuel pump. I checked the fuel flow from tank to pump and it was ok. I replaced the fuel pump and added a clear fuel filter just below the pump. I also replaced the filter between the pump and carburetor. I think that some junk from the tank got into the fuel pump a couple months back and caused some intermittent stalling until whatever was in the pump, ultimately killed it. Just speculation.

Huge thanks to everyone for the generous help you gave to me! I could not have fixed it without your advice! As you probably guessed, I never fixed anything on a car before. Ever. I look forward to empowering myself again (with a little help from my friends here). Thanks again!
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Old 08-07-2006   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jlthunder View Post
You said a mouthful. A few years ago, I saw my line was "wet" and I touched it and it fell off in my hand. Luckly I only had about 1 gal. of old fuel in the tank. I replaced mine with the OGTS version which was copper. This is one of the things everyone should of replaced by now. If not, do it now. It is too close to the rear muffler

Jeff
jeff i hope it is copper look/plated not pure copper
copper vibration work hardens and will split in time
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Old 08-07-2006   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by baz View Post
jeff i hope it is copper look/plated not pure copper
copper vibration work hardens and will split in time
Baz, I do believe it is just plated. The new one I put in Willit? was extremely hard to bend by hand, I didn't have my tube bender then. I think it is good quality steel and plated for corrosion control.
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Old 08-07-2006   #24 (permalink)
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I believe it may be copper. Since it is connected on the outlet side to a rubber tubing, the tubing absorbs all of the vibration. When I cut out the sock this winter, I will let you know what the tube is made of.
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Old 09-11-2006   #25 (permalink)
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I'm just done with replacing the hoses for vents in the back of the car.
The hoses for fuel are replaced also and i used some compressed air to clean the plastic line from the tank to the pump at the bottom of the car.
The filter from the pump is cleaned also.
Now i have a problem
The pump seems to have problems to get the fuel to the carb because the filter at the carb stays dry.
Do i have to fill the line from the pump to the carb by hand?
Is it because there is only about 8 litres in the tank?
Should i start longer (hope not, my battery is gonna be flat)?
Who help me out?
Thx!
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