Drill new holes in 1.9 manifold or 2.2 head??

[2 Fast 4 U]

I actually don't know where to put this.
I'm going to put a carb on my 2.2. I made a template from transparent plastic and noticed, that if I move the the carb manifold up about 10 - 12 mm, the manifold openings match the ports in the 2.2 head.
What to do with the pins that stick out?? Pull them out and drill new holes and put them in there?? Or drill holes in the inlet manifold??
And last but not least: what is better an auto choke that works with cooling liquid, an electric one or rebuild it to manual??

[GTJIM]

Best to weld up and modify the manifold - welding and machining ali is easier and the head will remain standard if you ever change your mind and want to refit the fuel injection ... or find a 'real' 2.2 carb manifold for DSD Webers, for instance.
There also needs to be some extensions welded on to the intake manifold -that stick down like the ones on the FI intake - to stabilize the manifold and allow the bolts to hold it on correctly.

HTH

[opeldean]

i believe I remember the "dapbmw at opetgt.com" sell the maniflod you need.

[jeff denton]

And there was a thread here about this before. I think Bob showed us how this is done.
Would be neat if you really can just buy the right manifold!

[GTJIM]

Would be neat if you really can just buy the right manifold!

Try this site: http://www.dbilas.com/dbilas_eng/index.htm

..and here is the post from the North Am. Distributor:

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/opel-pa...ghlight=dbilas

I have ordered a thermostat housing for my DSD Weber set up - will let you all know of progress.

[2 Fast 4 U]

Well I went and looked thru my spare parts and found a normal intake manifold for a double barrel Solex, drilled two holes in the manifold, and it fits perfect on the 2.2 head!!!! But I'll have to make something so that the M9 bolt covers more of the inlet manifold.
BTW the bolts for the inlet & exhaust manifold are M9 x 1.25 mm and NOT M9 x 1.00 mm as mentioned in one or more topics.
Another problem was the thermostat housing, I found a thermostat housing which is fastened with 2 bolts, I used 1 bolt opening [closest to the carb] and looked where the the other bolt would have to be made, I was lucky it came in a part that was thick enough to make a M8 hole. Now i have to make a back plate, because the thermostat housing sticks about 5 mm further out than the head.

[cristian68rekor]

The 2 holes thermostat housing is designed for 2.o litres CIH engine , you can use this on old 1.9 head after milling one surface chanell ( 5 x 5 mm) in order to assure one comunication between the right water hole and the main water passing. I had the same problem when I had to mount this housing on an old 1.9 head.

Regards ,

[2 Fast 4 U]

I've made the back plate for the thermostat housing today from 5 mm thick brass, I also closed a small opening with some kind of filling compound because the opening had no use any more on the 2.2 head.
Next in line to make is a rest on the outlet manifold for the inlet manifold so that not al the weight is on the manifold.
I'll see if I can make some photo's of what I've been doing!!

[2 Fast 4 U]

Well I made some photo's of the new holes in the inlet manifold [photo #1]
Intake ports about the same size [photo #2]
Flange intake manifold higher, had to cut a little piece of the flange, so the bolt could be placed [photo #3]
Manifold mounted, [need to "torque the manifold up" like Rally Bob did in a collom he wrote photo #4]
Every thing mounted, need to clean the carb, btw [photo #5]

[2 Fast 4 U]

And these are the photo's I made of the backing plate for the thermostat housing [photo #1 & #2]
Extra M8 Hole for fastening the thermostat housing [hole to the far right] notice that the opening in the head is smaller than in the thermostat housing [photo #1 & #3]
The opening I had to close [didn't have any use anymore] in the thermostat housing [photo #4] and at the flange side [photo #5]

[GTJIM]

1) The hole that you have covered is quite important as it allows the water to be circulated back from the water pump and through the engine block before the thermostat opens - when the motor is started cold.
By covering that hole up you may overheat the motor as there will be no water circulation as it warms up till the thermostat opens.
That hole is needed so you will have to drill through your brass plate at an angle to line up the water channel with the thermostat housing.

2) Below is a link to a picture of a 3.0L fuel injection manifold showing the bits sticking down under the intake ports that are needed to get proper clamping and stabilise the manifold on the head. You need to get something like that welded on to your adapted intake manifold too.

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/attachm...achmentid=3845

Here is a link to the interesting Thread that pic comes from:

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/fuel-in...=3.0+injection

HTH

[2 Fast 4 U]

Than there is a small problem, the hole between the two M8 holes doesn't go thru and that is where the chanel goes what I've closed. So I've got two options.
#1 open the passage in the head drill a hole in the brass back plate and remove the stuff I filled.
#2 make a passage in the housing to tha water pump or somewhere.

[RallyBob]

The later EFI engines don't have the recirculation hole drilled through the head. This is why the two-stage thermostats are utilized, with the extra coolant 'bypass' hose. But, you can drill through the existing casting and use the bypass channels like on the older carbureted engines. Or alternatively you can drill/tap into the thermostat housing and the waterpump housing, and run a remote 5/8" line for the bypass.

[2 Fast 4 U]

The later EFI engines don't have the recirculation hole drilled through the head. This is why the two-stage thermostats are utilized, with the extra coolant 'bypass' hose. But, you can drill through the existing casting and use the bypass channels like on the older carbureted engines. Or alternatively you can drill/tap into the thermostat housing and the waterpump housing, and run a remote 5/8" line for the bypass.

measure the hole and see what wil fit for a plug, do I have to drill strate, under an angle and do I have to completly remove the material blocking the passage??

But where do I tap into the waterpump housing, if I want to go with the other option??
The remote 5/8" bypass line is that the inner or outer Ø

[deaner]

For what it's worth I had set of DSD that somebody had done what your doing. They made a T-stat housing spacer that relocated the factory housing a lilttle forward The spacer it's self bolted to the head then the housing was bolted to the spacer. It was done real clean. Where the bypass hole is, they slotted the hole to make a large "gotch". I have since sold it to someone in the Opel community. Before I sold it I made a pattern and blueprint of it. I can copy it and send it to you. (if I can find it).


edit: I just remember where I have it. I can dig it out on Monday if you want.

edited again: this time for my crappy gramar. next time I promise to have my coffee first.

[2 Fast 4 U]

@ deaner, please do!!

[deaner]

You got it. Monday when I get to the shop I'll dig it out and send it.

[deaner]

@ deaner, please do!!

I have the Drawing scanned and ready to send to you. PM me with you email address and I'll send it to you.

[2 Fast 4 U]

The later EFI engines don't have the recirculation hole drilled through the head. But, you can drill through the existing casting and use the bypass channels like on the older carbureted engines.

Well I'm sorry to say I tried to find the channel in the casting but no luck , I think that the channel in the 2.2 head never has been drilled ???
But I was thinking if I drilled one or a few holes [small 3 - 4 mm] in the outer thermostat rim I would have a little flow thru the thermostat housing so that the thermostat could open when the cooling fluid warms up, or am I thinking in the wrong way???

[deaner]

Mail sent.