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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 134
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Unanswered: Suggestions to help me pass emissions test
I can't imagine it will pass, but I'd like to ask everyone for any tips on what I can do to increase my chances.Should I test with car cold or warmed up? High octane fuel or lower octane? Fresh oil or oil with some miles on it? Hot day or cooler day? Other suggestions? I used a product once in a 1987 Mazda called Motor Medic that got me a pass after 1 failed test. Any other good oil additives that may help? Thanks in advance...
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Mark 70 GT, Rebuilt 1.9L; ported, performance Cam , Weber 32/36, Pertronix, ported and torquered intake manifold, Sprint Exhaust manifold |
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#2 (permalink) |
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2200 Post Club
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Chapel Hill, TN
Posts: 2,266
Real Name: Harold Collins
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Simple things I used to have to do to pass before they started doing visual inspections and I just couldn't bring myself to weld on dummy cats on a vehicle with headers and duals.
Tune engine Set timing at zero initial advance Plug vacuum line going to valve cover and remove larger hose to valve cover so that it isn't sucking fumes from engine. I picked the cheapest octane booster I could find that contained alcohol and added it to an almost empty tank of gas. Drive just enough to mix the gas before going through testing. After passing hopefully, immediately go to the nearest gas station and dilute the fuel mixture as too much alcohol can cause problems. You may also want to pull the air filter element just before being tested. Harold |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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1000 Post Club
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: League City Texas
Posts: 1,117
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Texas Opel Preservation Society |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 134
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40
Must be 40 years here... the State's emission testing web site says 1967 or older are exempt. I may have to re-tag as antique, but that would restrict my driving to weekends. Right now the GT is my daily driver... 25 MPG or better helps the wallet stay fat!
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Mark 70 GT, Rebuilt 1.9L; ported, performance Cam , Weber 32/36, Pertronix, ported and torquered intake manifold, Sprint Exhaust manifold |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Old Opeler
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 5,686
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Easy ... !
Surely a 1972 GT would only have to meet the emission requirements that were in force when it was made ?? Anything else would be a bit impossible.
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GTJim Opel Owner since last Century! Copyright © 2000-2009 J D Henry All Rights Reserved Last edited by GTJIM; 08-16-2006 at 03:17 AM. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Utah
Posts: 191
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Here in Utah, Autozone, Checkers and all the other parts stores sells this stuff called "gauranteed to pass". Now I don't live in the valley so I am not required emissions but have been told by several that this stuff works. Just follow the directions and you should be good to go. The other suggestions in previous posts would no doubt also be helpful.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Mequon (Near Milwaukee) Wisconsin
Posts: 649
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In southeastern Wisconsin, cars with "collector" plates (more than 20 years old) only have to be tested when you register them the first time after purchase. My '73 Manta (wtih Solex carb) passed the first time through and I didn't do a thing to it. My '75 (fuel injected) did not pass the first time through. I replaced the air filter with a fresh one, adjusted the fuel/air ratio for the FI to burn leaner, and put in a bottle of isopropyl gas line anti-freeze, and then it passed after doing this. These were all suggestions from folks here on the site and locally, so thanks! Engine should be warm from what I've been told. I would also recommend keeping an air filer in place as here they do check around to see that controls/equiptment are present. Good luck!
-Jeff W. '75 Manta '73 Manta |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Cunning Linguist
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Plano, TX 75074
Posts: 4,441
Real Name: Otto
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Weber 32/36 emission/performance tuning
Simple things to do so you won't have to mess with it again. Some questions first:
Is Weber re-jetted for your engine, i.e. not just "out of the box"? VERY IMPORTANT!!, especially on primary as this is where you operate ~75% of the time and where you'll be tested! If "out of the box" jetting, I guarantee it's rich! This is a "do once to get it right" process and, once done, shouldn't have to touch this again, so it's definItely to your benefit. Lots of threads on this subject!! Is your choke adjusted properly for summer? In your climate it may be necessary to adjust for summer and winter separately. Choke is only on primary and should be completely open when engine is warm. If in doubt, adjust fully open for test! This will also help your overall gas mileage if kept adjusted properly. Engine should be at normal operating temperature and preferably have test done on cool day.
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1960: ♥ '61 Rekord PII 1.7 3S 3.9 ♥ '69 Kadett LS 'sprint' 1.9 3A 3.18 1970: ♥ '70 GT 1.9 4S 3.44 ♥ '72 GT 2.2SSD 5S 3.44 ♥ '72 GT 2.4FI 5S 3.44P 1980: ♥ '85 Bitter SC 3.9FI 5S 3.44P 2000: ♥ '09 Solstice GXP Coupe 2.0 SIDI VVT Turbo 5S 3.73P |
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#9 (permalink) | |||
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 134
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I am not very knowledgable about carb adjustments, but I have read various posts about setting the idle and mix and whatnot. I assume there is a way to lean the mix without re-jetting, so I will do that. I will test with car warm and try to make it a cooler day. Would putting the Stock Air Cleaner stuff on instead of the Weber air cleaner (just open on top of carb) help pass the test? I have all of the parts and the adaptor as well... just hadn't gotten to it yet. Would I leave the filter in or take it out? The for all the ideas, everyone.
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Mark 70 GT, Rebuilt 1.9L; ported, performance Cam , Weber 32/36, Pertronix, ported and torquered intake manifold, Sprint Exhaust manifold |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Cunning Linguist
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Plano, TX 75074
Posts: 4,441
Real Name: Otto
![]() Provided Answers: 13
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1960: ♥ '61 Rekord PII 1.7 3S 3.9 ♥ '69 Kadett LS 'sprint' 1.9 3A 3.18 1970: ♥ '70 GT 1.9 4S 3.44 ♥ '72 GT 2.2SSD 5S 3.44 ♥ '72 GT 2.4FI 5S 3.44P 1980: ♥ '85 Bitter SC 3.9FI 5S 3.44P 2000: ♥ '09 Solstice GXP Coupe 2.0 SIDI VVT Turbo 5S 3.73P |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Project 1450 supporter...
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Pleasant Valley, CT
Posts: 7,451
Real Name: Bob Legere
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Run the lowest octane fuel you can find, and one or two bottles of 'dry gas' additive (achohol).
Run the ignition timing 'straight up' at zero degrees, do not advance it. Set the idle mixture screw until you achieve the highest possible vacuum reading, and at the lowest smooth idle speed you can attain. Make sure you run through the test with the vehicle fully warmed up, and make sure the choke is OFF. About 10 minutes before you go through the test....drive your car semi-hard. That is, keep the rpms up, and put a load on it while driving to the testing station. Just trying to keep everything 'clean' before they test the car. Fresh plugs help too. When you're done testing, go fill the tank with some high octane fuel to dilute the alchohol. The emissions standards for 1970 are ridiculous...something like 6% CO and 750 ppm HC. If you can't pass this test, something is wrong! You should be able to get a stock Opel to idle smoothly at 1.75-2% CO. If all else fails, I once ran an Opel through smog with a cheap ($59)aftermarket catalytic converter. This was in 1998. It passed 1998 standards! Bob |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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2200 Post Club
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Chapel Hill, TN
Posts: 2,266
Real Name: Harold Collins
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Harold Last edited by tekenaar; 08-16-2006 at 05:37 PM. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Senior Contributor
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: St Louis, Mo
Posts: 653
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In mo it is 7hc and I think it is the same for you folks over the river in IL.
If you change the oil and put a brand new front to back exhaust sytem even a 2.4 with dual webers and 1.50 out and 1.72 in valves will make it under 7 hc. having the clean pipe helps.
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http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/470044 |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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long time Opeler
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Fallbrook, Calif.
Posts: 298
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75 MANTA A "2.0 Euro stuff! Fun and Fast "Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you." |
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