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#1 (permalink) |
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Southern Red Neck
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Snellville, GA
Posts: 6,027
Real Name: Gene
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Unanswered: Locktite for Exhaust Studs?
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"Yes, I do have a rifle rack in my Sportwagon" Last edited by BQS4; 04-02-2008 at 07:56 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Concord, North Carolina
Posts: 1,118
Real Name: Roy Bell
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Gene,
I didn't use Locktite. I just put "Anti-seize" stuff on the bolts and tightened them to the torque specs for those bolts. The Anti-seize stuff I used was for high heat. No problems at all. I know there is the blue and red Locktite but I'm not sure if they are for high heat areas. Maybe there is a Locktite for high heat areas.
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Roy Bell 1973 Opel GT 74 Manta Rallye Concord, North Carolina Carolina Opel Club OMC |
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#3 (permalink) |
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6,000 Post Club
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Imperial Beach, CA South of San Diego
Posts: 6,054
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Gene, Roy's right on. Use only anti-seize on anything in the exhaust system. Best bet, if you can find some at a local airport, is MIL-T-555. It's a graphite based compound used to put spark plugs in aluminum heads on air-cooled engines. Lotsa heat there and the graphite base gives it great electrical conductivity. HTH.
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Ron 72 GT 3.4L V-6/T-5/ZF posi - almost done - Just need AC installed. ![]() 75 Chevy monza 5.7L/TH350/Auburn 3.08 posi - Next |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Southern Red Neck
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Snellville, GA
Posts: 6,027
Real Name: Gene
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Thanks guys, I had a hunch it was that way, but, since there are more people getting problems solved, that maybe something new had come along. I was going to do the anti-seize, just wanted to check first.
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"Yes, I do have a rifle rack in my Sportwagon" |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Opel Key Master
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1,301
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Another thought
I actually tend to use the red locktite on these, if I use bolts only. I use stainless bolts as well, but if you are changing it over to where you will have studs, I would use red loctite, as I do not want the studs to back out-which in most cases they won't, but on other cars-if you do not loctite them, and have to remove them again-the stud wants to come out with the nut in many cases, so I'd rather not have that-and just loctite them in. Personal preference is all
Keith |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Southern Red Neck
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Snellville, GA
Posts: 6,027
Real Name: Gene
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Well, my intentions were to not have the studs back out. But, having studs on the exhaust manifold helps in the install/removal of the 5-spd trans in the Manta/Ascona. This is not a problem in GTs
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"Yes, I do have a rifle rack in my Sportwagon" |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Detritus Maximus
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: St. Louis MO
Posts: 1,160
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I used no loctite, but I switched to brass nuts instead of steel. They don't corrode to the studs, so you don't have to worry about the stud backing out.
On the Alfas I used to work on, we would would double nut. We used a half height and a full height brass nut. Never ever had problems. McMaster Carr is a good source, as is Metric and Multistandard in Chicago. The other nice tyhing about the brass nuts is that if for some reason you can't get them off, like the nut threads strip, there are super easy to drill or split.
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"No, it's not fiberglass." "No, the motor is not in the back." "No, your friend in high school did not 'peg' his speedometer." |
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#11 (permalink) |
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"The Jägermeister"
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Newnan, GA - greater ATL area
Posts: 1,515
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Anti-seize it is!
Greetings from Washington, DC! Dieter
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