Engine Timing

[automata3.0turbo]

This question was coined from the points and condenser thread, after reading it I realized the fact that I would also have to time my engine after replacing the points and condenser ( actually I want to change over to a pertronix ignition and coil, but right now it's best that I stay cheap ). Not sure why I overlooked this, but I've never timed a car before. All I know is to use a timing light and something about rotating the distributor. Didnt find much in a search. What would be the best way to do this? Yeah, shame on me for not knowing how to do something simple right? Time to learn.

As always, help is much appreciated.

[technos]

Timing in a nutshell:

1. Hook the power cables for the timing light up to the battery.
2. Hook the pickup for the timing light around the #1 spark plug wire.
3. Pull the vacuum hoses off the distributor, plug 'em with bolts and stick them out of the way.
4. Loosen the hold down bolt at the base of the distributor enough you can turn it, but not too much!
5. Set the parking brake, put car in neutral, start it.
6. Point timing light at the little window behind and below your carburetor, pull trigger.
7. Turn distributor until the ball and pointer line up.
8. Tighten distributor, turn off engine, replace vacuum hoses, unhook timing light.

Jim, owner of the Opel that has been checked for timing on more than a dozen occasions over the last two days.

[automata3.0turbo]

Thanks Jim. Hope you set your timing issue straight. Soon you'll be able to do it blindfolded haha.

[baz]

set the engine to just before #2 is ready to fire (all will become apparent later )

when set , unclip or screw the cap from the dizzy (depends on if bosch or delco ) remove rotor arm and dust cover if it still has one

move the engine until the cam on the dizzy shaft opens the points to there max (heal of points to highest point on cam )

on the bosch
unclip the lead from the points to the condenser and unscrew the condenser holding screw on the outside ( you knew it was going to be that didn't you ) and remove the condenser
on delco screws are inside dizzy , undo and remove condenser

on both loosen pinch screw to remove points

to replace
fit points and pinch screw and snug down so it will just hold against spring then with a flat blade driver at the end away from the pivot look for a dimple in the points and 2 pins on the mounting plate
insert driver and twist a little until points open a touch and use a 0.0016 inch feeler gauge to get the gap size right so it just drags when you move the gauge nip up the screw and retest gap , if it has not moved (they do have a habit of doing it ) fit condenser and wires then dust cover and rotor arm




the ignition timing can alter due to the points not being exactly as the ones that came out (production differences between makers ) so the timing

set the engine to #1 dtc (the next firing point round from #2 ,ah they say ) , so the ball in the flywheel can be seen under the manifolds ( a mirror, torch /flashlight, and some one to use a spanner to turn the crank while you do this helps its not an easy thing to see ) (never turn the engine back always go round again if you pass the ball [timing chain and mechanical slack ] )



undo the clamp bolt or nut just so the dizzy can be turned ( old people moment i cant remember which on the cih ) and turn the dizzy back a touch ( another opm cant remember if the cih dizzy turns clockwise or anti/counter clockwise ) but you will see the heal of the points about to raise up the cam and you need to go the other way replace dizzy cap

now unplug #1 lead and fit a spare plug and rest it on the rocker cover or any place it can ground with some thing on top to hold it still

then turn on the ignition (with care not to turn over the engine ) and slowly turn the dizzy back the opposite way back to its original position , as you do this the points will open the coil wil fire and you will get a spark at the plug which you will hear as a small snap stop , the timing is set

tighten up the clamp and replace the #1 lead to its plug , clear way any tools and rags , start car

not the most scientific way but it works LOL

[baz]

ah you want to use one of them new fangled whatchamacallits

(spell check thinks thats a word !!!!! )

[Paul]

Originally Posted by baz insert driver and twist a little until points open a touch and use a 0.0016 inch feeler gauge

Baz,
I don't think this will work... as I've never seen a feeler gauge that was sized in the ten thousandths. You've got an extra "0" here...

I suprised Otto didn't hop on this one first

That would be a .016 feeler gauge for those keeping score...

[2 Fast 4 U]

Or for the metric users 0.4 mm

[guyopel]

Or a match book cover for those without tools ..LOL

John

[namba209]

Originally Posted by guyopel Or a match book cover for those without tools ..LOL John

The old tried and true method that has been used since points were used.

[automata3.0turbo]

well thanks for all your imput guys. cant wait til she gets here, been itchin to get to work.

[Bill Hoffmann]

Originally Posted by technos 3. Pull the vacuum hoses off the distributor, plug 'em with bolts and stick them out of the way.

I would follow the instructions in the first response except for step three, assuming a fairly stock engine, and a dual acting distributor that is working properly. The vacuum advance should not have any effect at idle if the throttle stop screw on the carb is set properly, so there's no need to disconnect it. However, the vacuum retard comes into play at idle, which you can prove by observing the timing marks with your timing light while you disconnect the small hose from the intake port. The ball should jump towards the bottom of the window. Opels run better with the timing a bit advanced, and a good setting is one in which the ball appears near the bottom of the window with vacuum hoses disconnected. Therefore, an easy way to accomplish this is to simply align the timing marks with the vacuum hoses connected. As soon as the throttle is cracked the vacuum retard disappears and you have the desired advance. Make sense? Just be aware that this assumes a properly set-up carb. If you're not sure, include step three in your process. One final caution, especially if you have flat top pistons: test drive the car and make sure there's no knocking. If there is, retard the spark until it goes away.