tune up recommendations

[Kappy]

I just purchased my first opel gt (1973 manual; 54,000 miles) and would appreciate any help/tips as I begin restoration. I've been able to start the car (extremely rough), and freed up the transmission. There is a little smoke under the Solex carburetor after I run it for 5 minutes and I haven't resolved this problem yet.I just did a dry compression test (Cylinder 1 - 173; 2 - 169; 3 - 164; 4 - 164. I'd like to begin a tuneup (if this makes sense, next) and would appreciate a recommendation for the plugs (if Bosch, which one?); wires, cap, rotor, condensor, etc. I'd like to restore this car close to it's original state. I plan on upgrading to whichever Weber Carburetor is recommended. Also the hoses from the ECS canister are missing (the two that connect to the carb. I'm not sure where they go.) I plan on removing the radiator next and have the core checked out. Any tips on replacing or repairing it would also help. The car had been idle for four years.

Thank you,

Kappy

[BQS4]

One of the first things to do would be to go on Ebay and get a FSM (Factory Service Manual). Plugs are just a matter of choice/availability, as for the points, save yourself the trouble and get a Pertronix unit, and eliminate all that. Plug wires are again choice/availability, but, if you can't get a 4 cyl set you like, get one for an 8 cyl and save the other 4 for the next change.

[West Coast GT]

Tune up supplies:
Easiest, fastest, most reliable thing is to call Opel GT Source at 800 673-5487 and order them. It's easy one-stop shopping, they always get it right, and it'll be on your doorstep the next day waiting for you.

Points-to-Electronic-Ignition Conversion:
Summit Racing 800-230-3030 sells the Crane XR-700 0231 points-to-electronic ignition system for $95.39.
Summit Racing also sells the Crane CRN-730-0020 Ignition Coil for $29.95.
It's worked well for me these last six months.

Weber Carb,
Most of the threads here seem to agree the DGAV (water choke) or DGEV (electric choke) 32/36 work best with standard street 1.9 engines. Once you tear the engine down and modify it for performance, you should upgrade to the bigger Weber(s). But going direct to the bigger Weber(s) on the non-modified engine will give you crappy performance.

BTW - those compression readings sound pretty nice & healthy.

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by West Coast GT Weber Carb,Most of the threads here seem to agree the DGAV (water choke) or DGEV (electric choke) 32/36 work best with standard street 1.9 engines. Once you tear the engine down and modify it for performance, you should upgrade to the bigger Weber(s). But going direct to the bigger Weber(s) on the non-modified engine will give you crappy performance.

The '73 GT has an electric choke Solex already so no real reason to even consider converting to a water choke.

Harold

[Kappy]

Thank you for your advice.

Kappy

[namba209]

Kappy, you've got a 30+ year old car that's been sittiing for a while. There are some things that need to be addressed, or at least checked out thoroughly, before you put it on the road. First is the head light wiring inside the headlight buckets. The original wiring is susceptible to chaffing and breaking down the insulation inside the tube that the wires go through, and has been know to cause an electrical short and burning of the front harness. Second, the three rubber brake lines, two at the front wheels and the third at the differential. They have been known to breakdown inside and create a one-way check valve for the brake fluid. Any electrical problems can usually be fixed by cleaning and tightening the ground wires. They are located throughout the car. Main grounds are at the battery, chassis, below the air cleaner, to the engine, outboard of the brake master cylinder, the studs that hold the fuse panel in place, and at each rear lite. The grounds, except for the engine-chasis-battery are all brown color. HTH.