Timing mark question

[tbags32]

Hi,

My 1970 (high compression, solid lifters) 1.9 was rebuilt by the former owner so I am not sure what he did besides boring 30 over, and replacing bearings. Every time I go to time it and align it to the timing mark on the flywheel with my timing light on #1, the car runs rough and pings really bad indicating a too far advanced timing. If I retard the timing the car runs smooth and no pinging. My question is can it be possible that during the rebuild the flywheel or some other component was replaced wrong causing this to happen. I don’t know how to time the car correctly because of this problem. Any suggestions how to time this car correctly??????

Thanks
Tom

[BQS4]

Originally Posted by tbags32 Hi, My 1970 (high compression, solid lifters) 1.9 was rebuilt by the former owner so I am not sure what he did besides boring 30 over, and replacing bearings. Every time I go to time it and align it to the timing mark on the flywheel with my timing light on #1, the car runs rough and pings really bad indicating a too far advanced timing. If I retard the timing the car runs smooth and no pinging. My question is can it be possible that during the rebuild the flywheel or some other component was replaced wrong causing this to happen. I don’t know how to time the car correctly because of this problem. Any suggestions how to time this car correctly?????? Thanks Tom

Sounds like they got the distributor installed wrong

[GTJIM]

The timing ball canbe + or - 5 degreesdue to manufacturing tolerences so is only a guide to where TDC is located.
You need to mechanically find TDC and mark that position on the front pulley or on the rear of the flywheel - see Jeff Denton's flywheel marking method:

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/opel-en...th-method.html

[jeff denton]

I assume you're using a good timing light, with an advance built in.
Be sure to study up on how to adjust the timing with all the vacuum mechanisms. I don't know how to do that myself, I don't use vacuum advance or retard on my car. I set timing for a maximum of 37 degrees, all there by 2500 rpm and go on to 4000 rpm to make sure it doesn't advance any more. I couldn't even tell you what the idle (what idle?) timing is, it means nothing to me as the only Opel I've ever worked on is my race car. All I care about is what's going on at wide open throttle...
I think you should try to determine exact TDC using the piston stop method to be absolutely sure your timing mark is correct. Then double check your valve timing. Then set ignition timing by the book at idle, and check full advance at 2500.
It seems valve timing gets screwed up a lot during do-it-yourself overhauls. I really can't over emphasize how important it is to dial in a cam properly. When you throw an engine together and just try to hit the marks, you have no idea what the timing is. Very common mistake.

[Anonymous D]

It's possible to set the flywheel timing correctly, yet still have the engine timing way off. This is because the cam sprocket must be set correctly too.

Instructions are available, on the download that is linked at:

http://www.opelclub.com/TuneUpPart1bJune2006.pdf

[2 Fast 4 U]

If you can, take the valve cover off and turn the crank shaft so that the solid lifters on cylinder #1 are loose [like you are adjusting the valve lash, lifters on cylinder #4 tumbling], the timing marks on the flywheel should match. If not you'll have to look at the previous remarks

[DewMan]

I dont know much about these engines, I've owned my Opel just a year (still not running). Does the engine have the stock distributor?
Start with the basics, pull all of the spark plugs and move the car till the number one cylinder is in the firing position....Its on page 35 of the owners workshop manual. if it helps.


Dewayne E.
I'm still removing rust fro the rear qtr panels....