Sputter Sputter Stall

[grslightng02]

Hey everyone I'm happy to say I was finally able to replace my starter and reconnect the wiring correctly and after priming the carburetor a few times the car started up for the first time in about 2 mos!

This Saturday 30th my friend and I got into my car and putted down 1 mile from my house to a car show where I proudly displayed my work in progress. Okay so the car stalled about 20 times... but hey I was gonna get it there if I had to push!

Some of you may remember I've replaced my fuel line and filter, cleaned out the gas tank and removed sock filter, new battery and battery cables, and a new starter.

I need some suggestions on where to move next in repairs. As I said the car stalls about every 250 feet, and I can't get it much past 20-25mph. The car idles fine when in park but stalls out when you drive. It has the original solex carb, and I have a rebuilt weber waiting to go in. Also the transmission is slipping in and out of gear (AUTO). I'll have to have that checked out too.

I was wondering if the weak transmission may be causing the car to stall, or do these seem like separate problems. If the stalling is a separate issue, what other than replacing the carb should I do? New timing belt, adjust timing etc etc....

[opelwasp]

Carb's junk put in the weber. Drain out the tranny fluid and put in as much fresh as you can.

[grslightng02]

Hey there Chris we missed you here in Rio Linda at the car show this last Saturday!

[opelwasp]

Sorry, I was moving the in-laws out to BFE. Just got back Sunday afternoon.

[grslightng02]

I'm going to have a mechanic come look at it tomorrow. After that I think I may have it towed to his shop and have him do an overall assessment on the car and tell me what needs repair, and what items need attention first and foremost.

Hey Chris, did you still have those engines that you can rebuild? Do you have the time to do it?

[opelwasp]

Yes I have many available. Just tel me what you want. Call me anytime. I work nights now so anytime is good.

[grslightng02]

Dieter (BMWOnly) drove down from Auburn to Sacramento last night and helped me with my car. Since it hadn't been running much while the starter was down these past couple days have been my first chance at driving the car.

Dieter opened up the Solex Carb and we found some of the injectors clogged, some sulphur build up that needed to be cleaned, along with adjusting the idle and float.

The car seems to run better now. I'm still going to look into installing the 32/36 Weber DGAV as soon as possible.

Special thanks to Dieter!

[grslightng02]

I took the car out for another spin late this afternoon and drove it for about 10 miles. The car drove much better than it did before, although it still runs a lil rough like an old VW Beetle.... At least there's no more stalling. Tomorrow I may try to drop the oil pan and clean and reseal it.

[Dennis Texas]

Originally Posted by grslightng02 It has the original solex carb, and I have a rebuilt weber waiting to go in. Also the transmission is slipping in and out of gear (AUTO). I'll have to have that checked out too. I was wondering if the weak transmission may be causing the car to stall, or do these seem like separate problems. If the stalling is a separate issue, what other than replacing the carb should I do? New timing belt, adjust timing etc etc....

Solex is a great carb it gets a bad rap and first thing your told to do is swap it out for a weber. Most people complain of idling problems and thats unusual you say your car idles fine.
The transmission has a modulator valve that uses vacuum to sense speeds to shift at, look under the car to be sure the integrity of the hose is solid. It sounds more like vacuum line is leaking causing shifting to be erractic and creating a vacuum leak in the process. I would check that before replacing carb. One other place to look is the actual fuel line make sure it is not getting hot. This would be the line from the pump to the carb. Last check to make, put a vacuum gauge on vacuum line see it is is solid or is it bouncing around. If it is bouncing around and hose looks good going to transmission, I would look at the modulator itself they do go bad. Thats a just a few things to look at aside from the actual carburetor and they are easy to check out.
If you decide to change carb out I would be interested in saving your Solex from the trash if it is the early years.

[grslightng02]

I got the rebuild kit from OGTS for the Weber I have. I'm going to try to install it. We'll see how things go.

[grslightng02]

My car started very rough today and then stalled as I pulled out of the driveway. I got the car to start again and drove it through town and it stalled again and didn't want to start. It turns over but no start. I tried NOT pushing the gas petal, I tried spraying some starter fluid. I even tried to jump start it with extra power from a running car. Nothing worked.

I had the car towed home and will be charging the battery tonight just to make sure that's not the problem. Here's a list of things I've already replaced or reconditioned:

Fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel filter, spark plugs, starter, changed from Solex to Reconditioned 32/36 Water Choke Weber, Battery & Cables, New Oil & Filter, cleaned lifters & valve adjustment.

My car was idling rough, so I adjusted (inward) the diagonal screw below the idle screw. I believe this is the screw to adjust the fuel mixture? The car ran better for a day, then today it ran rough and died out. When I CAN get the car to start, its rough at low RPM's and runs smoothly when I step on the petal and bring the RPM's up, let off the petal again and it runs rough and dies.

Any suggestions or advice? I'd just got the car in good enough shape to drive it on a regular basis...

[grslightng02]

Ok I think I may have found where my problem is. There are three screws I adjusted to get the car running better, 1. Idle Speed Adjustment Screw, 2. Fuel Mixture Adjustment Screw, and 3. Primary Idle Jet Holder.

I found directions on adjusting the first two courtesy of PAUL:

"To begin with with the engine off, the throttle stop screw should be turned in (CW) 1 to 1-1/2 turns from the point of first contact... and the idle mix screw should be screw out (CCW) 2 turns from full seated. Screw it in all the way until it stops, don't over tighten, then turn it out 2 turns... this is the base line setting. Start the car and adjust the idle mix screw ONLY to the point of best, smoothest idle. Finally adjust the idle stop for idle rpms..."

But the third screw, the Primary Idle Jet Holder I tinkered with, not realizing what it was. How do you correctly adjust this screw... And could this be the reason for my car stalling, and then not starting?

[guyopel]

The idle jet is not a adjustment ..you turn it in until it stops , don't over tighten. HTH
John

[yellaopelgt]

Did you check the timing?? Start with the carb set at base-line...get it to idle..then loosen the dizzy and adjust. Trial and error if you dont have a timing light. Thats the way I've always done it,just gotta find the sweet spot. Choke could be sticking or not correctly adjusted as well....

[grslightng02]

I charged the battery with a 10 amp charger until fully charged and the car still did not start. So, nix on battery or alternator being the cause. Next I'll check to make sure the coil is sending out a spark to the plugs, and also check to make sure the fuel pump is sending fuel. Already replaced the starter, so it's not that.

As far as checking the timing.... I can't quite do that since the car's not starting at all. The car turns, and wants to start but nothing.

[namba209]

Originally Posted by grslightng02 As far as checking the timing.... I can't quite do that since the car's not starting at all. The car turns, and wants to start but nothing.

Uh, yes you can, it's called static timing. Bring the ball and pointer into position. Set the points to the correct clearance, with the rubbing block on the points cam's highest point. Loosen the distributor hold down clamp bolt. Rotate the distributor until the points just open and lock down the distributor. An easy way to see when the points open, is to use a 12 volt lite bulb with two small alligator clips attached. Put one clip on the point that gets power from the coil, the other to ground. As you rotate the dissy, the lite will come on as the points open. An old motorcycle timing method.

[wrench459]

Originally Posted by namba209 Uh, yes you can, it's called static timing. Bring the ball and pointer into position. An easy way to see when the points open, is to use a 12 volt lite bulb with two small alligator clips attached. Put one clip on the point that gets power from the coil, the other to ground. As you rotate the dissy, the lite will come on as the points open. An old motorcycle timing method.

This method also works on a v-10's with dual dists. as long as the base timing is zero. Check into the "flywheel by [Jeff]" for more insite on timing.

[grslightng02]

Thanks for the pointers , but it's all a foreign language, way beyond my motor experience

I'll let you know what happens with the coil test and fuel pump test.

[grslightng02]

I screwed the fuel mixture adjustment screw all the way in clockwise, and then two full turns out counter clockwise. I sprayed starter fluid into the carb and cranked the engine and it started up.

[grslightng02]

I found an excellent mobile mechanic who came out and did a tune up on my car. He replaced the plugs, cap and rotor, and points, new fan belt, adjusted the timing and adjusted the carb.

The car runs great now. I'm gonna keep my fingers crossed it stays that way!