Need some help getting my 72' GT Running

[FoxRacing1653]

I have a 1972 Opel GT and today i was able to get it to crank over and start for a minute or two but then she dies. I think its a fuel delivery problem. I plan on ordering a new fuel pump because the seals on the one now are going out leaking gas slowly into the crankcase. I was wondering if i should go ahead and order a "WEBER 32/36 DGAV"? to replace the solex that seems to be impossible to stay tuned. also would it be okay to stick with the water choke or should i switch to electric?

I was also wondering what is the best ignition conversion you guys use? i really want to get rid of the points if i can.

Any input would be greatly appreciated!!

[Anonymous D]

A common side-effect of a bad Solex, is that it dumps so much gas from the float bowl that the crankcase oil smells of gas. So don't conclude it's the fuel pump (based on that observation alone). Test your fuel pump with a pressure gauge, and install a clear plastic fuel filter in the gas line (just before it reaches the carb) to visually verify you are getting enough gas.

Definitely replace the carb with the Weber (the electric choke is an easier installation, unless you drive a lot in cold weather), and many people report that the Pertronix is an easy and effective timing upgrade.

[FoxRacing1653]

Okay Thanks! yeah i noticed it was dripping fuel in after the engine was off a couple months ago and could never get it to stop. Well i live in Southern Arizona and we hardly ever get to freezing temps around here so electronic would be the best to go eh? do i need to buy a like temp gauge/switch for the electronic choke?

[opeletti75]

dont a need a thermo gauge or temp gauge you just need to run a wire to the electric choke good luck to you opeletti

[Phoenix]

The wire for the electric choke comes off the horn, simple to set-up. I'm never dealt with anything other than electric chokes. Love them and really can't see going the way of a manual or water choke, but it's some people's preferance.

Pertronix is really easy to do and simple set it and forget it, no more points.

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by Phoenix The wire for the electric choke comes off the horn, simple to set-up. I'm never dealt with anything other than electric chokes. Love them and really can't see going the way of a manual or water choke, but it's some people's preferance. Pertronix is really easy to do and simple set it and forget it, no more points.

Tony uses the same method that the factory used on the '73 GT's to power the electric choke.

Otto's 12 step solution for ET challenged GT ignitions and this installation in a You Tube video on a similar Bosch (VW) distributor.

YouTube - Installing a Pertronix Ignitor in a 009 Distributor

YouTube - Installing a Pertronix Ignitor in a 009 Distributor

[FoxRacing1653]

which pertronix setup do i need i want to make sure i get the right one
is it the same one as in the video ^^^ "1847V IGNITOR FOR BOSCH 009"??

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by FoxRacing1653 which pertronix setup do i need i want to make sure i get the right one

The same one, pertronix 1847v , that is mentioned in the video and the thread that I included in the link.

To add to the choices though OldOpelGuy thinks the Compufire ignition of slightly different design for approx. the same price as the Pertronix might be superior. I believe he may be correct and the installation is similar. When I do a search though all I come up with is a much more expensive ignition from Compufire but it clearly is superior probably to all but crank triggered ignitions.

Harold

[Phoenix]

Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr The same one, pertronix 1847v , that is mentioned in the video and the thread that I included in the link. To add to the choices though OldOpelGuy thinks the Compufire ignition of slightly different design for approx. the same price as the Pertronix might be superior. I believe he may be correct and the installation is similar. When I do a search though all I come up with is a much more expensive ignition from Compufire but it clearly is superior probably to all but crank triggered ignitions. Harold

Compu-fire electronic Igintion
Probubly talking about a similar unit to this. I do not know if the 009 vw distributor is similar to the opel distributor. I know that since they both use bosch components we benifit from the same upgrades.

If it is, then it answers another question that I've been wondering about. I've been looking for an off the shelf distributor rotor that is a non-resistor type. John Lewis (Guyopel) had said that there was a 2.0 Pinto rotor which didn't have a resistor but I have been unable to find a part number which is. I know that Beetles, 2002s, 320is, and Pintos amoung other cars use the same rotor. This place sells non-resistor rotors for the 009 vw distributor.

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by Phoenix Compu-fire electronic Igintion Probubly talking about a similar unit to this. I do not know if the 009 vw distributor is similar to the opel distributor. I know that since they both use bosch components we benifit from the same upgrades. If it is, then it answers another question that I've been wondering about. I've been looking for an off the shelf distributor rotor that is a non-resistor type. John Lewis (Guyopel) had said that there was a 2.0 Pinto rotor which didn't have a resistor but I have been unable to find a part number which is. I know that Beetles, 2002s, 320is, and Pintos amoung other cars use the same rotor. This place sells non-resistor rotors for the 009 vw distributor.

We use the same Pertronix Ignitor as the one used for the VW. I spoke to an Opel person that used VW Bosch distributor springs to modify his advance curve. I believe the first time I heard of these rev limiters Otto posted a link, possibly this same one, Bosch Rev Limiter. Are you looking for this P/N for your non-resistor rotor button, NAPA EP143? I don't have an application for it though.

Harold

[newman27]

Originally Posted by Phoenix ...non-resistor type John Lewis (Guyopel) had said that there was a 2.0 Pinto rotor which didn't have a resistor but I have been unable to find a part number...

Tony - John put one of these in my car and it has been working great. According to my notes, it is from a Mercury Capri not a Pinto (although maybe there is a Pinto one too). Here is the part info on two options:

Advance Auto Parts Part #FF43ACS brand is Niehoff for $4.99
BWD Automotive brand part #D555P for $11.99

Maybe John can chime in here with the details on which of these two is better if there is any difference.

HTH

Matt

[Phoenix]

Thanks Harold and Matt. Capri is amoung the set of cars that use the same distributor rotor. John recommended it if you had a hot coil.

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by newman27 Tony - John put one of these in my car and it has been working great. According to my notes, it is from a Mercury Capri not a Pinto (although maybe there is a Pinto one too). Maybe John can chime in here with the details on which of these two is better if there is any difference. HTH Matt

I'm guessing the Capri was the European Ford Capri sold here from 1970-1977. Looks like the later Mercury (Fox bodied) Capri's shared some of the same engines. And then there were the Capri's built in Australia from 1991-1994.

Harold

[newman27]

Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr I'm guessing the Capri was the European Ford Capri sold here from 1970-1977. Looks like the later Mercury (Fox bodied) Capri's shared some of the same engines. And then there were the Capri's built in Australia from 1991-1994. Harold

Or the Lincoln Capri from the '50s . I think Advance Auto has the part listed under

Mecury Capri

Mercury_Capri

if I recall correctly.

[Mike Preble]

I have a half dozen webers in my shed and a few pertronic setups. Do you need help? Give me a call. 903-4576. I have a small amount of experience with Opels as I have been working on them since 1969. I may not know as much as some of the people on this site but I probably live within a mile or two if you. Go out on a limb and give me a call.

Mike