Clutch or Transmission Problem

[MICAH1]

I have searched and read this form and made adjustments to the ball stud lock nut on the clutch housing, but still seem to have a problem gaining speed after fourth gear. I'll explain, think of the strain of running up a hill (you folks in my age bracket can relate) and when you crest the top and start down hill your legs and speed kicks in. Well that is what is happening when I go through the four gear cycle with the fourth gear speed gradually increasing to the top speed. I can watch the RPM of the engine not so slowly match the MPH, but if I am at high speed and suddenly press the pedal to accelerate, the engine will flare (like slipping in neutral) and then kick in again. This is all in fourth gear and at high speed. That's my story guys/gals, I need your feedback!!!

[BQS4]

How old is the clutch? No jokes, serious here.

[MICAH1]

Hey Dude,
Well I am older than the trans/clutch but we could say it is most likely the original.

[simplemind7]

sounds like the cluch disk is toast, it doesn't have enough friction to hold the engine to the transmission so its slipping

[Bill Hoffmann]

I think your clutch is slipping, but it's strange that you don't notice it in the other gears. Is the clutch pedal high off the floor? That would indicate a worn clutch. It can wear to the point that no adjustment will prevent slippage. Another possibility is oil on the clutch.

Since you adjusted it, is there a little play when you step on the clutch, or does it seem hard at the top. If the latter, you may not be fully releasing it. In other words, there may not be full spring pressure on it even when your foot is off the pedal. There should always be a little play, so that your throwout bearing doesn't wear out prematurely.

Another possibility is that your pressure plate is weak. I had one that even with a new clutch, after some aggressive driving the clutch would slip a little, and others that would never slip no matter how hard you drive. Both were stock or standard replacement pressure plates.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

Bill

[MICAH1]

Gene/Bill/Brendan,
You folks have confirmed what I feared. Think I need to replace the entire clutch assembly. What about the trans. Based on my description, does it seem solid??

[opelnut10]

Originally Posted by MICAH1 Gene/Bill/Brendan, You folks have confirmed what I feared. Think I need to replace the entire clutch assembly. What about the trans. Based on my description, does it seem solid??

If your transmission is not grinding going into gear or making a whine in the gears and does not jump out of fourth gear when you let up off the gas then your transmission is mort than likely ok. Just empty the old Lube when you take it out to replace the clutch. Turn it upside down and take the pan off (don't lose the spring and button in the hole in the pan rail, that is your reverse detent ball tensioner). In the bottom of the pan there is a magnet that will mostly look like it has a beard that is metalic particals (dust) from wear. If there are no "chunks" attached to the magnet just clean the pan and wipe the particals off the magnet. Put in new lube(80-90 gear lube) and put it back togather. Replace the gasket to insurew a good seal. The flywheel needs to be surfaced (ground) and replace the pressure plate, clutch disc and throwout bearing. Also replace the input shaft bearing in the end of the crankshaft and lube it with some moly high-temp grease. Adjust the clutch arm so that you have 3/8 inch play at the end of the arm. To adjust your cable pull it all the way out to the last e-clip notch and put the e-clip in the second notch you can see, that should give you about 1/2 inch free play at the pedal and the clutch should start engaging about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 inches off the floorboard. Good luck

[MICAH1]

Originally Posted by opelnut10 If your transmission is not grinding going into gear or making a whine in the gears and does not jump out of fourth gear when you let up off the gas then your transmission is mort than likely ok. Good luck

Opelnut10,
Thanks a bunch for your input on the trans, that just about sets me up for the main winter project. Hey where in Virgina are you anyway???

[RallyBob]

A clutch will always begin to slip in the 'upper' gears first. As it gets worse it will progressively affect the lower gears.

Generally by the time you can't drive around in second gear anymore without clutch slippage it's time for a new one...

Seriously though, you probably should just replace the clutch, disc, release bearing, pilot bearing, and have the flywheel machined flat, and you'll be all set for years to come.

Bob

[MICAH1]

Thanks a lot Bob........... the response to this thread have taken away most of the guess work, and trial and error I was sure to encounter.

[GTJIM]

If you replace with a stock Opel style pressure plate be aware that Opel flywheels are stepped down for the clutch disc. When the flywheel is refaced that depth of the step MUST be kept the same as standard.
Typical! Not one of my Manuals lists this dimension ......

If you replace with a 2.8 L V6 clutch the face of the flywheel has to be cut flat and new bolt holes drilled - see "S10 Clutch" in the Search.

[opeldean]

Originally Posted by GTJIM If you replace with a 2.8 L V6 clutch the face of the flywheel has to be cut flat and new bolt holes drilled - see "S10 Clutch" in the Search.

the clutch i was directed to use was out of the chevy s10- but its the 4 cylinder version. there are two s-10 clutches i believe.one for 4 cylinder and one for 6 cylinder

[markandson]

The proper S10 clutch will be 9.125" Diameter.