Cable stretch or UR flywheel swell?

[krewzer]

Got my GT back from the shop yesterday. Had the UR flywheel and S-10 clutch installed, with the stock bolt. Couldn't seem to scare up a longer bolt from the group before the scheduled install. The bolt is adjusted in as far as possible, and the clutch fork is set to 4.75". The clutch works great! It's smooth, and spools up quickly. The pedal pressure is feather light. A huge improvement over the Opel 8.5" clutch kit I bought from OGTS. The problem I'm experiencing is the longer the car is driven, the harder it is to engage the gears. It's like the cable is stretching, causing a fine maladjustment of the cold settings. Or, something is heating up and changing the adjustment. I know I shouldn't have installed all of this without a longer pivot bolt, but thought that the clutch wouldn't need too much adjustment as the car is only a nice weather driver.
Any suggestions?
Wes

[BQS4]

Wes;
If I'm not mistaken, I think the clutch arm adjustment is 4.25"

[namba209]

Gene's right about the 4.25" between the throw-out arm and the bellhousing mating surface. Maybe you can get a bit more adjustment by moving the circlip on the engine side of the firewall, where the clutch cable goes through.

[krewzer]

Factory fork arm adjustment is 4.25, but I read from one of Rallybob's posts, that with the S-10, the adjustment is 4.75". 4.25" won't let you engage.

[namba209]

I won't dispute what Bob says, he could be right, IDK about the S-10 clutch in an Opel bellhousing. On my S-10 T-5 tranny, there's no adjustment on the clutch, so I made a bracket for the cable to go in to that positions the throw-out arm at the prescribed 4.25" between it and the bellhousing mating surface. I adjusted the pedal free play with the circlip on the cable at the firewall and it works just spiffy. Next time the engine is out, I'll make a mod to the bracket so I can make an adjustment if necessary to commpensate for clutch plate wear..

[RallyBob]

Because of the larger diameter pressure plate diaphragm, the travel is greater to disengage the clutch. At 4.25" you will not disengage the clutch...if you put the car into first gear, depress the clutch pedal, and start the car, the car will lurch ahead quite unexpectedly. Ask me how I know this!

I came up with 4.75" simply by trial-and-error testing when I did my first S-10 swap 16 years ago. I crept up on it slowly, adjusting the cable free-play after every clutch stud adjustment.

The longer pivot studs are finally done BTW, I have to package them and mail them out this week.

Bob

[krewzer]

Hey Bob,
Was I on your list for one of those bolts? I had responded to your add in June on the day you had sold all that you had. Forgot to mention that I have a Getrag in this assembly

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by krewzer Hey Bob, Was I on your list for one of those bolts?

I have your name written down, don't think I have a ship-to address though.

Bob

[namba209]

Originally Posted by RallyBob I came up with 4.75" simply by trial-and-error testing when I did my first S-10 swap 16 years ago. I crept up on it slowly, adjusting the cable free-play after every clutch stud adjustment. Bob

You think maybe, Bob, I made up that 1/2" of required dimension by taking an inch out of the throw-out arm that came with the 88 bellhousing, or was I just lucky that it works at the 4.25" dimension. Something to think about, at least for me.