clutch cable clip

[BQS4]

Does anyone know the size of the "C" clip that goes on the clutch cable? Had to make an emergency repair this afternoon aon the way home, as mine broke. I had a spare one or two back at the house, but, I had to use a hose clamp to get home. I'd just like to get a few more to keep in the cars now.
Thanks,
Gene

[Gary]

I don't have the size handy, but I do keep a spare clip snapped on a slot or two behind the main one.

[RallyBob]

They're 14 mm, however 9/16" will work.

[JGard18]

what timing! I just had some popping coming from my clutch at the firewall this evening, and since I've had an e-clip already go flying off, good to see this thread!

I was guessing on the sizes before, and I can tell you, if it's not the perfect size, it won't stay on very long!

Also, in case anyone sees this...do you know if there is any special material from which it should be made? I would think steel, but I'm not sure...

[calvin]

I tried the "help it" c clips and they did not work well. This is a part that an original is best.

I had my clutch cable brake Sunday at the SCCA races at gateway raceway in St Louis. A fine debut.

Thankfully I had a spare cable but I watched my clip like a hawk cause I don't have another one of those!

[zephead69]

The clip on my GT broke over the weekend. Right now I have a pair of Vise Grips holding the thing in place, but I need to find another clip. Does anyone know where I can locate one?

[BQS4]

Try a hardware store. It would be better if it was an older one, or try a fastner house.

[baz]

to jgard 18

c clips are made from spring steel

[onepocket]

I saw one post talking about using washers and cutting them to fit the cable as a spacer.

I have used body shims from Autozone, fit snuggly on the cable, and have a hole already drilled at the top if you use more then one. Hope this helps.

[jlthunder]

OGTS has them. I suggest you get 2. I have one on the clutch cable at the proper setting and a spare on 2 notches back so I can change it where ever the old one breaks.

[oldopelguy]

Order one of part #3369K18 from McMaster-Carr for $10.85 each plus shipping. Problem will be solved permanantly.

Description, from their web site:
3369K18
Metric SS Two-Piece Clamp-On Collar 14 mm Bore, 30 mm Outside Diameter, 11 mm Width
$ 10.85 Each

http://www.mcmaster.com/

[opelgt722002]

OLDOPELGUY,
Order one of part #3369K18 from McMaster-Carr for $10.85 each plus shipping. Problem will be solved permanantly.

That is a very good idea. I just ordered a couple for my GTs. Thanks .

[Willy_g77]

my clutch peddle just fell to the floor while driving... scary!!!!!!! come to find out the guy that i bought my gt from 11 months ago had a hanger holding it on... the clutch was tight and worked fine, so when i put the new c clip on, should i do anything special.. how do i know which notch to put it in? I read another post but they said e clips.. whats the difference in a e clip and a c clip?????

[kwilford]

Billy (or Willy?),

Two steps to adjust a GT's clutch:

1) Get under the car, and adjust the clutch release arm pivot bolt (called the "ball stud" in the FSM), which is on the passenger side of the bell housing (this is a square-headed bolt held "locked" by a big outer nut) so that the distance between the clutch arm and the front edge of the bell housing is 4 1/4 inches, when the arm is pushed lightly forward (stretching the spring that pulls the arm rear-wards) as the release bearing is pressed against the pressure plate. Adjust by turning the bolt in (clockwise from rear) to increase the distance, CCW to decrease the distance. It should start by sticking out about 3/4 inch from the bell-housing, and as the driven disc wears, it should be screwed in over time. Tighten the locknut.

2) THEN, set the C clip (same as an e-clip) in whatever slot that gives you 3/4 to 1 1/4 inch of free play in the clutch pedal (you will see a gentle pressure only, provided by the spring that holds the release arm and bearing AWAY from the pressure plate). This should NEVER be changed, unless you replace the clutch cable.

Then, for good measure, back up the first C-clip with another one, and some folks (OK, me) even back THAT up with a small hose clamp behind both C-clips.

I have attached the FSM diagram and that shows what I mean. And I also have attached a photo of a neat fabricated backup clamp that I saw at Tacoma this summer (thanks to Gale Schmidt).

[newman27]

Originally Posted by oldopelguy Order one of part #3369K18 from McMaster-Carr for $10.85 each plus shipping. Problem will be solved permanantly. Description, from their web site: 3369K18 Metric SS Two-Piece Clamp-On Collar 14 mm Bore, 30 mm Outside Diameter, 11 mm Width $ 10.85 Each McMaster-Carr

I came across this post while reading up on a related subject and decided to get one of these as an added precaution. The price has gone up to $15.44 but still worth it for piece of mind I think. Thanks for tip Stephen!

Matt

[Dale .D]

Originally Posted by newman27 I came across this post while reading up on a related subject and decided to get one of these as an added precaution. The price has gone up to $15.44 but still worth it for piece of mind I think. Thanks for tip Stephen! Matt

Yes that looks allot more skukum than the clip.

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by newman27 I came across this post while reading up on a related subject and decided to get one of these as an added precaution. The price has gone up to $15.44 but still worth it for piece of mind I think. Thanks for tip Stephen! Matt

Not as high tech looking or conspicuous. I just use a washer in between two e clips so that two e clips are carrying the load instead of one.

Harold

[timemachine]

Originally Posted by Willy_g77 my clutch peddle just fell to the floor while driving... scary!!!!!!! whats the difference in a e clip and a c clip?????

The difference between c-clips and e-clips is pretty much described by their appearance, just like the capital letters "C" and "E." C-clips have a locking tab on either end, while E-clips add a third tab in the middle of their arc that distributes the load and makes them a good bit stronger. Rallye Bob has the right numbers above, 14mm or 9/16. Harold's idea above also sounds like a clever failsafe.

The clutch cable really requires an e-clip to handle the load it endures over time and a backup is a good idea. I think the clip is a better solution than the workarounds described in this thread so you can see what's actually going on with your adjustment notch by notch (and so you're not screwing into flat spots and grooves in the clutch sleeve with uncertain traction).

Jim

[Phoenix]

Originally Posted by newman27 I came across this post while reading up on a related subject and decided to get one of these as an added precaution. The price has gone up to $15.44 but still worth it for piece of mind I think. Thanks for tip Stephen! Matt

I like this but maybe I could take a dremel and cut grooves in the inside to seat like a C-clip. Looks smooth on the inside and I think that is what turns a few people off.

[heimue]

Originally Posted by Phoenix I like this but maybe I could take a dremel and cut grooves in the inside to seat like a C-clip. Looks smooth on the inside and I think that is what turns a few people off.

With the clamping force that can be applied with a piece like this, you can handle larger axial loads than with a C- or E- clip. While the material on a clip can bend and the clip breaks (that's the reason for this thread in the first place), the collar will stay in it's place forever if
- the inside dia fits to the clutch cable's outside dia;
- and the bolts are fastened to specification.
But even if the bolts get loose, you just fasten them up again and are ready to go.

Dieter

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by heimue With the clamping force that can be applied with a piece like this, you can handle larger axial loads than with a C- or E- clip. Dieter

No Doubt! This is a much nicer looking fix than what the circle track boys and girl used to do at the "The Rim". Their answer was to add a small hose clamp. I still like my method. It's cheap and looks factory. It doesn't draw any extra attention to the area.

Harold

[markandson]

Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr No Doubt! This is a much nicer looking fix than what the circle track boys and girl used to do at the "The Rim". Their answer was to add a small hose clamp. I still like my method. It's cheap and looks factory. It doesn't draw any extra attention to the area. Harold

I agree Harold, I already have a collar in my shopping cart at McMaster for the next time I place an order for other things at my business. I use these all the time as back up to keep gears in place that only use set screws as holding devices on my cranes. I just never thought of using one on the clutch cable, I think it is a great idea. As long as the cable end does not crush there is no way this thing will slip, unless the screws come loose.

[First opel 1981]

Originally Posted by Phoenix I like this but maybe I could take a dremel and cut grooves in the inside to seat like a C-clip. Looks smooth on the inside and I think that is what turns a few people off.

Easier than using a dremel.

Drill a hole in one side of the collar and tap it. Add a set screw to lock into one of the rings. Lock the collar in place and se the setscrew. It will NEVER move unless you beg it to.

[timemachine]

These are all good ideas. Do you get the idea that a few Opel owners have experienced a broken E-ring?