clutch for opel gt

[69gtowner]

my opel clutch slips bad so i think its time for a new one. anyone have any suggestions where to get one or know of them. any help would be appreciated

[Paul]

You can get a clutch set at about any on-line part store or even OGTS

[dcm013]

Originally Posted by 69gtowner my opel clutch slips bad so i think its time for a new one. anyone have any suggestions where to get one or know of them. any help would be appreciated

Don't drive it with the clutch slipping bad . You'll ruin the flywheel (if you haven't already) if the disc is worn down to the rivets.

You can get a brand new LuK kit including release bearing, pilot bearing, alignment tool and even grease for the splines here: http://www.dialaclutch.com/DAC-DEMO/dosearch.asp

I have them in both my Opels. LuK is an OEM supplier to the auto industry and produces quality parts.

Don

[Anonymous D]

True, online vendors offer competitive initial pricing.

However, a clutch job on an Opel GT, involves more than upfront cost alone.

Does the "discount" vendor have everything you need,
or will that vendor tell you upfront all that you need to know?

Consider clutch-related issues, including:

(1) Additional parts you need to inspect and possibly replace,
(2) Correction of inaccurate specifications in the service manual, and
(3) How to address common problems you want to avoid
(so you won't have to learn the hard way and do the job over, to fix your mistakes from the first time) --

These all add up in time, frustration, and unplanned expenses
(that often exceed savings found online).

[oldopelguy]

Originally Posted by Anonymous D True, online vendors offer competitive initial pricing. However, a clutch job on an Opel GT, involves more than upfront cost alone. Does the "discount" vendor have everything you need, or will that vendor tell you upfront all that you need to know? Consider clutch-related issues, including: (1) Additional parts you need to inspect and possibly replace, (2) Correction of inaccurate specifications in the service manual, and (3) How to address common problems you want to avoid (so you won't have to learn the hard way and do the job over, to fix your mistakes from the first time) -- These all add up in time, frustration, and unplanned expenses (that often exceed savings found online).

Thanks for the gloom and doom, and for not really contributing anything at all to help the guy out.

A clutch job typically involves 5 parts: the new disc, the new pressure plate, the new throw-out bearing, a new pilot bearing (or bushing) for the back of the crankshaft, and an alignment tool to help put it all together correctly. Usually all these parts come in the clutch "kit" you'll get, but make sure what's included from each vendor by asking them so you can do a real comparison. Obviously if one company's kit doesn't include something that you'll need to buy, it may not end up the most cost effective in the long run by the time you buy the missing part or tool.

In addition to the new parts above, you really should have the clutch surface of the flywheel resurfaced to maximize the life of the new parts. The Opel flywheel is somewhat unique in that it has a stepped ridge around the edge that the pressure plate bolts to while the disc itself rides inside a slightly recessed area of the flywheel. Your local machinist needs to be made aware that in order to maintain proper tension on the clutch disc that outer ridge needs to be machined along with the inner wear surface, the same amount needs to be removed from both surfaces. This shouldn't be an issue for a competent machinist, but if the guy you take it to seems to have an issue figuring it out, find someone else.

You may also want to consider purchasing new bolts for the flywheel to the crankshaft and for the pressure plate to the flywheel. These are all special hardened and balanced bolts, and should be replaced in a set. Opel Gt Source is probably your best and maybe your only safe bet for making sure you get the right bolts. They will also have the rest of the clutch parts available, and should be competitively priced.

Also, there is adjustment required to set-up the clutch properly following replacement. The procedure is a bit more complicated than the average car, but what you can't get from a service manual you can clear up by asking questions here when the time comes.

Lastly, if you're planning on doing this job with the motor still in the car you'll need to remove the transmission to access the clutch components. As a general rule it's easiest to un-bolt the transmission from the bell housing first then unbolt the bell housing from the engine. One issue that arises here is that the front of the transmission is sealed by a gasket and a seal between it and the bell housing, and if you seperate the two you will need to replace the gasket and you really should replace the seal, otherwise all your gear oil will run out and the transmission will fail in short order. These parts are a bit hard to get as well, and should be factored into your cost and time estimates. If the motor and trans are removed as a unit to do other maintenance at the same time you can leave that seal intact, which might be a consideration if there's more work that needs to be done. Also, from my own personal experience, the transmission to bell housing bolts are a real pain to get to and work on in the car, unless you get, have, or make a 15mm wrench about 3" long. Well worth putting a $9 Craftsman regular combination wrench in a chop saw and cutting it in half if there's even a chance you'll do the job more than once.

[Anonymous D]

RE: "Thanks for the gloom and doom, and for not really contributing anything at all to help the guy out."

No, it's a fair warning, that the information presented (prior to the post) was incomplete. As noted, there's more to a clutch job, than a clutch kit alone.
Should it not have been elaborated on, the thread originator would not have necessarily known there's more to it than that. How is that, not helpful?

But your comment, re: "not really contributing anything," is to me, just the latest example of the limitation of this format. Really, posts here should be labeled upfront as "opinions," (since so many are uninformed and inaccurate -- and if actually implemented, could hurt readers more than they can help them).

(Alternative: Best to use on 15mm trans bolts, is an "obstruction wrench" -- it's easier to lever than a cut off wrench)

[Anonymous D]

It's the lack of a complete source for information, that results in "caveat emptor" situations.

Example (since we're discussing clutches): Today I talked to an Opel owner who bought a replacement bellhousing on Ebay (at a good price, I'm sure), and who was reassured by the seller that it would fit a Manta. The bellhousing arrives, and guess what -- it doesn't work (the angle of the clutch arm is different than GT). True, the buyer has some recourse, and was able to locate a part that fit -- but consider the labor hassle, delay of completion, time lost, and additional costs of duplications of effort (2x shipping, etc).

Now, this wasn't the result of information located here. But it did result from the lack of knowledge by the seller (and the buyer, in terms of specific questions to ask), the desire to save a few bucks, and in the greater sense by the "trusting" presumption that information found online is accurate. Unfortunately, that's frequently not the case. And in a "thread" format, should someone be warned that the "correct" answer might not be the first, second (or succeeding) response -- and may not be posted until possibly hours after a question is asked -- (which is critical, particularly when some of the threads are more urgent "help me" posts, done in the middle of a project)? If you talk to enough Opel owners, you get a sense of the problems they've had (frequently based on receiving misinformation -- and in some cases, by outright fraud by scam artists), which is why I believe posts should be prefaced as "opinions" (to protect the unwary).

[namba209]

Normally I don't take the time to get in to responding to a thread of the nature this one is taking. But I feel the need to respond to this one. There's just a shade of over 12,000 members of this site that have a general appreciation of the Opel marque. A very large percentage are knowledgeable on them, and some less are extremely knowledgeable, with a few that can be considered as experts. If anyone should happen to give out bogus information, it usually takes a few minutes to an hour or so for the information to become corrected, and because of the membership, no one feels slighted or chastised because they gave out erroneous information. Members are only putting out ideas or advice on what they have gone through or experienced on their own vehicles and that is what this site is all about. Opel folks helping other Opel folks. It should be taken for granted, automatically, that any advice or information is the poster's, based on their experience. It is well known that the FSM, the official Bible on the Opel is in error in a few areas, and that information has been well disseminated so others don't have problems in those areas. As with any vehicle, there are shortcuts and other nuances that are not covered in the Manuals and have been shared by the membership. Someone asks a question, and a member responds with an answer to the best of his knowledge. I do not believe that response should be prefaced with, IMHO.

[tomking]

Originally Posted by Anonymous D RE: "Thanks for the gloom and doom, and for not really contributing anything at all to help the guy out." No, it's a fair warning, that the information presented (prior to the post) was incomplete. As noted, there's more to a clutch job, than a clutch kit alone. Should it not have been elaborated on, the thread originator would not have necessarily known there's more to it than that. How is that, not helpful? But your comment, re: "not really contributing anything," is to me, just the latest example of the limitation of this format. Really, posts here should be labeled upfront as "opinions," (since so many are uninformed and inaccurate -- and if actually implemented, could hurt readers more than they can help them). (Alternative: Best to use on 15mm trans bolts, is an "obstruction wrench" -- it's easier to lever than a cut off wrench)

You obviously dont like this "format" so why dont you just leave it alone.

[jmbinjax]

Originally Posted by Anonymous D Really, posts here should be labeled upfront as "opinions," (since so many are uninformed and inaccurate -- and if actually implemented, could hurt readers more than they can help them).

Maybe you should spend your time at Wikipedia. I'm sure they would welcome your factual expertise.

[Anonymous D]

RE: "You obviously dont like this "format" so why dont you just leave it alone."

Because of some the results of this format (that aren't always reflected on this board): Persons (with a presumptive, demanding attitude) asking uninformed questions of others (based on someone else's opinion on the internet), and persons frustrated by additional expenses and time investments (in an upgrade or repair gone wrong, again based on someone else's opinion found on the internet).

I could go on, with actual examples, but they're frequently enough covered in other threads here (engine jobs, transmission jobs, brake jobs, etc, gone wrong -- mostly because someone tried to save a few bucks, by trying to adapt someone else's experimental procedure to their own car). Other times, it's because procedural information isn't provided upfront (in a manner accessible to non-professional home-mechanics) It's my concern that "newbies" are the most affected, by the lack of an "opinion" label on posts.

My Opinion: Is that I'm coming to the perspective, that a more comprehensive "procedure" approach to "proven" Opel upgrades and repairs is needed. From there, "experimental" upgrades could be labeled as such.

[jeff denton]

There's more than one way to skin a cat.
New methods and procedures are invented every day. Name one professional mechanic that works strictly "by the book".
Yes the problem begins when a non-mechanic opens the hood. Problems are compounded by a lack of budget, then ideas to cheapen it turn it into disaster.
Enter the members of gt.com! A very helpful bunch. Some are even actual experienced professional mechanics and we know who they are. When they talk, I listen.
As for parts, as I've said so many times before, the best way to go is OGTS. Because they aren't just selling the parts, they make sure you have been informed on the "gotchas" and at least offer to supply all you will need (but may not have thought of). Then, surprise, with the parts come great instructions and tips you may appreciate. What NAPA clutch has that?
Somehow I've decided that Opels have a great following and fellowship, however this bunch includes many people who lack the skills and funds required to keep an Opel operating. Can't really help them much. All I can say is "good luck".

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by Anonymous D RE: "You obviously dont like this "format" so why dont you just leave it alone." Because of some the results of this format (that aren't always reflected on this board): Persons (with a presumptive, demanding attitude) asking uninformed questions of others (based on someone else's opinion on the internet), and persons frustrated by additional expenses and time investments (in an upgrade or repair gone wrong, again based on someone else's opinion found on the internet). I could go on, with actual examples, but they're frequently enough covered in other threads here (engine jobs, transmission jobs, brake jobs, etc, gone wrong -- mostly because someone tried to save a few bucks, by trying to adapt someone else's experimental procedure to their own car). Other times, it's because procedural information isn't provided upfront (in a manner accessible to non-professional home-mechanics) It's my concern that "newbies" are the most affected, by the lack of an "opinion" label on posts. My Opinion: Is that I'm coming to the perspective, that a more comprehensive "procedure" approach to "proven" Opel upgrades and repairs is needed. From there, "experimental" upgrades could be labeled as such.

Dave,
Considering your continuing adversarial attitude and the admonishing tone you consistently exhibit in all of this thread's responses, your rhetoric here has thus far contributed nothing toward any potential solution and your constant "opinion" rants have become tiresome and monotonous!

To that end, let me just repeat, again, from my earlier reply to you, " . . . that even our most novice members are smart enough to understand that EVERY POST in any forum, here or elsewhere, is nothing but an opinion . . . reminders, from you or anyone else, are quite superfluous!"