Constant Clutch Cable Adjustment..

[driftmagic1]

something like that happend to me on my gt but it was the throttle instead of the clutch but luckily i didnt have a rust or rotted firewall and was able you put a couple tack welds on it

[BQS4]

I'm wondering if he has the correct length cable? Too short a cable would cause too much pressure at either end, and either the cable would break, or either end would pull through.

[GoinManta]

Update:

OK.. Here is what we know..

Clutch Fork looked OK.. so we had to assume it was OK.
(Still getting a new one)

Clutch Disc was in right..

Throw Out bearing Looked good..

Repaired pedal.. ( A little welding a little filing.. a little drilling, and viola.. )

Adjusted clutch

Put it back together with the new transmission..

Cable and throw seemed stiff.. not hard.. just stiff.. But it went into gear and ran good. Worked for a day..

This time though the work to the firewall held, and so did the pedal.. the travel distance of the pedal DIDNT move this time.. But the clutch wouldnt activate at the floor. Even though the cable would move and you could feel it.

Called Gil.. and he may have hit on the problem. The sleeve in the bell housing that the throw out bearing rides on can get distorted and scarred. I never gave it that much attention.. so I cant say how it looked. He said you can put the bearing on and its hard to notice its worn. Because there isnt any pressure on it. When it goes together the bearing will bind up and not slide smoothly. Thus causing a stiff clutch with variable actuation.. so it MAYBE it..

Normal people would have the transmission checked due to the stiff clutch. Ben is larger than me and a novice driver so he didnt notice.. the extra resistance.. (he can leg press something like 300-400lbs so he says).

So the thought is this... Throw out bearing binds.. Son throws foot into it.. pedal breaks. Or the firewall gives.. This time though due to the repairs.... the bearing has seized causing no release of the clutch, but everythig else held its ground.

So... I am getting a new sleeve, throw out bearing, clutch disc (might as well since I am there.. again... ), new clutch cable, and new pedal and clutch fork.. effectively replacing everything that moves in the system.

If it does it again, it will have to be the firewall or clutch adjustment. BUt I have adjusted a ton of Opel clutches over the years. and can not imagine that would be the problem. Especailly since we have adjusted the clutch numerous times and it has had no effect on the condition.

So one more weekend under the car and it should finally be fixed..

Charles

[BQS4]

Charles;
I always check to see if the TOB will slide on the sleeve/tube, every time a I do a clutch. I also rub a THIN layer of wheel bearing grease on the sleeve/tube as an added measure.

[GoinManta]

I havent done the grease (will this time), I check ed it quckly to see if it slid well.. and it seemed to.. but since I never had a problem I didnt even think of looking at it very much. Be sure I will this weekend.

Charles

[72Rallye]

I have fought with a stiff clutch pedal for over a year. If pressed in in one swift move it wasn't so bad. The worst was stop-n-go traffic: when releasing the clutch halfway and then trying to push it back in, the pedal would almost bind and require monster force. It felt awful, as if one would damage something every time the clutch was being used.
Then I greased the heck out of everything, modified the pedal assembly with bronze thrust washers, opened up the sheet metal were the cable went through and even converted to an S-10 clutch. Nothing helped.
Finally I bought a NEW clutch cable and that did it. Now the clutch is even lighter than on my 944, which has a hydraulic clutch.
The reason I never suspected the cable, is because it looked great and when removed from the car moved freely by hand without any sign of resistance or roughness.

Thomas