GT flywheel

[Al Olmo]

Hi all, could some one tell me the torque settings for the six bolts connecting the flywheel to the engine? Thank you

[namba209]

Al, according to my Clymer's manual the torque for the flywheel to crankshaft bolts is 43 foot lbs of torque. HTH.

[Al Olmo]

Thanks Ron, wow that seams like very high torque, I would be afraid of breaking one of those bolts.
Thank you again.

[jordan]

43 ftlb's is nothing, The head bolts on our deisel tractor get torqued to 180 ftlb's.

[Lindsay]

Ref:
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showthr...flywheel+bolts

"As for the flywheel bolts, Haynes manual says that that you should use the bolt marked with a "P" in the hole marked also with a "P", and it also says that on a new flywheel one of the six holes is a bit narrower, and this is the one that goes to the "P" marks... "

I looked for this reference in the OPEL FSM and could not find ...
"One of the six bolts has a longer shoulder; it helps to locate the flywheel to the crank. If you use it, you will be within 3 degrees of being correct. Without it, you maybe 7-8 degrees off on your indicated Vs. actual timing."

[Al Olmo]

Lindsay that was very helpfull, I had no idea of the of the different bolts and its relationship to the flywheel. Thank you

[kwilford]

Originally Posted by Al Olmo Thanks Ron, wow that seems like very high torque, I would be afraid of breaking one of those bolts. Thank you again.

Yes, 43 ft-lbs for the flywheel bolts is correct, as they are a very fine thread and also a high strength bolt (Grade 12.9 as I recall). Also look for one flywheel bolt that has a slightly longer shoulder. I believe it goes in the one flywheel hole that is somewhat off-set in spacing from the others (or is it actually marked?), and ensures that the flywheel is closer to being at the proper "timing" position.

Now here is the most important tip with regards to a new clutch that you can be given.

DO NOT TORQUE THE PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS TO 36 FT-LBS AS IT APPEARS TO SAY IN THE FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL!!!!

TORQUE THE PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS TO 15 FT-LBS ONLY!

The FSM's ALL provide a table for various clutch-related bolt torques and the table says 36 ft-lbs for the "Clutch Cover to Flywheel bolts", but this is actually referring to the bell-housing to block bolts, NOT the pressure plate bolts. If you do this, you are CERTAIN to stretch, and probably break, the standard Grade 8.8 (about a SAE Grade 5) bolts that attaches the pressure plate to the flywheel. If you read the actual instructions as to how to replace the clutch, it gets it right in the text, and says 15 ft-lbs. Under the FSM General Bolt Torque Guide, it says all 8 mm bolts with 13 mm heads should be torqued to 15 ft-lbs. I am NOT making this up, as I (and many others) have managed to break countless pressure plate bolts before the correct info was published. OGTS sends out an advisory sheet with their clutch kits, and I believe they say the correct torque is something like 18 ft-lbs.

One of those cases where the FSM can lead you astray if you don't know better.

HTH

[namba209]

Interesting stuff, there is nothing in my Clymer's about different length bolts on the flywheel, or that there is an offset hole in the flywheel. But it is very specific about the pressure plate bolts. it says to gradually tighten the bolts to 15 ft.lb., which would mean to me, tighten the bolts in 5 ft.lb. increments up to the max of 15. It appears, the more manuals you have, the more info you get, up to a point. But good stuff to know for the uninformed.

[Al Olmo]

Well today is the day.....I'll be mounting a freshly surfaced flywheel to the engine after replacing the rear main seal, than clutch and pressure plate comes in, bell housing with all new components all the way, after that I'm installing the gear box (that has been rebuild by HTS in Sacramento) basically I'm getting a brand new system including speedo drive, clutch cable and even the pedal which was so warned out was about to break. Thank you all for your help I'll keep you inform of my progress.

[GTJIM]

Make sure you check and renew the tiny bearing in the rear of the crankshaft before putting anything together - a tiny bit of lube in a new bearing will make sure that this wee bearing is up to scratch too.

[Al Olmo]

Jim are you talking about the "pilot" bearing? If so it is already on, a new one.

[GTJIM]

Originally Posted by Al Olmo Jim are you talking about the "pilot" bearing? If so it is already on, a new one.

That is what I am talking about - glad to see you are ahead of the Game!

[Al Olmo]

Well Jim I wouldn't go that far I just go step by step and hope for the best with all of your help plus the book.