Removing Tranny

[jerseydave]

I'm taking the tranny out with the engine in---Is there any trick to getting the bolt out of the bell housing on the top on the drivers side. It is T-I-G-H-T with the socket and universal on the extension (18 & 10 inches), I can't seem to get it to set on the bolt to loosen it. Is there such thing as a shallow socket? I have all of the rest of the bolts on the bell housing loose except for that one.

Dave

[gtjames]

If you are planning on just removing/replacing the gearbox, then you can leave the bellhousing attached and remove the four bolts holding the gearbox to the bellhousing. If you need to remove the upper bellhousing bolts, I remove the transmission crossmember and lower the rear of the trans down. Then you can access the upper bolts from below with a very long extention and preferrably an impact wobbly socket.

James.

[BQS4]

Dave;
Take the upper and lower radiator hoses off and jack up the front of the motor, just under the oil pump, use a block of wood between the jack and the pump

[jerseydave]

Community forum to the rescue

I chose the what looked like the easier method first. So I just loosened the tranny crossmember bolts halfway - low and behold the socket was able to catch the bolt and it loosened right up. The complicated removal just became easy like I had hoped for. I only messed with that bolt for 20 minutes before reaching for the forum.

Thanks again

Dave

[jerseydave]

Got the tranny out. had to remove it from the bell housing after all I couldn't get it by the pacesetter without seperating it from the gearbox. Removed the pressure plate and clutch. Will reassemble tomorrow.

Thanks again for the help

Dave

[Tru-Craft]

I still have a transmission leak!
A little leak doesn't bother me, but the oil is killing the tranny mount rubber

I replaced the seal and O-ring in the speedo gear assembly, that is now leak free.

Not sure where its leaking from...........maybe the side seals are leaking?
I guess I will have to pull the tranny and fix it the right way.

From what I have read:
I need to remove the gear shift knob and lever, drive shaft, speedo cable, reverse switch wires.
Then if I support the back of the motor, remove the transmission mount, and let the back end of the motor pivot down a little. The transmission can be un-bolted from the bellhousing and removed!?
Sound like the easiest/best way?
Any words of wisdom?
This weekend!
Lyle

[namba209]

Lyle, the top right bolt on the tranny to bellhousing is a real bear to get to. I had to heat and bend a 15mm wrench to get mine out on Willit? many years ago. HTH.

[GTJIM]

I have been known to take a 2" hole saw to the trans tunnel ... on customer's cars! ... to get at "difficult" bell-housing bolts!

Just PK screw a bit of metal over the hole with some RTV to seal it ... then hide it under the carpet.

NOTE: British Triumph TR6 and 2000/2500 have nearly 20 UNF nuts and bolts holding the bell-housing to the motor - LOTS of holes in the trans tunnel.

[Tru-Craft]

Thanks for the ideas.
I will get the car up on some jack stands tonight and see what it looks like.

I also want to see if I can get the gear shift lever retaining pin out from under the car. That way I can leave the lever in the car and I don't have to mess with the boot and A/C console.
Lyle

[namba209]

Lyle, The retaining pin has a circlip on it that may be hard to remove from the bottom, it is dead center on top rear of the tranny. So much easier to remove and install from the top. IDK how hard it is to remove the AC console, Willit? didn't have one, but on non-AC consoles the headlite handle has to come off, ashtray, and the console is held in by four spring clips. One at each rear corner and the other two half way up on the console. The piece around the emergency brake handle is held in with three sheetmetal screws. HTH.

[Tru-Craft]

Ron, it's a lot of work to remove the A/C console!
Since I'm lazy, I will try and remove the snap ring and pin from underneath.
The last time I had the shifter off I used anti-seize, hopefully it comes off easy......yeah right!
Laying on my back under an Opel is my second favorite way to spend a weekend.
An old piece of carpet, a pillow and I can comfortably fix anything!

Lyle

[BQS4]

Originally Posted by Tru-Craft Ron, it's a lot of work to remove the A/C console! Since I'm lazy, I will try and remove the snap ring and pin from underneath. The last time I had the shifter off I used anti-seize, hopefully it comes off easy......yeah right! Laying on my back under an Opel is my second favorite way to spend a weekend. An old piece of carpet, a pillow and I can comfortably fix anything! Lyle

Lyle;
Just a thought for future removals/installs, I replaced the "C" clip and pin with an approx size bolt and nut, these can be removed from under the car.

[namba209]

Originally Posted by Tru-Craft An old piece of carpet, a pillow and I can comfortably fix anything! Lyle

Yeah, Lyle and if you DO happen to doze off, no one can see you.

Ahh, the fun and games working on a GT.

[caramiciu]

Hi,
I have taken the tranny out as part of the restoration,but...
I have a uestion.. When I pull on the front shaft, it moves out about 1/4 inch.The front bearing and the shaft! Is this normal?I am not a specialist at this, but should'nt the bearing stay in place (as well as the shaft)
I could use the help before I install the ranny back.

[Tru-Craft]

Originally Posted by caramiciu Hi, I have taken the tranny out as part of the restoration,but... I have a uestion.. When I pull on the front shaft, it moves out about 1/4 inch.The front bearing and the shaft! Is this normal?I am not a specialist at this, but should'nt the bearing stay in place (as well as the shaft) I could use the help before I install the ranny back.

I just looked at the spare transmission, a later type, and the bearing shaft does not move.
Lyle

[markandson]

Lyle, Sound like a good time to give OGTS a call and spring for that sweet 5 Speed. That sure would fix the leak in your tranny, but it will also create one in your wallet .

[73Manta72gt]

I think the input shaft bearing is held in place when it's bolted to the bellhousing.
The one that doesn't move might just be rusted to the case..tranny could be ok

[Tru-Craft]

Transmission pull out, is complete! About 3 hours of fun!
Remember this is an early type 1970.
I basically followed the manual.......but tried a few things to make it quicker/easier?
Got the GT up on jack stands, front and back.
Removed:
*Pan, drained the oil, watch out, the detent spring and ball will pop out.
*Drive shaft.
*Reverse switch & bracket.
*Speedometer cable.
*Shifter snap-ring and pin. Yep, it came out from the bottom! Now I don't have to pull the A/C console
*Exhaust pipe from header, for more wrench clearance.

Then I supported the oil pan/bellhousing, and removed the transmission mount.
Things are going great.......that's not right!

The last step, to quote the manual, "#11, Remove transmission case to clutch housing attaching bolts and remove transmission."
Wow, that sounds simple!
I am sure the German engineer that wrote #11, never had to perform that step. He should have added "Sorry mechanics for my _____ up design!
What a pain in the_____!

Transmission is out!

Will start the re-build tomorrow.
Thanks everyone for the help.
Lyle

[Tru-Craft]

Originally Posted by caramiciu Hi, I have taken the tranny out as part of the restoration,but... I have a uestion.. When I pull on the front shaft, it moves out about 1/4 inch.The front bearing and the shaft! Is this normal?I am not a specialist at this, but should'nt the bearing stay in place (as well as the shaft) I could use the help before I install the ranny back.

The 1970 transmission I just pulled out, has the same movement 1/4" as yours. This transmission was fine, just leaking.
The bearing is a slip fit in the case and is held in by the cup seal and bellhousing.
It should be OK.
Lyle

[Tru-Craft]

I got the transmission apart and cleaned up.
Not too hard to do, just keep everything in order and take pictures, digital cameras are great!

Removing the countershaft gear, should be done with a punch about 5/8" dia and the same length as the shaft. The manual (72-66) says "Ensure that the lock ball is not lost", but no mention of the 48 rollers, 4 washers and 2 thrust washers getting lost!
Syncros, gears, shafts all looked good, the clutch sleeve had some burrs, that I removed with a dremel.

The main oil leak was around the selector shaft, the seals were shot. Also the hole (drivers side) that the shaft rides in was worn out of round. Set it up in the milling machine and bored it fit a steel bushing, joys of being a machinist.

Got all the seals/gaskets from OGTS. Thanks!
The only thing they didn't have was the rear case seal for an early type. Will have to make one out of 1/64" gasket material.

Re-assembly this weekend.
Not sure how to hold the syncro ring keys in place, while the clutch sleeve is put on? Figure (72-74).
Any ideas?
Lyle
PS: After seeing this tranny apart, I have decided not to go to nitrous!
This is a pretty whimpy thing, small gears and shafts.
I can't see it taking 200HP, not for long!
Max HP?????

[GTJIM]

Originally Posted by Tru-Craft Re-assembly this weekend. 1) Not sure how to hold the syncro ring keys in place, while the clutch sleeve is put on? Figure (72-74). Any ideas? Lyle PS: After seeing this tranny apart, I have decided not to go to nitrous! This is a pretty whimpy thing, small gears and shafts. I can't see it taking 200HP, not for long! 2) Max HP?????

1) The three keys can be held in place by the fingers of one hand while the slider is slid on with the other - unless they are the type of balls with a coil spring under them .... then you need to compress them with a hose clip and some shim wrapped around.

2) 103 HP .......

[Tru-Craft]

Originally Posted by GTJIM 1) The three keys can be held in place by the fingers of one hand while the slider is slid on with the other - unless they are the type of balls with a coil spring under them .... then you need to compress them with a hose clip and some shim wrapped around. 2) 103 HP .......

Jim, thanks for the quick reply.
These are the stamped steel key type. Will see how it goes holding them in by hand, not much room in there for 2 hands! They popped out real easy!

103 HP .......... real funny!
Although if the stock rated HP was 102, then a 1 HP over engineered transmission would be perfect!

I think my car now puts out about 135-140HP at the flywheel, it will handle that!?
Lyle

[GTJIM]

I stand by my claim - There is a Getrag in your future!

Here is some assembly tips - I usually assemble the syncro unit off the shaft and press it on complete ... in Vauxhall 'Manta' style gearboxes. Bedford Vans of the time had them here - same "outstanding" design.
Just got to lift the brass syncro ring on to the dogs before pressing it all the way home so nothing gets 'crunched'

HTH

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by Tru-Craft The only thing they didn't have was the rear case seal for an early type. Will have to make one out of 1/64" gasket material.

Should have shot me an email earlier Lyle, I still have a few new Opel 'mid' gaskets for the early transmissions. It would be the least I could do.

Bob

[2 Fast 4 U]

Originally Posted by GTJIM I stand by my claim - There is a Getrag in your future! Here is some assembly tips - I usually assemble the syncro unit off the shaft and press it on complete ... in Vauxhall 'Manta' style gearboxes. Bedford Vans of the time had them here - same "outstanding" design. Just got to lift the brass syncro ring on to the dogs before pressing it all the way home so nothing gets 'crunched' HTH

Keep up attaching those files Jim and I'll still get the manual copied from you