auto trans solutions?

[Betta Carotene]

I was working on the kadett this afternoon and got her up and running great. Adjusted timing, idle, carb jets...etc. I let it warm up for about 10-12 mins. It seemed like it was running so great I decided to take it for a drive. Get in and put it in gear...rpms drop about 300 or so (not bad im thinking) as soon as I give it gas the car just dies. Im not sure what it is now. It started and reved fine before I tried to drive it. What do you guys think?

[Jeff Pozorski]

Possibly a major vacuum leak that only shows up when the engine is under load. Or something dumb like the emergency brake being on or wheel chucks in place stopping the car from moving (I'm guilty of that one myself ) Does the engine change rpm when your foot is on the brake? Double check all your vacuum lines.

[guyopel]

Also check the rear brakes for being stuck to the drums.
HTH

[Betta Carotene]

brakes are all in good shape....no problem there. At a idle the car is pretty good. I can rev it up and it will drop down to a normal Idle. When its in gear is the bad part. Just dies on the spot when the gas pedal is pressed down. Could a vacuum leak have this big of an impact?

[Manta Rallier]

Does it idle OK with any gear engaged, forward or reverse?
Any smoking?
Did you check the ATF fluid level with the car hot and the car on a level spot?
Have you tried just very, very gradually opening the throttle while in gear?
Was it idling OK in park or neutral before the tune up? I.e., did you make any major adjustments to the the idle speed or air correction or mixture screws?
Any more symptoms you can share as to how it acts when it dies? Does it sputter and then die, or does it start to rev a bit and then stop suddenly like something grabbed the engine's crankshaft and stopped it cold?

On the face of it, it does not seem to be a vacuum leak; that would tend to cause the car to die at idle, unless the idle screws were adjusted very significantly. If it was vacuum leak from the modulator valve you would likely see smoke (burning ATF in the engine).

Regards,
Mark B.

[Betta Carotene]

The ATF is at a suitable level. Yeah I have tried just litely stepping on the throttle and it just falls on its face..not so much like a instant stall. Just instant shut off. I had this up and running around a few months ago. not very well but running none the less. Adjustment to the carb was done to keep it at a steady idle (about 900) Throttle screw is only moderately screwed in. There was no noticeable smoke comming from the car.

[David McCollam]

Did you check the fuel filter or the gas tank pick up. What you're saying sounds like it could be a fuel delievery problem under load. The car will idle and rev with no load, but goes down under a load.

Also, did you ever pull the fog light wiring harness, relay and switch from that Manta Rallye you told me about. ;-)

Good luck.

Dave

[Manta Rallier]

What is the diff between instant stall and instant shut off?
Waht carb do you have? Original?

I am with David, in looking at fuel delivery first. Some basics:
- Do you have plenty of fresh gas in the tank?
- Check that the choke is off when warmed up; this is the butterfly at the top of the primary venturi on the carb.
- After idling a while, shut off the engine, and look down in the carb's primary ventuir and move the throttle by hand; you should see a squirt of fuel into the carb, which means the accelerator pump is getting fuel and working.
- Get a cheap vacuum/pressure gage at a parts store; don't get the ones with a an oversized tire pump fitting on the end of the hose; this is for FI systems. Connect the gage with a tee into the fuel line going to the carb; make sure you use clamps everywhere and watch for fuel leaks. Read the gage to see what you get. With stock fuel pump, it should be in the 3-4 psi range and stay there as you rev the car up while in Park and with the e-brake on. This will do an initial check on the filters, fuel pump, fuel pick-up, etc.
- You can repeat with the fuel gage while the car is in gear with someone holding the brakes ( or use a long fuel hose to the gas and move it near the windshield so you can watch). The problem is that does the fuel pressure drop first and then the car dies, or vice verse? May be hard to tell.

Regards,
Mark B.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by Manta Rallier What is the diff between instant stall and instant shut off? Waht carb do you have? Original? I am with David, in looking at fuel delivery first. Some basics: - Do you have plenty of fresh gas in the tank? - Check that the choke is off when warmed up; this is the butterfly at the top of the primary venturi on the carb. - After idling a while, shut off the engine, and look down in the carb's primary ventuir and move the throttle by hand; you should see a squirt of fuel into the carb, which means the accelerator pump is getting fuel and working. - Get a cheap vacuum/pressure gage at a parts store; don't get the ones with a an oversized tire pump fitting on the end of the hose; this is for FI systems. Connect the gage with a tee into the fuel line going to the carb; make sure you use clamps everywhere and watch for fuel leaks. Read the gage to see what you get. With stock fuel pump, it should be in the 3-4 psi range and stay there as you rev the car up while in Park and with the e-brake on. This will do an initial check on the filters, fuel pump, fuel pick-up, etc. - You can repeat with the fuel gage while the car is in gear with someone holding the brakes ( or use a long fuel hose to the gas and move it near the windshield so you can watch). The problem is that does the fuel pressure drop first and then the car dies, or vice verse? May be hard to tell. Regards, Mark B.

If Weber carb, there is an additional fuel strainer (cylindrical, fine mesh) right at the carb fuel inlet (before the needle/seat) that should also be checked. It is accessible by unscrewing the large nut immediately under the carb fuel inlet.

[Jeff Pozorski]

I had another thought or two. Are you sure that the tranny or rear diff. are working normally? If either were froze up they could stall the engine, as the engine would be trying to transmit power to the wheels and either the tranny is froze or the rear differential is froze, causing the engine to stall. Does the car try to move at all when you hit the gas or does it just stall out?
Can the car be started in neutral? Maybe there is a short in the neutral safety switch that causes the engine to lose electrical power, stalling the engine, when you shift out of park. Problably very far fetched but who knows with our Opels?

[Betta Carotene]

The fuel pump, fuel filter, and gas are all new! Did not check the gas tank pick up though. The car has been driven before so that counts out the rear diff and a torque converter lock up. It wants to stall out and die under a load..not at idle. I wil try what tek told me..yeah its a weber 32/36 guys.