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7B Transmission 4-speed, 5-speed Conversions and Automatics

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Old 03-01-2007   #1 (permalink)
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Unanswered: Automatic Transmission Help

We have the 3-speed automatic transmission and need assistance. The PO of our car bolted the transmission to the block and during the process cracked the bell housing. We have replaced the bellhousing however, while reading through a partial manual I see there is a process to bolt the torque converter to the flex plate(fly wheel). We did not nor do we now have the bolts that attach the two. Can someone please give detailed instructions on re-attaching the 3-speed automatic transmission to the Engine to include pictures. Like I said before our project with the help from the PO has been difficult pulling bolts and nuts out of a rusted folgers coffee can.

Thanks!
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Old 03-01-2007   #2 (permalink)
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Breakage ....

The usual cause of bellhousing breakage is not getting the drive slots on the torque converter properly engaged in to the oil pump drive inside the front of the trans. This is exactly the same as any other GM auto trans - be it Powerglide, TH350, TH400 etc. etc.

The only diagram in the FSM shows how the torque converter needs to be positioned before installing the trans. Once installed the torque converter is moved slightly forward to engage the locator in the centre of the crankshaft end and the three bolt holes through the flex plate lined up to install the torque converter mounting bolts - they probably have a metric thread BTW.

Just a thought - another thing to check before installing the converter is that the wee Bowler hat shaped bit, under the "A" in the pic, actually fits into the crankshaft end. If the motor was ever used for a manual trans it will have a needle roller bearing or bronze bush pressed in there. I cannot for the life of me remember it the auto trans crankshaft just has the empty hole there or a thin steel sleeve pressed in. Whateva - the sticky out bit on the torque converter should be a snug sliding fit in to there.
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File Type: jpg Auto Trans TH180 Opel 001.jpg (68.5 KB, 37 views)
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Last edited by GTJIM; 03-02-2007 at 02:58 AM. Reason: More info ...
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Old 03-02-2007   #3 (permalink)
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Also if you don't have the original bolts you need to get ones of the right strength as all the torque of the engine is transferred to the flex plate via these. I have, in my youth, made this mistake and sheared the inferior bolts right off a flex plate. Not a costly mistake but a well learned lesson. And they must be torqued to the right spec.

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Old 03-02-2007   #4 (permalink)
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Can you give me the bolt torque specs.? I would think using a 88 bolt would be OK???? By the way this is a question. I will take some pictures of the engine....flex plate and the transmission...torque converter and post so you can give me some direction for what you see.

I would like to think it is correct however, we have found not much on this car was correct so far.
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Old 03-02-2007   #5 (permalink)
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Flex Plate Bolts

Originally Posted by Mike Preble View Post
Also if you don't have the original bolts you need to get ones of the right strength as all the torque of the engine is transferred to the flex plate via these. I have, in my youth, made this mistake and sheared the inferior bolts right off a flex plate. Not a costly mistake but a well learned lesson. And they must be torqued to the right spec.

Mike
Opel GT Source did carry them at one time, give them a call if they do not have new ones maybe they can supply you with a "selected used set" or point you in the right direction to get them. Also when you install the bolts use some thread locker (LOCKTITE) to prevent the bolt from backing out and wollowing out the holes in the flexplate (flywheel) it will save you some headaches later on.
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Old 03-02-2007   #6 (permalink)
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Automatic trans. in Opels have a centering spacer that is used with the flexplate ( flywheel ) about 1/4 thick that must be installed .. you put the flexplate on the crankshaft then the spacer then install bolts into the crankshaft when you have them in alignment and torque to spec. HTH
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Old 03-02-2007   #7 (permalink)
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Caution ...

Strangely enough I have not till now taken any notice of the auto trans bolt sizes - the parts book lists most of the bolts as NC rather than metric!
I am going to have to have a real look at the parts I have to be sure ......

The flex plate to crankshaft bolts are listed as metric - M10 X 27mm long - the same size as the manual flywheel ones. So I guess that is why there is a spacer there to take up the difference in thickness between the manual flywheel and the flex plate. The flywheel to crankshaft bolt torque is 43 lbs-ft so I can only guess the flexplate to crankshaft bolts use the same torque.

BTW: one of these bolts has a "P" on the head and this is the alignment bolt - one of the holes is tight on this bolt to position the flex plate correctly.

The flex plate to convertor torque is not specified in any of the Opel Shop Manuals that I have - but the Holden Trimatic specs are 35 lbs-ft for the same transmission and torque converter.
It looks like there is a distinct possibility that these 3 bolts are actually UNF threads - I will have to check that ... so don't take it as gospel.
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Old 03-02-2007   #8 (permalink)
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Also, I have become a little cautious on this matter and I have always used grade 8 bolts. And I just went out and measured my torque converter and the bolt is 3/8 X 16. I don't have the length but measure so that the bolt goes all the way through the mount on the converter to get max thread grip. JMTCW.

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Old 03-02-2007   #9 (permalink)
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pilot bearing!

If the motor isn't origional odds are pretty good that there's still a pilot bearing in the back of the crankshaft, and if so no matter what you do you'll keep breaking parts until you pull either the motor or the trans out and remove the bearing. Brok the back of a perfectly good 40k mile 1.9 block that way once a long time ago.
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Old 03-02-2007   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks for the information. I have something to work on this weekend besides getting it ready to be trimmed out. Here are some pictures. I do see a washer on the torque converter could this be the spacer?

Last edited by akitamojo; 03-02-2007 at 06:20 PM.
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Old 04-26-2007   #11 (permalink)
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New questions regarding the auto transmission.

I have noticed that the radiator has to small holes on each side on the bottom. I assume this connects to the transmission. Can someone tell me whattype of fitting attaches to the threaded holes and if it does connect to the tranny. What type of hose should I use? Pictures would be great if someone has any available.

Thanks,
Joshua
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Old 04-26-2007   #12 (permalink)
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Joshua;
They're "banjo" fittings, and I'm in the process of converting my Sportwagon from auto to 5-spd, they're yours for the shipping. I can also supply some of the steel line that they are in, you can use F.I. hose to run it back to the trans from there.
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Old 04-26-2007   #13 (permalink)
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Thank You, I plan on coming up for the show next weekend. Do you think another Automatic Transmission will be there for pictures?
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Old 04-26-2007   #14 (permalink)
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Oil Cooler

Those two holes in the bottom of the radiator are for the trans oil cooling - or more to the point trans fluid oil 'warmer' as the auto trans works better at an operating themperature of around 90 degrees centigrade. At least you do have an auto trans radiator!
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Old 04-26-2007   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by akitamojo View Post
Thank You, I plan on coming up for the show next weekend. Do you think another Automatic Transmission will be there for pictures?
Joshua;
Yes, my wife's Sportwagon is auto. The lines to the radiator will be the same, or rather hook up the same, so bring your camera.
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