Weber Carb Wanted

[2_Late_I_Won]

Where is the best place to buy a Weber carb 32-36? Thanks this is going on a 71 Opel Gt. Would like to buy brand new put a good used one would be fine. Thanks in advance, Brian

[BQS4]

Top-End Performance. Import Car Parts and Tuning. Weber Carbs. 818 764-1901
Weber Carburetors. 818 764-1901 Carbs 40 DCOE 45 DCOE 32/36 32/34 Jeep. Top-End Performance 818 764-1901

[2_Late_I_Won]

Thanks

The cheapest I have found was $239.95 for a new 32/36 w/electric choke.

[kwilford]

Originally Posted by 2_Late_I_Won Thanks The cheapest I have found was $239.95 for a new 32/36 w/electric choke.

Good deal, buy it.

[baronbors]

Originally Posted by 2_Late_I_Won Thanks The cheapest I have found was $239.95 for a new 32/36 w/electric choke.

That is a pretty good price- where did you find it?

[opel kid]

well maybe this will help,was looking through eBay and found these

eBay Motors: Opel GT Weber Carburetor 32/36 (item 230135863730 end time Jun-03-07 20:30:00 PDT)


eBay Motors: Weber 32 36 Carburetor KN Filter Opel GT Electric Choke (item 320119279525 end time Jun-05-07 11:00:00 PDT)

[2_Late_I_Won]

Weber Parts

32/36 DGV Series

Genuine Weber Carburetors
Any search for the ideal 2-barrel, progressive down-draft carburetor would surely end with the DGV Series. look no further for versatility, wide adaptability, easy installation, low initial cost, trouble-free maintance, excellent drivability, increased fuel economy and improved performance. Designed for 4-6 cyl engines, the DGV Series carbs feature diaphragm type accelerator pump circuits and models with manual, water or electric choke actuation. The DGV also has a power valve circuit to facilitate low vacuum running conditions.


Carb Part#
32/36 DGV 5A - New Manual Choke Carburetor
Rebuild Kit - Float - Base Gasket 22680.005
$239.96
Quant
32/36 DGEV - New Electric Choke Carburetor
Rebuild Kit - Float - Choke - Base Gasket 22680.033B
$239.95
Quant
32/36 DGAV - New Water Choke Carburetor
Rebuild Kit - Float - Choke - Base Gasket 22680.051B
$249.95
Quant
32/36 DFEV - New Electric Choke Carburetor (reverse direction)
Rebuild Kit - Float - Choke - Base Gasket 22680.070
$259.95
Quant

IF you find it Cheaper We will Beat It !!! Just Call 1-800-994-2272
Jet kits and parts

[2_Late_I_Won]

Originally Posted by opel kid well maybe this will help,was looking through eBay and found these eBay Motors: Opel GT Weber Carburetor 32/36 (item 230135863730 end time Jun-03-07 20:30:00 PDT) eBay Motors: Weber 32 36 Carburetor KN Filter Opel GT Electric Choke (item 320119279525 end time Jun-05-07 11:00:00 PDT)

Yeah the first one I saw also but it is a manual choke. But the second one I was just kind of leary about it sitting for a few years and the rubber diaphragm drying out and cracking. Then again, a rebuild kit would still be cheaper than a new one. Plus it comes with a K&N

[bloody]

Originally Posted by 2_Late_I_Won Where is the best place to buy a Weber carb 32-36? Thanks this is going on a 71 Opel Gt. Would like to buy brand new put a good used one would be fine. Thanks in advance, Brian

Hello I have 2 , new carburators Weber .in the original boxes
480 $ each from france contact me if yoi like at. d.j-eemi@wanadoo.fr
in fact i bougth to use on my GT buy finally I choose 2 Delorto carb.

[2_Late_I_Won]

Well I'm finally able to get a 32/36 carb for my brother. The instruction say to tighten the studs down to about 10 in/lbs well the problem is if I do that there isn't enough stud sticking through to tighten the washers and bolts to the carb using the thick gasket. When tighten down there is about 1/2" of stud it needs to be at least 3/4" to be able to tighten the carb down. Do I need to put some blue thread lock on there and put it to the right highth or get new longer studs. I think after using the thread lock it "should" be ok but I just wanted some extra experience to help me out. There is also a cardboard gasket that looks to go in between the carb and intake manifold. Do I use both gaskets? If so does cardboard go down first or does it go on top of the thick gasket?

Thanks for all your help [Brain]?

[MICAH1]

This pdf will tell you all you need to know, well at least a great portion to get started on the right track... enjoy!!!

[opel kid]

nice,a lot of info there!
PS i'm looking for a good used Weber carb

[2_Late_I_Won]

Originally Posted by opel kid nice,a lot of info there! PS i'm looking for a good used Weber carb

talk to BobCGT He had a new/used Weber he bought last August and now has fuel injection so I think he might want to sell his. Good luck

[opel kid]

ok,thanks

[2_Late_I_Won]

Well I'm finally able to get a 32/36 carb for my brother. The instruction say to tighten the studs down to about 10 in/lbs well the problem is if I do that there isn't enough stud sticking through to tighten the washers and bolts to the carb using the thick gasket. When tighten down there is about 1/2" of stud it needs to be at least 3/4" to be able to tighten the carb down. Do I need to put some blue thread lock on there and put it to the right highth or get new longer studs. I think after using the thread lock it "should" be ok but I just wanted some extra experience to help me out. There is also a cardboard gasket that looks to go in between the carb and intake manifold. Do I use both gaskets? If so does cardboard go down first or does it go on top of the thick gasket?

Thanks for all your help Brain
Reply With Quote

[BQS4]

Brian;
You can go by a hardware store and get longer studs to go in. I don't the exact size, but, someone might chime in.

[2_Late_I_Won]

Thanks BQS4, That's kinda what I was thinking about doing anyways. I'll just take the new studs that came with it and get longer ones. I just figured if it came with the kit it should work. Oh well I should have known better

[Paul]

The first rule when working with Kit Parts.

The Kit may not contain all the parts you need, but will certainly contain some that you don"t...

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by 2_Late_I_Won Well I'm finally able to get a 32/36 carb for my brother. The instruction say to tighten the studs down to about 10 in/lbs well the problem is if I do that there isn't enough stud sticking through to tighten the washers and bolts to the carb using the thick gasket. When tighten down there is about 1/2" of stud it needs to be at least 3/4" to be able to tighten the carb down. Do I need to put some blue thread lock on there and put it to the right height or get new longer studs. I think after using the thread lock it "should" be ok but I just wanted some extra experience to help me out. There is also a cardboard gasket that looks to go in between the carb and intake manifold. Do I use both gaskets? If so does cardboard go down first or does it go on top of the thick gasket? Thanks for all your help Brain

Help me understand this, you're replacing the original Solex with a 32/36, right?

If so, manifold stud length should NOT be a problem other than possibly being too LONG! Let me explain, the throttle base of the Solex is ~3/8" thicker than that of the Weber, so something else is amiss here.

BTW, when you get that far, you should use the same "stack-up" on your Weber as was used on the Solex - manifold, paper gasket, metal heat shield, paper gasket, 1/8" phenolic spacer, paper gasket, carb base! . . . and NO SEALERS!!!!

[booeman]

Originally Posted by 2_Late_I_Won Well I'm finally able to get a 32/36 carb for my brother. The instruction say to tighten the studs down to about 10 in/lbs well the problem is if I do that there isn't enough stud sticking through to tighten the washers and bolts to the carb using the thick gasket. When tighten down there is about 1/2" of stud it needs to be at least 3/4" to be able to tighten the carb down. Do I need to put some blue thread lock on there and put it to the right highth or get new longer studs. I think after using the thread lock it "should" be ok but I just wanted some extra experience to help me out. There is also a cardboard gasket that looks to go in between the carb and intake manifold. Do I use both gaskets? If so does cardboard go down first or does it go on top of the thick gasket? Thanks for all your help Brain Reply With Quote

my son and I rebuilt the carb ( weber ) on his GT last weekend and the PO had stacked washers about 7/16 deep to make up the difference. It was kind of a pain to work so we went looking for new studs and found a four pack at shucks auto of 8MM X 1.25 X 8MM X 1.25 bolts. the short side has 7/16 of thread and the long side has .800 of thread with the shoulder being 3/16 long. worked perfect with the only difference being coarse thread instead of fine on the long side, nuts and washers to boot!

[2_Late_I_Won]

Yeah I don't know what the deal was. I couldn't find any studs that I needed so I bought a 5 pack of bolts and cut the bolt ends off. It worked great after I filed the ends down smooth. I think it might have an after market intake manifold on it from the PO. Not to sure though. Anyway it works great now just need to fix the low spark problem now. (hopefully it will be an easy fix)

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by 2_Late_I_Won Yeah I don't know what the deal was. I couldn't find any studs that I needed so I bought a 5 pack of bolts and cut the bolt ends off. It worked great after I filed the ends down smooth. I think it might have an after market intake manifold on it from the PO. Not to sure though. Anyway it works great now just need to fix the low spark problem now. (hopefully it will be an easy fix)

Unless you're using sidedraft carbs, which is not the case here, I doubt that! The only after-market 4-cylinder CIH downdraft manifold I'm aware of is the one for a single Holley 2-barrel, but mounted at 90° (N-S) to Opel's stock manifold carb orientation (E-W).

[Anonymous D]

RE: "BTW, when you get that far, you should use the same "stack-up" on your Weber as was used on the Solex - manifold, paper gasket, metal heat shield, paper gasket, 1/8" phenolic spacer, paper gasket, carb base! . . . and NO SEALERS!!!!"

Why are "NO SEALERS" part of this instruction?

Depending on the kind used (not RTV, not 3M weatherstrip adhesive), sealers are a good thing at this junction, as they help retain vacuum -- particularly as leaks develop leading from the main barrel input area to the studs.

Granted, other cars don't use sealers below the carb, but those often are US type Ford/Chevy V6 and V8 configurations, where the carb and manifold sit directly atop the cylinder head, not aside from it. As we all know, Opels are different.

If the Opel brake booster fitting requires teflon tape to cover its threads (to protect against vacuum leaks there), why wouldn't the carb gasket(s) also require a sealer? Please explain, the logic behind this "DECLARATION".

Also -- the "thick gasket" used beneath Webers, does the job that the "paper gasket, 1/8" phenolic spacer, paper gasket" combination "tried" to do for most Solexes (many got heat-warped, anyways).

[2_Late_I_Won]

I used the paper/cardboard paper then the heat shield,then the thick gasket then the carb. That's all the gaskets I got that fit under the carb.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by Anonymous D RE: "BTW, when you get that far, you should use the same "stack-up" on your Weber as was used on the Solex - manifold, paper gasket, metal heat shield, paper gasket, 1/8" phenolic spacer, paper gasket, carb base! . . . and NO SEALERS!!!!" Why are "NO SEALERS" part of this instruction? Depending on the kind used (not RTV, not 3M weatherstrip adhesive), sealers are a good thing at this junction, as they help retain vacuum -- particularly as leaks develop leading from the main barrel input area to the studs. Granted, other cars don't use sealers below the carb, but those often are US type Ford/Chevy V6 and V8 configurations, where the carb and manifold sit directly atop the cylinder head, not aside from it. As we all know, Opels are different. If the Opel brake booster fitting requires teflon tape to cover its threads (to protect against vacuum leaks there), why wouldn't the carb gasket(s) also require a sealer? Please explain, the logic behind this "DECLARATION". Also -- the "thick gasket" used beneath Webers, does the job that the "paper gasket, 1/8" phenolic spacer, paper gasket" combination "tried" to do for most Solexes (many got heat-warped, anyways).

Not to make too fine a point on this, but who are you asking?

So, explain to me why you think there's ANY difference between your Ford/Chevy carb-to-manifold mounting/sealing requirements and an Opel's Solex/Weber-to-manifold requirements?! Don't both employ downdraft carbs mounted on TOP of their manifolds? HOW the respective manifolds are mounted to the engines in each example really has nothing to do with carb mounting/sealing requirements now, does it?

That said, and I quote, " . . . why wouldn't the . . . Ford/Chevy V6 and V8 . . . carb gasket(s) also require a sealer?" I could give you other reasons, but your argument simply doesn't hold vacuum . . . uh, water, IMO!

Other reasons, you ask? Do you want to chance ANY sealer getting into these ports? :



And finally, to rectify another common Solex misconception, heat alone is NOT the primary cause of Solex's base-flange warping, uneven torque on the mounting nuts IS!