32/36 Weber

[Baixinho]

I'm just starting to work on a '70 GT and have 2 Weber carbs from e-bay. The number on one is DGAV 1B, and appears to be electric choke. The other number is DGAV 33B-1, and appears to be water choke. Is one better than the other for a novice to re-build? I have a Weber carb book. What else do I need to know? Also, I'm not sure how to get back to this screen to check for an answer. Thanks

[Gary]

Originally Posted by Baixinho ... Also, I'm not sure how to get back to this screen to check for an answer. Thanks

The easist way to keep checking is to "subscribe" to the thread. You can do that by clicking on the thread tool dropdown menu in the tool bar just above the post. You will then receive an email whenever your post is replied to.

You can also click on the "forums" link at any time and navigate to the Forum you posted in.

HTH,
Gary

[Baixinho]

Thanks Gary. I just subscribed (I think).

[Anonymous D]

Whether one carb or another is better for a rebuild, depends on the condition of the carb itself.

Check for looseness at the main throttle shaft bushing. This is where the linkage attaches to the carburetor (on an Opel, this is on the side of the carb that is more towards the rear of the car). If you can "wiggle" the throttle shaft within the carb, that means it is worn. If wear is excessive, that can cause an internal vacuum leak on the carb. Assuming other aspects of the carb are roughly equal (meaning, there isn't excessive rust on the water choke, or other wear on the other carb pieces), then the carb with the tightest throttle shaft bushing may be your best rebuild candidate.

Generally, the series 33B-1 carbs are the more recent carbs (the series 5A are the older ones), and if you drive in Southern California you are better off in that climate using an electric choke (water choke works best in cold temperature driving, at 45 degrees F or below). Installing the electric choke also means you can eliminate 2 water hoses (which improves your heater function).
On most Weber 32/26 carbs, you can swap over the water choke for the electric (and vice-versa) if needed.

Once a carb is rebuilt, installation and tuning tips can be found here:

Engine

[Paul]

Also, I'd check the jet sizes before I just bolt the carb up to see if it will run. What may be a perfectly good carb, might be jetted completely wrong. After testing you may think something is wrong with the carb when really it was just the jets.......

[baz]

if you go the electric choke way and remove the 2 "tee's" that feed the choke

remember to store them some place safe , they are getting hard to find

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by baz if you go the electric choke way and remove the 2 "tee's" that feed the choke remember to store them some place safe , they are getting hard to find

Good call, Baz! . . . oh, and electrical connection for e-choke is black/yellow wire at right horn (switched 12V)!

[roundl]

Does anyone have a picture of the proper installation of the wire from a Weber DGEV to an electric source? Some have suggested the horn? Thanks

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by tekenaar Good call, Baz! . . . oh, and electrical connection for e-choke is black/yellow wire at right horn (switched 12V)! Originally Posted by roundl Does anyone have a picture of the proper installation of the wire from a Weber DGEV to an electric source? Some have suggested the horn? Thanks

Uh, what about my previous post didn't you understand?!! . . . that's how the Opel factory originally did it for the '73 GT's Solex e-choke, what could be simpler!

. . . uh, didn't see your avatar, but solution's the same . . . the switched 12V connection on the horn, NOT the brown, ground, horn-button wire !

[sugg578]

I'd go with the water choke.

[Baixinho]

Thank you for the suggestions, advise, etc. It's nice to know there is a source I can turn to with my lack of experience.