Heat shield mods for Weber install

[roundl]

I just picked up a Weber DGEV 32/36 carb to replace the solex in my 71 Kadett. I've removed the Solex, cleaned the intake surface and am now in the process of replacing and rerouting the coolant lines since I no longer have a water choke. Anyway, I lined up the heat shield with the bolt holes on the Weber and noticed the heat shield holes need some trimming because the carb holes don't line up. I was going to use a dremel with the appropriate attachment. Anyone else run into this situation?

[Paul]

You'll want to trim the heat shield, spacer and gaskets back to a size where they all match and no single one sticks out farther into the air stream than the others... How to do this is really a function of the type of tools you have available. When working with the heat shield, try not bend it in such a way to cause create a vacuum leak.

HTH

[jvandyke]

Do you even need the heat shield in Massachusetts? I just got a Weber 38. Have been running a version of the 32/36 without heat shield but I have an electric fuel pump so refilling the bowl, should it dry out from heat, is no big deal. At least that's how I'm taking it from what I've read here. I've convinced myself I don't need a heat shield with an electric fuel pump.

[Lindsay]

I used sanding drum (rubber diameter with coarse grit drum) to open up hole diameters of heat shield. Harbor Freight and Home Depot (I think?) has them.

My concern was that the bigger holes in heat shield would have less surface area to seal carburetor; no vacuum leaks yet.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by roundl I just picked up a Weber DGEV 32/36 carb to replace the solex in my 71 Kadett. I've removed the Solex, cleaned the intake surface and am now in the process of replacing and rerouting the coolant lines since I no longer have a water choke. Anyway, I lined up the heat shield with the bolt holes on the Weber and noticed the heat shield holes need some trimming because the carb holes don't line up. I was going to use a dremel with the appropriate attachment. Anyone else run into this situation?

Let's see, Solex is 32/32, Weber is 32/36 . . . could that be it? Open everything up at all places where secondary airflow would be restricted.

I vote FOR not only keeping the carb heatshield, but also maintaining the factory stack-up between carb and manifold . . . oh yeah, and tighten the four carb mounting nuts EVENLY! and NOT overtight!

[Dale .D]

I think I'm getting a vacuum leak around this area.Question is do you need gasket glue between these areas as well as gaskets & how many . Also do you really need the heat sheild. Just adds to the chances of air leaks. Any ideas on getting a good grip on the carb bolts to tighten. Really tricky even with shorty wrenches. Exaust leaks & carb leaks seem to be pervasive on my 71. I'll take any & all advice . Thankyou. Dale

[krewzer]

Take one of your extra 13's. You know you've got more than one. Cut in half. Then grind the sides of the open ended half down to thin out the profile. This works great for all four nuts on the carb, and anything else that doesn't need torque. I keep it in my road bag of tools.
I also took the heat shield out of the stack, and made a custom shield from a 2000 Camaro shield. I wraps around the carb, and completely covers the intake and exhaust manifold on the lead side of the carb.

[Nathan Acree]

I think the heat shield is a necessity if for nothing else than prolonging the life of the gaskets and such in the carb. I have run without the shield with a mechanical fuel pump and have seen the fuel boil up out of the bowl and into the carb causing very hard starts after the engine has been shut off and is hot.

I also have a .25" phenolic spacer that really seemed to help with the heat issues.

One piece of advice is that there are "dimples" on the sides of the heat shield that I have found are a major source of leaks. I use some high-heat sealer on these areas; a small dab on top of the dimples between the gasket and heat shield and I have had no leaks since using a total of three gaskets spread between the spacer the heat shield and the base of the carb. Another thing I have done is to use socket head cap screws that allow the use of a ball-end allen for tightening the bolts. I really don't like to use studs because as all of you have found a wrench is really tough to get in there.

-Nathan Acree
Albuquerque New Mexico

[roundl]

Nathan,

Do you have any pictures of your setup?

Paul

[Nathan Acree]

Not off hand, but I see if I can get a few. Problem is I'm not sure you can see much with everything mounted.

-Nathan

[Dale .D]

Originally Posted by krewzer Take one of your extra 13's. You know you've got more than one. Cut in half. Then grind the sides of the open ended half down to thin out the profile. This works great for all four nuts on the carb, and anything else that doesn't need torque. I keep it in my road bag of tools. I also took the heat shield out of the stack, and made a custom shield from a 2000 Camaro shield. I wraps around the carb, and completely covers the intake and exhaust manifold on the lead side of the carb.

Great advice on the wrench . I can sacrifice a 13mm.Guess I better order the gasket between the intake manifold & the heat sheild & the one that goes on top of the heat sheild. .Come to think of it I don't remember one between the intake & sheild & the other one was like a half sheet of paper . very thin . Is this all normal or are their thicker ones . Probably asking stupid questions but eh ,stupid is as stupid does pictures would sure be nice . Anyone .

[Nathan Acree]

Originally Posted by Dale .D half sheet of paper . very thin . Is this all normal or are their thicker ones

There are thicker ones. If you have any place that specializes in VW's around they will probably have them. The thicker ones are better able to compensate for irregularities in the base of the carb.

Alternatively you can get some thicker gasket material from the local parts place and make your own using the thin one as a guide.

I will try and get some pics of my set up but it won't be until this weekend.

-Nathan
Albuquerque New Mexico

[Dale .D]

Originally Posted by Nathan Acree There are thicker ones. If you have any place that specializes in VW's around they will probably have them. The thicker ones are better able to compensate for irregularities in the base of the carb. Alternatively you can get some thicker gasket material from the local parts place and make your own using the thin one as a guide. I will try and get some pics of my set up but it won't be until this weekend. -Nathan Albuquerque New Mexico

Eh I can wait . I'm all ears.Lots of places with dubs around too. Thanks from up north .Getting my iglu resurfaced soon!

[Lindsay]

Years ago cut 13 mm "combination" wrench into two piece, then rounded corners of each wrench to remove sharp edges. I use combination side of wrench for (3) of the (4) Weber attachment locations. On the one side, I struggle with one remaining mount using the shorty, open end side. Using shorter studs in intake manifold has simplified installing Weber carburetor.

Might investigate using allen head bolts to replace manifold studs this winter.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by Lindsay Years ago cut 13 mm "combination" wrench into two piece, then rounded corners of each wrench to remove sharp edges. I use combination side of wrench for (3) of the (4) Weber attachment locations. On the one side, I struggle with one remaining mount using the shorty, open end side. Using shorter studs in intake manifold has simplified installing Weber carburetor. Might investigate using allen head bolts to replace manifold studs this winter.

. . . and in other Weber mounting ideas which I've used continually since swapping my first one:

WRENCH: grinding the box-end sides down (skinnier), as suggested here, but using a "stubby" (3") box/open wrench, which has the additional "built-in" advantage of preventing over-torquing the nut! I used the same idea on a 15mm stubby box/open for the extremely tight fit of the lower, passenger-side, 4-speed/bellhousing mounting bolt.

WEBER Mount: Purchase four 3/8" ID x 1/4" thick steel spacers at hardware store, remove Solex complete stackup from manifold, enlarge secondary openings of manifold, heat-shield, phenolic spacer and gaskets to 36mm, reinstall stock stackup and new Weber 32/36, mount (in order) using 4 spacers, original wave-washers and nuts tightened EVENLY with WRENCH above!

Any questions?!

[Dale .D]

Got a picture.For us mechanically challenged people???

[RallyBob]

Here's what I've always done: Heated up a wrench and bent it, and with this mod you can get to all the bolts quite easily.

Bob

[Dale .D]

Damn that Rally Bob guy strikes again!!!~!Thanks big time.