Weber Questions

[gt crazy]

I'm thinking about converting my opel from stock solex to a weber. now my main questions are which weber do i want because i heard you need a specific one. Is it just a bolt on replacement or do i have to modify my intake or linkage? I would appreciate if you could give me a detailed report on how to do convert to a weber would really appreciate it.

[jvandyke]

For sure run a search for Weber, you'll get tons of stuff.
Weber 32/36 is the common one.

[gt crazy]

on opel gt source they say they have direct bolt on replacement here is the thread http://www.opelgtsource.com/catalog/...words=info.htm do you think this is the right one i need to buy?

[opel kid]

i didn't modify any of the linkage on my Gt when i replaced my solex to a weber 32/26

[gt crazy]

so i can just bolt it on adjust it and be done with it?

[opel kid]

try this thred http://www.opelgt.com/forums/afterma...eber-carb.html
only thing i did when i put my weber on was get the thick gasket which sits on top of the intake

[thescifiguy]

Make sure to do a really good job with the gasket sealer. You DO need to use a gasket an sealer, you don't just bolt it on. Vacuum leaks will drive you crazy.
You might want to do a little filing or porting of the manifold to match the weber gasket.
Then there's jetting. Check the post: "All these jets!" for size tips. (Read it all!)

I'm doing the same thing this week. Second time in a long time. What's the deal with spacer blocks? Do I need one for regular street use? Why would I want one? Do 2L or bigger engines work better with them?

[kwilford]

Moderator Note: Thread moved to correct Forum, please search and look around here

[yellaopelgt]

You will need to keep the ball off the linkage that originally came on the solex and put it on the weber. In a few circumstances I've had to grind it down a tad bit because it was too long. As far as gaskets go....it's a bit of a crap-shoot. I used the thicker gasket from OGTS and never had a problem.Then theres the heat shield, again, a bit of preference. I've used mine from day one and never had any problems. Not sure if I recommend the use of a silicone type sealer, I'd be a bit leary of junk getting into the engine. If anything, I've used permatex?? copper gasket sealer. It comes in a rattle can and seals things up nicely without the fear of small bits breaking off. Just give both sides of the gasket a light coating, let it get tacky, then bolt it up.
You will be very happy with the weber,worth every penny!
Good luck,
Joe

[bigjim5551212]

You need to ask for the proper carburetor.

If you want a Manual Choke, you ask for a Weber 32/36 DGV
If you want an Automatic Choke, you ask for a Weber 32/36 DGAV.
Then you have to determine if you want an electric choke or a water choke.

The electric choke carb always starts off as a Water Choke Carb, thats why they all say 32/36 DGAV even though they are sold as 32/36 DGEV

[opelbits]

Hey Louis-

A few quick things about a used Weber..

-the only Webers that you want to look for are DGAV (water choke), DGEV (electric choke), or DGV (manual choke). No other Weber will do. A DGAS will fit, but it is a high performance carb and way too much for your engine.

-a worn throttle shaft can give you fits when trying to tune.

-the fuel inlet should be on the same side as the choke housing (away from the motor). Many DG series Webers have them on the other side, where they end up right next to the thermostat housing and heater hose. This causes vapor lock problems and fuel percolation.

-if you use a sealer, use Permatex nonhardening gasket maker. It is not a silicone and looks more like a thick, dark green snot.

-the stock Opel carb studs are made for the Solex, which has a thicker base. The Weber has a much thinner base. Some of the difference can be made up with a really thick carb gasket from a 71-74 Mercury Capri 2 bbl (this is a Felpro gasket from Autozone or OGTS). Or you can replace the Opel studs with shorter studs.

-a used Weber probably won't have the right jets, so be prepared have to change them. It's not a big deal.

-the Opel aircleaner setup won't fit onto the Weber. Your two choices are a rectangular aircleaner made for the DG series Weber, or an adaptor that allows use of the stock Opel assembly.

-a used Weber will more than likely need a rebuild kit and good cleaning.

[Dan-MI]

I went the easy route and bought everything I needed from OGTS. They'll ship you everything you need in one box. The swap of the Solex with a Weber was really pretty simple. They even had an adapter so you can use the stock air cleaner/snorkle without any problem of hood clearance. I went with the electric choke. If you go that route you need to do some replumbing of the hoses, but it looks a lot cleaner. Running the wire for the choke was a piece of cake too. The hardest part is getting at some of the nuts that bolt it down. A couple are real buggers to get any kind of wrench on to tighten. End result, a much better running car.

[gt crazy]

if i buy a weber im just going to go to opel gt source sounds way easier lol. and i know the carb will be in perfect working order

[yellaopelgt]

I also went to the hardware store and bought shorter studs for the intake. The originals were much longer than needed and it took FOREVER to tighten things down!! The old ones came right out of the intake with ease....it was like $4.00 for them all, but the time saved from cranking the nuts down at a 16th of a turn at a time was priceless!! Cut a 13mm box wrench in half and keep it handy...you'll be needing it to tighten the carb down. Better yet...magnetize it as well cuz when you drop a nut or washer, it can be almost impossible to retrieve it. (and you WILL drop one trust me) I have a slew of "Opel" specialty tools that I've made that I keep in the car at all times. Makes life sooo much easier.
HTH
Joe

[namba209]

Here's a hint from what I found in my aftermarket Opel Shop Manual, it may give you folks an idea on why there are leaks around the base of the carb. Carb mounting bolts are to be torqued to 12 ft. lbs. Think about that!! The studs will handle a lot more than that, but the pot metal structure of the base won't!! It can crack or warp if not torqued to specs and torqued down evenly. Set your torque wrenches to 12 foot lbs and put a bolt in a vise and torque it down, you'll be surprised how little that is. I'm gonna guess most carbs have been installed and overtorqued. "Smoke tight and a 1/4 turn don't get it."

[Dale .D]

Just how exactly can you get a torque wrench on the carb bolts.Not possible!!

[namba209]

Actually with a crowsfoot and flex extension. At least that's how I did it when I had a carb on my engine.

[bigjim5551212]

On Datsuns, its sometimes easier to remove the valve cover before working on the carburetor bolts. maybe on suzukis as well?

[gt crazy]

on the 8th i will have enough for the 32/36 DGAV water choke and so i will be buying a BRAND NEW one from OGTS and I am buying the crome air filter (only use when showing car off) and use the adapter when i'm just using for a dailer driver. YES ONLY 1 MORE WEEK TILL MY CARB FINALLY!

[jvandyke]

Just yesterday I took off my Weber's rectangular chrome filter/housing and went to the stock intake via carb cover/hood (Redline Weber kit 99010 357 I think it is).
I did it for two reasons:
1) cooler air is better
2) it looks better!
Personal opinion of course but to me the stock Opel intake is signature for CIH and a good design and more interesting than a filter slapped on the carb top (even if it is in a shiny box). In other words, I look forward to showing off my "old" intake more than my Weber's shiny box.
I wonder if you will notice much difference in running the two different air intakes. I think it's possible that the difference in restriction between the two is enough to effect the carb mix. Probably not enough to be troublesome or a bother but maybe.
I held off trying to fine tune my Weber until I had the air intake I wanted for this reason (although I doubt it will change much, not enough for this rookie to pick up on anyway!).

[opelbits]

All the evidence indicates the stock snorkel is a better performer than the rectangular chrome filter. Aside from the cooler air, the snorkel (especially with the Weber adaptor) feeds the air straight down above the carb , whereas with the chrome unit that fits under a closed GT hood, the air has to go in horizontally then go up and over the choke airhorn, then down. Too many turns. There are taller units, but they don't fit.

The only real benefit to the short chrome filter is that you don't have to remove the snorkel and air filter housing to work on the car.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by yellaopelgt I also went to the hardware store and bought shorter studs for the intake. The originals were much longer than needed and it took FOREVER to tighten things down!! The old ones came right out of the intake with ease....it was like $4.00 for them all, but the time saved from cranking the nuts down at a 16th of a turn at a time was priceless!! Cut a 13mm box wrench in half and keep it handy...you'll be needing it to tighten the carb down. Better yet...magnetize it as well cuz when you drop a nut or washer, it can be almost impossible to retrieve it.(and you WILL drop one trust me) I have a slew of "Opel" specialty tools that I've made that I keep in the car at all times. Makes life sooo much easier. HTH Joe

Why complicate things?

Here's an idea . . . just go to ANY hardware store and buy four "fat washers" (spacers) to mount your Weber . . . "stock stackup" under carb, "new" Weber, "new" spacers, "stock" wave washers, "stock" nuts!

The ONLY thing that is changed from the stock Solex mounting is the carb and those spacers . . .

[Dan-MI]

I agree that the snorkel adapter for the weber looks better. I actually painted mine black to match the snorkel. I thought the aluminum color clashed a bit with the snorkel's black hose.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by Dan-MI I went the easy route and bought everything I needed from OGTS. They'll ship you everything you need in one box. The swap of the Solex with a Weber was really pretty simple. They even had an adapter so you can use the stock air cleaner/snorkle without any problem of hood clearance. I went with the electric choke. If you go that route you need to do some replumbing of the hoses, but it looks a lot cleaner. Running the wire for the choke was a piece of cake too. The hardest part is getting at some of the nuts that bolt it down. A couple are real buggers to get any kind of wrench on to tighten. End result, a much better running car.

. . . and here's that "piece of cake":

Originally Posted by tekenaar The simplest way to wire your GT's electric choke is to run wire to plus (+) connection of the passenger-side horn (black/yellow). That's how it's wired on the stock '73 GT, the only year the GT had an electric choke Solex. It's "switched 12V", BTW. . . . actually this method could also be used on all other Opel models, just connect it to the horn's "other-than-brown" (ground/minus/horn button) side!

[jvandyke]

Originally Posted by Dan-MI I agree that the snorkel adapter for the weber looks better. I actually painted mine black to match the snorkel. I thought the aluminum color clashed a bit with the snorkel's black hose.

I thought about that already too. Not over thrilled with the look of the Redline Weber carb hood, geometric lines.....grind it all down and paint matte black.....no I'm not, but a shot of black wouldn't be too bad, you got pics of yours Dan? I'm off to your gallery.