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| Aftermarket Down-draft carbs including Weber DG_V and DG_S |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Tbags32
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 50
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I was having trouble with my weber carb so I decided to purchase a new one. I put the new one on and the car was running smoother. I went for a ride and it was performing better than the old weber. Then I took it for a second ride and it backfired and died. I had trouble getting it started. I was able to get it started but if I pressed on the gas pedal it would die. So I got towed home. After reading up I thought I had a vacuum leak. I took off the carb and applied gasket sealer to the top and bottom of the new gasket. I also checked the hoses and could not find any leaks. I adjusted the air fuel mixture screw. The clear fuel filter looks clean. No water in the gas. The fuel pump is brand new and pumping. I moved the timing and it doesn't change the problem. New plugs, wires, cap and has electronic ignition. Started it up and here are my symptoms: Hard to start unless butter fly choke is depressed all the way closed Once warmed up it will idle sometimes and then die If you can get it to idle once you press on the gas pedle it dies I am so at a dead end to figure this one out. Please if anyone can help I would deeply apprciate it. I purchased the new carb to get away from these carb problems and made things worse. ![]() Thanks Tom Last edited by tekenaar; 04-09-2008 at 11:32 AM. Reason: peddle = sell |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Opeler
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hudsonville, Michigan, USA
Posts: 1,794
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I'm not the most knowledgeable guy here by a long shot but it seems to me that if it was running good, then suddenly not you've got a blockage in a fuel passage. Symptoms sound that way to me anyway. Take it off, take the top off, pull the jets shoot the heck out of it with carb cleaner, reassemble and see what you've got.
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"Being ignorant is not so much a shame, as being unwilling to learn." Benjamin Franklin |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Old Opeler
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 5,686
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Yep ...
Sounds like fuel starvation - maybe some water or gunk got through from the tank and blocked internal fuel passages in the carb OR the fuel strainer 'sock' in the fuel tank has collapsed or is blocked. Check out Threads about this problem with "Search".
Anothe rproblem can be blocked vent lines to the fuel tank - try running it with the fuel cap off for a wee while. Once a vacuum forms in the tank no fuel can be pumped out! HTH
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GTJim Opel Owner since last Century! Copyright © 2000-2009 J D Henry All Rights Reserved Last edited by GTJIM; 04-04-2008 at 06:30 AM. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Detritus Maximus
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: St. Louis MO
Posts: 1,160
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Did it backfire thru the carb or the exhaust (technically not a backfire, it's called an after fire or something...)?
If it was thru the carb, then I'd keep looking for a vacuum leak. The pressure wave from a backfire can damage rubber diaphragms (like the power valve, brake booster and vacuum advance diaphragms. The older they are, the easier to damage) and blow off rubber vacuum caps and vacuum lines or blow holes out of them. I just went thru that with the van. Had a backfire damage the MAP sensor. This is presuming the backfire caused the current problem. If the backfire and your current problem share the same cause, then I'd agree with the others that it is a lack of fuel and it leaned out. In either case, the big clue is you have to close the choke butterfly and not no use the pedal. Both of which say you have too much air to begin with for the amount of fuel. If you can get it to run with the speed screw completely or almost backed off and with the mixture screw turned out, then it would have to be vacuum leak.
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"No, it's not fiberglass." "No, the motor is not in the back." "No, your friend in high school did not 'peg' his speedometer." Last edited by opelbits; 04-05-2008 at 02:51 AM. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Site Admin
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You could also take out your fuel filter and tap it on a clean surface and see if a lot of sediment comes out or take the top off the carb and see if there is any crap in the bowel that got past the filter. Could be a rust in the tank or a blocked fuel sock.
My GT is having a similar problem and I keep putting off the inevitable... pulling the tank an cleaning/sealing it. I've already been through the other suggestions. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Tbags32
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 50
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Update
Thanks for all the helpful replies. The accelerator pump on the carb is just not working. I purchased the carb from OGTS and they are sending me a replacement. They are great there and have been very helpful. I will keep you posted.
Thanks again Tom |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Weber Carburetor Guru
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Vancouver Canada
Posts: 129
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thats good you found the problem.
If the pump jet did not work, that would tell me, a part was left out of the carburetor. Namely the ball inside the screw that holds the pump jet in place. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Opelitis since 1984
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Midlothian, VA
Posts: 2,213
Real Name: Charles Goin
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Even though you have seemed to have found the problem. One thing I have had happen too.. the nuts back off and a vacuum leak develops at the base. Sometimes it can be the simplest things.
Charles
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CURRENT '06 Pontiac GTO '71 Opel Kadett 4 Door 36D (w/ Opel Parts & Service 2.0L) '74 Opel Manta (Bens Manta) '74 Opel Manta (w/ LK5 transplant) Past '73 Opel Manta (Blue Max) '75 Opel Manta (Yellow) '85 Bitter SC '73 Opel Commodore B GS '73 Opel GT (w/ Vinyl Roof) At least 16 or So Parts Opels |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Tbags32
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 50
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Update
First off thanks for all the replies and great help. Bottom line is I put on the new carb and she is running the best she ever has in the 9 + years that I owned her. All is fine in Opel land this week (until the next problem).
![]() Thanks again Tom |
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