Car Won't Idle...Vacuum leak/carb prob? please help! -Dallas, TX-

[brandonr1985]

Ok, so I bought my 1970 Opel GT about a month ago and it did not idle but would stall unless you gave it gas. Even in that condition, I drove it 5 hours back home from Amarillo, TX to Dallas. I was told the carb needed to be replaced so I purchased a "new" (it was actually remanufactured) weber 32/36 dgev from OGTS in hopes of solving the problem. Well, I had my mechanic install the carb (because I have never worked on a carb before, and figured a professional could adjust/tune it to assure excellent running condition) but I am still having the same probelm. There is one issue however with the carb that I am addressing right now-it has some fuel seeping out of the thin gasket inside the carb that runs horizontally through the top half of the carb. I am imagining this is not helping the issue, but being that I had the same problem with the other carb, I don't think this is the cause of my issues.

Any ideas on what is wrong? Vacuum leak maybe? I searched the forums and did not see anyone having the same problem so I am not sure where to begin. Please help!

Thanks,

Brandon

[jvandyke]

Whole new carb (even if it has issues) same problem, must not be the carb.
What's ignition timing look like?
Did you do new points/condenser, dwell and static timing and all that?
And of course check all for vacuum leaks.
Little hose from valve cover, vacuum booster line to brake booster, vacuum advance/retard line to distributor.
You can plug all of these last three off and see if the idle changes at all (don't plug the little one to valve cover.

[Dennis Texas]

Originally Posted by brandonr1985 I am still having the same probelm. There is one issue however with the carb that I am addressing right now-it has some fuel seeping out of the thin gasket inside the carb that runs horizontally through the top half of the carb.

I'm about 2 hours South of you on I-45 (Buffalo) if that would be of any help to you. I'm not quite understanding the gas seeping you are referring to, or why two carbs would have the same problem. I have a hard time understanding how a professional mechanic would of let you take the car in that condition, without elaborating on the problem, (sounds like float adjustment for one) he must of seen it first hand without more facts, it leaves it to speculatation. If in fact the float is set wrong and gas is seeping into your venturi's at idle yes it will kill it at idle due to being so rich and it must be difficult to start to get all that gas blown out of engine without fouling plugs. All that extra gas is not doing your piston rings any good either (in fact once your problemis identified you may want to change the oil if it appears thin or smells like gas). I'd be happy to look at it for you. I'm about 5 miles off the interstate 45 in Buffalo. Shoot me an email.
If you would like maybe give it a quick test, start engine and use a pair of vise grips and crimp gas line before the Carb to stop the gas flow while it's running and let it run off the reserve in the bowl and see if idle returns or if it runs better.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by brandonr1985 Ok, so I bought my 1970 Opel GT about a month ago and it did not idle but would stall unless you gave it gas. Even in that condition, I drove it 5 hours back home from Amarillo, TX to Dallas. I was told the carb needed to be replaced so I purchased a "new" (it was actually remanufactured) weber 32/36 dgev from OGTS in hopes of solving the problem. Well, I had my mechanic install the carb (because I have never worked on a carb before, and figured a professional could adjust/tune it to assure excellent running condition) but I am still having the same probelm. There is one issue however with the carb that I am addressing right now-it has some fuel seeping out of the thin gasket inside the carb that runs horizontally through the top half of the carb. I am imagining this is not helping the issue, but being that I had the same problem with the other carb, I don't think this is the cause of my issues. Any ideas on what is wrong? Vacuum leak maybe? I searched the forums and did not see anyone having the same problem so I am not sure where to begin. Please help! Thanks, Brandon

I'm in Plano . . . I'll PM you my number.

[Turbo X]

Originally Posted by brandonr1985 Ok, so I bought my 1970 Opel GT about a month ago and it did not idle but would stall unless you gave it gas. Even in that condition, I drove it 5 hours back home from Amarillo, TX to Dallas. I was told the carb needed to be replaced so I purchased a "new" (it was actually remanufactured) weber 32/36 dgev from OGTS in hopes of solving the problem. Well, I had my mechanic install the carb (because I have never worked on a carb before, and figured a professional could adjust/tune it to assure excellent running condition) but I am still having the same probelm. There is one issue however with the carb that I am addressing right now-it has some fuel seeping out of the thin gasket inside the carb that runs horizontally through the top half of the carb. I am imagining this is not helping the issue, but being that I had the same problem with the other carb, I don't think this is the cause of my issues. Any ideas on what is wrong? Vacuum leak maybe? I searched the forums and did not see anyone having the same problem so I am not sure where to begin. Please help! Thanks, Brandon

Before you start guessing and replacing every thing I would first thing I would do is a compression test on the engine, that all cylinder are about the same.. then put a vacuum gage on, it will show you if you have a leak, and if your cab is adjusted right, a tac & dwell tester for RPM & point , and timing light, it's the only way your going be able find your trouble. don't forget to use your service manual specification. if you don't know how to use these instrument. then learn how for they are the only thing to tell you the health of you engine and what problem needs to be fixed... make sure your vacuum advance hoses on your distributer are hooked up and working... that was my idle problem.

[ungermm]

Congrats on your new GT and welcome to OpelGT.com. I'm thinking that you probably do have an improperly adjusted float in the carb or the needle valve is not closing properly. You can test this by taking the fuel line off the carb and manually trying to add fuel (small squeeze bottle) to the carb. If the carb continues to accept fuel and/or leaks out of the upper carb gasket, you've found your problem. You can do a carburetor float adjustment search and find the proper adjustment instructions on this site. Also, vacuum leaks are a common issue and can lead to erratic idle and acceleration problems.
Jerry

[gt crazy]

Im almost postive that gas seeping through is it perculating. It's common in opels. And this is caused because the gas inside the carb bowl starts to boil and therfore bubbles out. The most common sign is when you see like a mist forming inside the carb. Mine does it after engine warms up and i turn engine off. If it does start perculating you have to do 1 of 2 things. Wait till that gas evaporates OR hold your foot to the floor and hope your able to get it started but this may cause it to flood worse.

One of my friends on this site told me to run my fuel line underneath the front crossmember to the carburator so its off the engine and not absorbing heat. I have not done this yet but it is a good idea. Try doing that and it MIGHT solve the problem. I've replaced every hose, got a new carb, adjusted carb everyway in the book, played with timing, ALMOST everything possible and it still boils away. I have not relocated the fuel line so you might want to try doing that first and see if that solves the problem.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by gt crazy Im almost postive that gas seeping through is it perculating. It's common in opels. And this is caused because the gas inside the carb bowl starts to boil and therfore bubbles out. The most common sign is when you see like a mist forming inside the carb. Mine does it after engine warms up and i turn engine off. If it does start perculating you have to do 1 of 2 things. Wait till that gas evaporates OR hold your foot to the floor and hope your able to get it started but this may cause it to flood worse. One of my friends on this site told me to run my fuel line underneath the front crossmember to the carburetor so its off the engine and not absorbing heat. I have not done this yet but it is a good idea. Try doing that and it MIGHT solve the problem. I've replaced every hose, got a new carb, adjusted carb everyway in the book, played with timing, ALMOST everything possible and it still boils away. I have not relocated the fuel line so you might want to try doing that first and see if that solves the problem.

. . . do this!!!

[jvandyke]

I have my fuel line running straight through the radiator firewall where some wires were already going (right below alternator and such) then across the nose and back through the opening for the air filter snorkle then to the carb. I moved the fuel inlet to the outboard side of the carb (your's probably is already there).

[gt crazy]

I got the glass fuel filter on it already and it didnt help none. Like I said only thing I havent done was play with the actual fuel line

[hrcollinsjr]

Years ago when I was having problems with my GT not starting on occasion I tested the fuel pump pressure and found it to be within specs pressure wise. Later on I pulled a new looking fuel pump from a parts car and installed it. Problem solved. FWIW, I never changed the routeing of my fuel lines or added any type of insulation to them.

Harold

[bigjim5551212]

I would bet 5 cents its this problem

1) There is a vacuum leak from a brake hose, or a crack in a manifold or the base gasket on the carb is shot. Even a bad intake manifold gasket will do this. if there is a spacer on the bottom of the carb, that could be leaking as well.

[BDD]

Yep. Might as well check those things as very likely causes. I think the thick carburetor gasket would be a good thing if he doesn't have one on already.