intake temp....

krewzer · 06-02-2008

How hot will the GT intake get on a performance modified street setup? I'm looking at using Lab-Metal to smooth the transitions inside the intake after bolting in a sculpted aluminum tent. I have the regular Lab-Metal that is good to 350 deg. constant, but the Hi-temp Lab-Metal is good to 1000 deg. after an hour of curing at 450 deg. I don't want to weld, as the no-step intake is getting harder to find, and I worry about warping.

jeff denton · 06-02-2008

You would think that the hottest it could ever get is just above 200 degrees. This would happen just after the engine is shut off and heat soaks into it from the exhaust manifold and head. While running it should be cool as it's got lots of air flowing through it.

krewzer · 06-02-2008

Thanks Jeff. That will work!

GTJIM · 06-03-2008

Any "loose" stuff inside intake manifolds ends up inside the motor!

Then gets hammered into the valve seats and/or trapped between the piston top and the head.

There is very little air flow on the boundary layers anyway - so 'blending' does very little to help air flow ... it is the basic shape of the 'tent' which has the most effect. Its major purposes are to simply reduce plenum volume and direct liquid fuel away from the intake manifold bottom. A bit of turbulence is good there to help get any fuel back into the air flow.

krewzer · 06-03-2008

So Jim, if my sculpted tent is a close fit, and the sides are concave, then I should just bolt it in and call it quits? I can do that! What should be done about the vacuum port that connects to the rocker cover? It will be blocked when the piece is installed. I haven't been able to find a post that addressed that issue. Maybe a groove at the end of the piece, running perpendicular to the port, that will be open to runners 1 & 4? it's just a wee hole that comes thru. There may be just enough gap at that end to suffice. Any problems there?

GTJIM · 06-04-2008

One hesitates to call the CIH motor internal ventilation system "positive" - one of the great Opel mysteries is how it actually works ...

Guess that wee port inside the intake plenum does need to be open to the cylinders ... just a wee bit cut off the end of the 'tent' or a groove filed along the end should work ... (er ... may work!) ...

RallyBob · 06-04-2008

The hottest the intake will get is after you shut off the engine. How hot? Hot enough to instantly boil water if you spill it on the intake, and hot enough to eventually loosen epoxy after enough heat cycles.

06-02-2008	#1 (permalink)
krewzer Opeler Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Sugar Land, Texas Posts: 235 Real Name: Wes Thomas Provided Answers: 2	Unanswered: intake temp.... How hot will the GT intake get on a performance modified street setup? I'm looking at using Lab-Metal to smooth the transitions inside the intake after bolting in a sculpted aluminum tent. I have the regular Lab-Metal that is good to 350 deg. constant, but the Hi-temp Lab-Metal is good to 1000 deg. after an hour of curing at 450 deg. I don't want to weld, as the no-step intake is getting harder to find, and I worry about warping.

06-02-2008	#2 (permalink)
jeff denton former opel racer Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: near some glaciers Posts: 2,863 Real Name: Jeff "Oh-Oh" Denton Provided Answers: 4	You would think that the hottest it could ever get is just above 200 degrees. This would happen just after the engine is shut off and heat soaks into it from the exhaust manifold and head. While running it should be cool as it's got lots of air flowing through it. __________________ No Opels were harmed in the filming of this movie. However two Mustangs, a Pinto, and a Capri were hospitalized. One Mustang was euthanized the next morning.

06-03-2008	#4 (permalink)
GTJIM Old Opeler Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: New Zealand Posts: 5,686 Provided Answers: 12	Just Bolt It! Any "loose" stuff inside intake manifolds ends up inside the motor! Then gets hammered into the valve seats and/or trapped between the piston top and the head. There is very little air flow on the boundary layers anyway - so 'blending' does very little to help air flow ... it is the basic shape of the 'tent' which has the most effect. Its major purposes are to simply reduce plenum volume and direct liquid fuel away from the intake manifold bottom. A bit of turbulence is good there to help get any fuel back into the air flow. __________________ GTJim Opel Owner since last Century! Copyright © 2000-2009 J D Henry All Rights Reserved

06-04-2008	#6 (permalink)
GTJIM Old Opeler Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: New Zealand Posts: 5,686 Provided Answers: 12	Opel Mystery ... One hesitates to call the CIH motor internal ventilation system "positive" - one of the great Opel mysteries is how it actually works ... Guess that wee port inside the intake plenum does need to be open to the cylinders ... just a wee bit cut off the end of the 'tent' or a groove filed along the end should work ... (er ... may work!) ... __________________ GTJim Opel Owner since last Century! Copyright © 2000-2009 J D Henry All Rights Reserved

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06-02-2008	#3 (permalink)
krewzer Opeler Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Sugar Land, Texas Posts: 235 Real Name: Wes Thomas Provided Answers: 2	Thanks Jeff. That will work!

06-03-2008	#5 (permalink)
krewzer Opeler Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Sugar Land, Texas Posts: 235 Real Name: Wes Thomas Provided Answers: 2	So Jim, if my sculpted tent is a close fit, and the sides are concave, then I should just bolt it in and call it quits? I can do that! What should be done about the vacuum port that connects to the rocker cover? It will be blocked when the piece is installed. I haven't been able to find a post that addressed that issue. Maybe a groove at the end of the piece, running perpendicular to the port, that will be open to runners 1 & 4? it's just a wee hole that comes thru. There may be just enough gap at that end to suffice. Any problems there?

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