Weber 32/36 tuning

[BlitzGT]

Anyone know how to do it? I'm sure it needs it...hasn't been touched in a decade. I can do SU's, holley, and carter, but havent done any webers.

[BQS4]

Basically you remove the top of the weber (don't have to take the carb off the car) make a drawing of the various locations of the jets and their sizes. Do a search on the site here, I think the thread is something like "all these jets". Then order a few sizes from Mr. Gabrielle in Italy and swap/test drive/swap till you get the right combo.

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by BlitzGT Anyone know how to do it? I'm sure it needs it...hasn't been touched in a decade. I can do SU's, holley, and carter, but havent done any webers.

As Gene has suggested make a note of where each jet comes from. Don't assume that the larger numbered part is for the secondary. There are some good suggestions for what jets you should be using on this site if you'll search for them. Just try to stay focused as this site is so full of useful info that it's easy to get sidetracked.

Harold

[gtblast]

I am also interested in this. I took a 32/36 off of a running 70 GT parts car and I am about to rebuild it for my 70 GT. Before I take it apart, I would like to know if it has been established what jets, etc. are the best combination for a completely stock 1970 1.9 4spd GT?
Fred

[BQS4]

Originally Posted by gtblast I am also interested in this. I took a 32/36 off of a running 70 GT parts car and I am about to rebuild it for my 70 GT. Before I take it apart, I would like to know if it has been established what jets, etc. are the best combination for a completely stock 1970 1.9 4spd GT? Fred

Fred it has been discussed in various threads that there's no one certain way to tune your 32/36. It's a trial-and-error type tuning that when done, it will best suit YOUR driving in YOUR area. What may work for someone in the Rockies, may not work for the guy in the coastal region.

[BlitzGT]

What might Mr. Gabrielle's contact info be? Or does he have a site?

[gtblast]

Originally Posted by BQS4 Fred it has been discussed in various threads that there's no one certain way to tune your 32/36. It's a trial-and-error type tuning that when done, it will best suit YOUR driving in YOUR area. What may work for someone in the Rockies, may not work for the guy in the coastal region.

BQS4, I understand and totally agree. I have read most of the Weber tuning threads, etc. I will rebuild what I have and then start my tuning from there. Thanks for your input.
Fred

[BlitzGT]

I just found a book on our bookshelf in the workshop from haynes for tuning repairing and specs for weber carbs.

[Bill Hoffmann]

There are parts and good information available from: Top-End Performance. Import Car Parts and Tuning. Weber Carbs. 818 764-1901

[Gary]

Originally Posted by Bill Hoffmann There are parts and good information available from: Top-End Performance. Import Car Parts and Tuning. Weber Carbs. 818 764-1901

And they sell a 32/36 'jet kit' for a 1.9 to your specs

[wrench459]

Dang wrong thread!!

[West Coast GT]

I don't know your experience level; however, mine is strictly shade-tree and on an as-needed basis to fix my cars since I got out of high school the year after my GT was manufactured. Forgive me if my response is too basic, I am not making a judgement on your expertise. So here is my amateur methodology of tuning my used 32/36:

1. Make sure the ignition timing is spot-on. I set it statically using a timing mark I cut and painted on the timing chain cover & main pulley. Then dynamically time the ignition using a timing gun.

2. While the engine is stone cold I adjust the water choke by loosening the retaining ring on the choke housing and twisting it slowly until the spring has enough umph to close the choke butterfly own it's own. Then tighten the ring back up snug.

3. Start and warm the engine up until the choke releases when the engine is rev'ed slightly, and opens fully.

4. Assuming it idles poorly or wants to die, adjust the idle speed screw until it idles smoothly, even though it may be too fast.

5. Adjust the idle mixture until the engine smooths out, almost stumbles, and the rich fuel smell from the exhaust is gone.

6. Adjust the idle speed screw to lower the RPMs back down. My personal comfort level is 800 to 1000. Some folks like the factory setting (750 rpm?).

7. Futz around with the idle mixture screw one last time until it's to my liking, or I decide "close enough".

8. After I've test driven it, I let it cool down overnight, pump the gas pedal once to engage the choke, and verify it has closed the butterfly.

9. I start the car and adjust the cold idle speed to 1000 - 1100 rpm before it warms up.

[BlitzGT]

My 1.9 is technically a 2.0 or above, it has 2000cc pistons in it and a fairly hot cam. My dad says timing is spot on, but it always smells just ever so slightly rich.

[hrcollinsjr]

Originally Posted by BlitzGT a fairly hot cam. My dad says timing is spot on, but it always smells just ever so slightly rich.

Isn't this a characteristic of a "hot cam"? It isn't going to be efficient at idle that was one of the things you gave up for performance.

Harold

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by BlitzGT My 1.9 is technically a 2.0 or above, it has 2000cc pistons in it and a fairly hot cam. My dad says timing is spot on, but it always smells just ever so slightly rich.

'Spot on' to what specs? If it has a hot cam, then the stock timing specs are no where near correct....

Food for thought.

Bob

[bigjim5551212]

whats your fuel pressure? and not just what the meter says.