stalling problems

[MarkRHayes]

72 gt, 2.2 liter engine, weber 38 dgas with electric fuel pump.

works great at first. the problem comes after i turn it off and then within maybe, 10 minutes, get back in and drive. takes a little longer to get it started. but once it's started, takes off okay. but once on the road, it stutters and stalls like it's having a hard time getting gas and conks out on me. a little dangerous actually. i'd like to drive the opel and not die at the same time. any ideas out there?

[hrcollinsjr]

Mark, is the tank vented properly? Fuel lines run so they don't pick up any extra heat?

Harold

[BQS4]

Also, there's a thread or two on the dreaded "fuel sock" in the GT tank that seems to be rearing it's ugly head, here of late.

[wrench459]

Originally Posted by MarkRHayes works great at first. the problem comes after i turn it off and then within maybe, 10 minutes, get back in and drive. takes a little longer to get it started. but once it's started, takes off okay. but once on the road, it stutters and stalls like it's having a hard time getting gas and conks out on me.

Humm almost sounds like a fuel foaming/vapor lock issue especially if the problem is only after a heat soak.

[bigjim5551212]

I think the you should check the internal fuel filter in the carb and also the inline filter.

[MarkRHayes]

i thought about changing the fuel filter also (external) where would an internal be? gotta look into that fuel sock.

[traytodd]

I have a similar problem with my stock 1.9L & 32/36. The initial sympton was a stall at 60 mph. Thereafter I could restart and drive about 300 yds before it stalled again. Got towed home. Now it will start and immediately stall while the choke is set and on the high idle circuit. Once warmed up, it will idle for several minutes but will not run for more than a minute at 200 rpm. I have replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump without improvement. I now have the carb disassembled. There was some sediment in the float bowl and a fair amount of rust particles and white/grey goo in the inlet filter.

While I have the carb apart I am wondering if I should rejet at this time. The jets currently are Primary/Secondary: 170/160 Air, 140/140 Main and 60/50 Idle. The car was running ok, getting 25/26 mpg. There is a fair amount of soot in the tail pipe so I suspect it is a little rich. As far as I know this is the original engine with about 128Kmi on it. If I rejet, what should be the values?

I am hoping to get the GT back on the rode soon as we have one other vehicle down at this time. They always break in pairs.

Terry

PS: My Idle adjustment screw is out about 3 revolutions which is more than the recommended 1.5.

[Paul]

There are several very detailed threads on this very subject.... you'll need to read them... but the very short story is to reduce the main primary jet from a 140 to 135. Off the top of my head, I don't remember what to change the airs to... if you find that thread it will describe everything else...

PS If you've found dirt in the carb, I'd at least remove the jets and squirt carb cleaner through the passage ways...

HTH & GL

[bigjim5551212]

On the Weber, where the fuel comes in, there is a 19mm bolt underneath there. That unscrews and there is a fine filter in there. It can get plugged up with mung if it never gets checked.

[MarkRHayes]

speaking of venting, i don't have one of those cannisters. i do have the vent hose just hanging out the bottom of the car. is that good enough? also, that "sock" everyone's talking about. is it attached to the fuel sending unit? i've replaced that but didn't see a sock in there. one last question, what is the easy fix to keep the fuel lines cool? cover them with something?

[hrcollinsjr]

The "sock" is a mesh strainer at the fuel outlet. You'll want to empty the tank and the remove the fuel line exiting from the tank to get to it. Have you checked the inlet filter at the carb itself?

Many methods of insulating the fuel line have been suggested in this forum, some as elaborate has actually using insulating wrap, rerouteing the line away from the engine, to simply using plastic split wire loom to shield it.

Harold

[traytodd]

I solved my stalling problem. It was the inlet filter to the Weber 32/36. Also the needle valve had a definite groove wore in it. I rejetted also.

Was: Pri/Sec Main 140/140, Idle 60/50, Air 170/160
Is now: Main 135/140, Idle 60/55, Air 165/160

Initially I tried it with the Primary Idle jet at 50 but could not get it to idle. The throttle screw is set at 1.5 turns from closed and the idle adjust needle valve is 2-3 turns open. Idles at 850-900 rpm. There is no lag or stumbling when I accelerate. I will watch the fuel economy over the next few weeks to see if there is any improvement from my 25-26 mpg.

I do have one lingering problem. The brass tube gas line feed into the carb seems to be leaking a small amount of fuel. Is there any way to seal this? The tube is pressed into the aluminum cover.

Also I did not plug the hole in the cover above the power valve. Is this advisable or should I leave well enough alone?

Terry

[wrench459]

Mark
Theres four or five major vents on our Loved ones depending on the model year.

Engine (crankcase vent)
Transmission
Differential
Carb bowl
Fuel tank
Carbon Canister
Master Cylinder

The easy test for the fuel tank venting is to leave the gas cap off for a few days and see if the problem reoccurs.

Like others have stated REMOVE the fuel screen from the gas tank.
You might even want to increase the id of the outlet.

[bigjim5551212]

Originally Posted by traytodd I solved my stalling problem. It was the inlet filter to the Weber 32/36. Also the needle valve had a definite groove wore in it. I rejetted also. Was: Pri/Sec Main 140/140, Idle 60/50, Air 170/160 Is now: Main 135/140, Idle 60/55, Air 165/160 Initially I tried it with the Primary Idle jet at 50 but could not get it to idle. The throttle screw is set at 1.5 turns from closed and the idle adjust needle valve is 2-3 turns open. Idles at 850-900 rpm. There is no lag or stumbling when I accelerate. I will watch the fuel economy over the next few weeks to see if there is any improvement from my 25-26 mpg. I do have one lingering problem. The brass tube gas line feed into the carb seems to be leaking a small amount of fuel. Is there any way to seal this? The tube is pressed into the aluminum cover. Also I did not plug the hole in the cover above the power valve. Is this advisable or should I leave well enough alone? Terry

You need to take the brass tube out and do one of 2 things

1)get a pipe fitting and thread the hole in the lid of the carb and then install the pipe fitting

2) get a DGAV lid and use that, they have screw in fittings/