Weber Gas Return Line

[rstrel]

After running my GT on the original Solex I had rebuilt 9 years ago, I too decided to convert to the Weber 32/36. Sure enough the installation was fairly simple and fast but I was puzzled with the fact I have one gas outlet and one gas line inlet above the little built in fuel filter(on opposite sides). I decided to cap off the gas outlet , and it does seem to run nice, but I ask myself if this is what other Opel GT owners that have converted to the Weber do? Any help is greatly appreciated!

[MICAH1]

If I understand you correctly you had some concern about the fuel inlets on the left/right sides of your weber? It is your option, but most folks connect their fuel line to the inlet closest to the passenger side. Not the one closest to the valve cover.

[rstrel]

Micah1, They're both inlets? I thought one was an inlet and the other a return line for excess fuel. Well, that explains the two arrows both pointing in!! Thanks for the info!!

[MICAH1]

It all depends on the application (car)........ That 32/36 can be used on a number of cars.

[rstrel]

Before I mounted the Weber, I tried blowing air in both of the inlets. Air moved more freely through the driver side inlet, so I reasoned this would be the correct side to hook up the fuel line. I capped off the other side, but if both sides are inlets, I'll swith to the passenger side inlet. Thanx!

[MICAH1]

The outside inlet is favored by most because it allows you to keep the gas line away from the hot exhaust manifold......

[RallyBob]

It's also a good idea to remove the pressed-in brass fittings and drill and tap for an 1/8" NPT fitting with 5/16" barb.

It's actually required for most racing classes using a 32/36 Weber because they have been known to vibrate loose and the net result is raw fuel pouring onto your exhaust manifold!

[rstrel]

Originally Posted by RallyBob It's also a good idea to remove the pressed-in brass fittings and drill and tap for an 1/8" NPT fitting with 5/16" barb. It's actually required for most racing classes using a 32/36 Weber because they have been known to vibrate loose and the net result is raw fuel pouring onto your exhaust manifold!

I hate to admit it..but after I capped of the passenger side inlet (with a rubber cap), it did fall of the next day. Luckily I smelled gas fumes and shut off the engine after a mile. Also, I guess I was lucky because the gas was shooting towards the wheel well and not towards the engine or exhaust manifold.
RallyBob..that carb looks sharp. I wish I would have known all this before I mounted the Weber.

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by rstrel I hate to admit it..but after I capped of the passenger side inlet (with a rubber cap), it did fall of the next day. Luckily I smelled gas fumes and shut off the engine after a mile. Also, I guess I was lucky because the gas was shooting towards the wheel well and not towards the engine or exhaust manifold.

Could have definitely been worse!

I wish I would have known all this before I mounted the Weber.

You only need to remove the top cover of the carburetor to do this mod. Six screws and the choke linkage and you're there....

[rstrel]

Originally Posted by RallyBob Could have definitely been worse! You only need to remove the top cover of the carburetor to do this mod. Six screws and the choke linkage and you're there....

Thanks RallyBob, its guys like you that make this a great web site!

[bigjim5551212]

on the thread in fittings, if you have 2, one will have a pin hole in it and not a normal size hole. Thats the return line.

[Redskinsjbs]

Originally Posted by RallyBob It's also a good idea to remove the pressed-in brass fittings and drill and tap for an 1/8" NPT fitting with 5/16" barb. It's actually required for most racing classes using a 32/36 Weber because they have been known to vibrate loose and the net result is raw fuel pouring onto your exhaust manifold!

Ok, two things...

First, how do you remove that pressed in inlet?

Second, may I only tap the resulting hole, or do i have to drill in order to have the proper diameter barb fitting in threaded in?

Thanks

[RallyBob]

Originally Posted by Redskinsjbs Ok, two things... First, how do you remove that pressed in inlet? Second, may I only tap the resulting hole, or do i have to drill in order to have the proper diameter barb fitting in threaded in? Thanks

I normally clamp the inlet fitting in a vise and twist the entire upper carb body to remove it. Don't clamp too tightly as the brass used tends to be brittle and overtightening it will shatter/crush it. Vise grips tend to be useless, FWIW.

I drill the hole in the carb body to size, it's a bit small for a 1/8" NPT pipe tap. Never force the tap and use a tap cutting fluid if possible, otherwise the carb body may crack!

[Redskinsjbs]

Originally Posted by RallyBob I normally clamp the inlet fitting in a vise and twist the entire upper carb body to remove it. Don't clamp too tightly as the brass used tends to be brittle and overtightening it will shatter/crush it. Vise grips tend to be useless, FWIW. I drill the hole in the carb body to size, it's a bit small for a 1/8" NPT pipe tap. Never force the tap and use a tap cutting fluid if possible, otherwise the carb body may crack!

Ok, cool.

Now just so that I don't screw up, what size drill bit?

[RallyBob]

I don't recall the size of the bit I've used in the past, however it was as big as it could be and still hold threads correctly. I just eyeball the tap and match a drill bit to it.

[wrench459]

Another option is after tapping and plugging the side inlets.
Is to run the inlet in from the bottom. Using the rochester bango fitting.

[Redskinsjbs]

Like this one?

http://www.banjovalves.com/specs/HB038-90.pdf

[wrench459]

It's not a great picture. intake :: weber 32-3x picture by wrench459 - Photobucket
But you might get the idea.

[kwilford]

Originally Posted by Redskinsjbs Ok, cool. Now just so that I don't screw up, what size drill bit?

According to my tap drill chart, an NPT 1/8" tap requires a "Q" sized dill bit, which is 0.332", 8.5 mm, or or a tiny bit smaller than 11/32".

I have scanned and attached the Tap Drill Chart that came with my tap and die set for future reference.

HTH