All these jets!!(Weber Re-Jetting)

[baronbors]

Yup- there it was- plain as day once I knew where to look. Thanks Jared. Weber DGAV 33B1. Wher does the wire come from for the choke?

[greensmurf20]

i'd like to know too, as my car is set up for a aqua choke. i was told by my father that it comes off the alternator from the low volatage post or something like that. i really dont know, it seems to me like it'd just come off a 12V power source thats only hot when the ignition is on, but like most of my hunches i'm probably wrong and the experienced father is right.

[namba209]

Hey guys, just run the wire to the line side of fuses 1-3, if you look, you'll see a black wire going to the line side of the fuses on one of the male spade lugs. That's where you want to hook up the electric choke wire. That would make it hot with the ignition on and unfused. BTW, that wire goes to a heating element under the choke housing that heats up a bi-metallic watch type spring. That spring is what opens up the choke. HTH.

Ron

[West Coast GT]

"..., but like most of my hunches i'm probably wrong and the experienced father is right."

Music to a father's ear!

[greensmurf20]

well according to namba, i'm right, and dad was wrong. of all the times i think differently than him, i admit that i'm normally wrong and i end up being right, how ironic is that?..l....lol

[tekenaar]

Originally posted by namba209 Hey guys, just run the wire to the line side of fuses 1-3, if you look, you'll see a black wire going to the line side of the fuses on one of the male spade lugs. That's where you want to hook up the electric choke wire. That would make it hot with the ignition on and unfused. BTW, that wire goes to a heating element under the choke housing that heats up a bi-metallic watch type spring. That spring is what opens up the choke. HTH. Ron

MUCH easier to run wire to plus (+) connection of the passenger-side horn (black/yellow). That's how it's wired on the stock '73 GT, the only year the GT had an electric choke. It's "switched 12V", BTW.

[namba209]

That's a good plan Otto, that also makes it a fused connection too, so if that wire ever gets disconnected and touches ground it will save the rest of the circuits when the fuse blows. It's great having someone on the list that knows all these idiosyncracies about our Opels. Thanks for the info.

Ron

[greensmurf20]

what jet sizes would you recomend for my GT?

2.0, with the 265 flat top chevy pistons. 32/36 DGAV is stamped on the carb, but its an electric choke, i plan on returning it to a aqua choke tho. i've had it running with this carb on, gotten it up to temp. it runs like crap at low RPM. you can see a stream of fuel being squirted into the primary jet when you barely have the throttle open, and it wont run under 1500RPM or so. pops out the carb now and then, pops out the exhaust now and then too. hell i even burnt ALL of the hair off my arm....LOL, i'm complaining more about the smell than loss of hair. stinks up the barn horrable, can't even keep your eyes open, and car fumes dont normally bother me. i was told the carb didnt come off a GT, and it probably didnt, it didnt have the Opel linkage. i'm guessing the jets are WAY too large? just wondering what size jets i should get for it. does fine everywhere else, just no low end.

[namba209]

Jared, run a search for the webber carb jets and see what pops up, I'm sure the jetting has been covered more than once by Otto and others. Maybe it should be put in the technical files area. I know I've seen this question numerous times. At least this will give you a ballpark area for a basic stock setup and you can at least see and compare with what's in your carb.

Ron

[opelenvy]

Originally posted by namba209 Jared, run a search for the webber carb jets and see what pops up,

Also run a search for weber jets as well. You might get some more stuff

[namba209]

Thanks George, "Fat Fingers" strikes again. I try to proof read before I submit a reply, obviously I didn't do a good job.

Ron

[tekenaar]

Originally posted by namba209 Thanks George, "Fat Fingers" strikes again. I try to proof read before I submit a reply, obviously I didn't do a good job. Ron

I'm sure that EDUARDO appreciates it as well!

[tekenaar]

Originally posted by greensmurf20 what jet sizes would you recomend for my GT? 2.0, with the 265 flat top chevy pistons. 32/36 DGAV is stamped on the carb, but its an electric choke, i plan on returning it to a aqua choke tho. i've had it running with this carb on, gotten it up to temp. it runs like crap at low RPM. you can see a stream of fuel being squirted into the primary jet when you barely have the throttle open, and it wont run under 1500RPM or so. pops out the carb now and then, pops out the exhaust now and then too. hell i even burnt ALL of the hair off my arm....LOL, i'm complaining more about the smell than loss of hair. stinks up the barn horrable, can't even keep your eyes open, and car fumes dont normally bother me. i was told the carb didnt come off a GT, and it probably didnt, it didnt have the Opel linkage. i'm guessing the jets are WAY too large? just wondering what size jets i should get for it. does fine everywhere else, just no low end.

Go back in this thread to page 2, post #6 (mine) and all will become clear. What's listed there (New Config) should be VERY CLOSE to being dead on for your engine too.

Contact Gabrielle's site (Italy) for parts.

[greensmurf20]

thanks otto, i'll tear the carb off and see what jets its got in it tonight and compare them to what you listed, and i'll buy what i need from a local "Lane's Automotive" its the local race shop, pretty big place, they should have them. if not i'll go to your recomended place.

[opeldean]

i had a buddy pull apart my carb.i am taping it for Us on this site.

he wanted to know what you guys would advise on my jetting.

he thought i was running lean, he said my idle speed screw was bottomed out(idle set too fast).."must be a problem somewhere".

my engine is a stock 1.9-1970 hi compression engine,weber 32-36 dgev.

he also mentioned "the brass tube modification..that goes from the main bowl to the secondary?..that helps in midrange power when vacuum drops low...is anyone here familiar with that mod?"

[opelenvy]

racetep.com includes with the instructions a part on removing the tube and filling the hole with JB weld.

If not done you will run way rich. It disables the power valve.

[RallyBob]

It actually doesn't disable the power valve, that circuit is cast into the carb body and is separate from the brass tube. What it does do is disable the 'high-speed enrichment' circuit which never did work too well anyway.....

Without a power valve, no amount of jetting will compensate for the horrendous bog you'd have without it...

[opeldean]

my plan is to not disable the power valve.. i do not want a racing application.

opel envy..i believe we are talking about two differnent things...
we are possibly adding a brass( testors hobby tube) not plugging..
apparently it is written the the MG literature somewhere...for those that run webbers on their mg...claimed as faster lap times..

my mechanic thought it would be an interesting "tidbit for the site.. that is not well known"

[opeldean]

opel envy:can you post the racetep instructions..so i can show my mechanic?

hole plugging? i dont think that is in the plan for mine...he just mentioned adding a tube out of the bowl...said it is in a book somewhere...


volunteers? I also could use an volunteer to eval my rough footage.(or i will just put it together on my newby own)

my mechanic diassembled my carb in 25 min..so i have 25 min of film..he thinks the reassembly will take twice as long..then i will put the carb back on and jet it in his shop..he is unfamiliar with opel so i appreciate any recommendations on what you all recommend..opel envy: how is yours running?..didnt you have a hesitation to work out?

advise..so i can steamline professional shop time

[opeldean]

Originally posted by baz otto's right the emulsion tubes will be diff on a 32/36 as they need to do diff jobs than a Dgas

for what its worth-
i just talked to racetep..they said emulsion tubes are the same
on a 32/36 which is a 50..i dont know if racetep is gospel...

[opelenvy]

Originally posted by bucky opel envy:can you post the racetep instructions..so i can show my mechanic? hole plugging? i dont think that is in the plan for mine...he just mentioned adding a tube out of the bowl...said it is in a book somewhere...

Bucky, did you get what you wanted from Racetep? I've been too busy lately to do anything. Sorry for not getting back to you on this sooner. If you still need what they sent me I can dig it up and scan it.
When you separate the top of the carb from the bottom you can't miss the tube. It is the only one between the two sides of the carb. They recommend with their jet kit to pull the brass tube and fill the hole with JB weld. Voila, done!

[opeldean]

I ordered the list of jets that otto recommended here somewhere in a thread i cant find anymore.

opelenvy:i was curious if you got your car running the way you wanted it to.


I am going to use otto's jet recommendation as a starting point.


then i am going to have a mechanic tune it while I watch and video tape it.

[opelenvy]

Well I thought I did have it right. Then I didn't drive it for two weeks or so, and now it seems off again. I am very busy lately and the GT is getting neglected. I haven't really got a chance to test it out and tune it yet. I TRY to get out at least every other weekend and drive it for an hour or so.
Sorry I don't really have any answer for you. I don't think even a mechanic can just sit down and tune the car though. It takes driving in between adjustments to feel if you got things right. It is not a quick task. IMHO

[opeldean]

Originally Posted by tekenaar New Config is: Primary (32): Main 135; Air 165; Idle 50 Secondary (36): Main 140; Air 160; Idle 55

I used this jet configuration for 5 of my 6 jets(the one exception is I had to stick with my current unmarked idle jet in the primary with the california soleniod attached..i have a california carb and i think this jet has to be special ordered to fit the CA solenoid)..

With these T-jets ..my car kicks ass (relative to itself)and one would swear its a new engine...I thought my car ran ok before...but it always had an old feel to it..like it labored in the upper rpm ranges.I felt like it was going to throw a rod or fall apart above 5,000 rpms, it just felt like an old car...well my opel friends, no more!...I have quit dreaming about the extra 2.2 cih engine in opeler tomking's garage in joplin mo...I quit shopping or thinking about an overhaul or a new head.(for now at least)

i dont know what to credit as I changed 3 factors all at once..and a big noticeable jump happened
1-sprint exhaust manifold
2-HEAVILY ported the intake with the JB diverter
3-tekenaar jets..i am using almost exactly as above on my weber 32-36 with rebuild
... prior to this very small jumps happened with each of the following
4-pertronix and flamethrower coil..not much for me
5-2in exhaust and free flow muffler from y pipe back...y- pipe opened up at junction..sounded better..sounded faster

i have driven the car approx 150 miles in the last 2 days..gas mileage is looking good too.Car will dart in and out of traffic and
I have enough "chuff" to go as fast or as quick as I want to go.
car doesnt feel labored in all the rpm ranges...it doesn't feels likes its going to fall apart at yellow line.

I have a getrag 5 speed,in 4 gear at 65mph..car pulls strong..

you can also put in in 4th at 1,500 rpms and it pulls fine.

I will try to post a longer video..as i take the car thru its paces..

if you go to my members album...I hope you get a feel of the life in this car..see video called Tekenaar jets..

maybe its a combination of all 5 factors..these are the bolt on upgrades in this website "tgsi recommendations.I think".

the engine is strong,smooth and it begs you to floor it...I am parking my 89 buick winter rust bucket car for the summer..for me, the opel will be my daily driver till december...what could be better?

No a/c is no problem...I found I enjoy the cooler summer air in the mornings..i park on a lot..but cover it. Its hot on the drive home..but I kinda like it..makes walking in to an A/C house and a cold beer all the better.Makes Summer feel like summer.

My only regret is that I didnt take a stopwatch and run some time tests...to quantify(tate) what I am sensing from the car and these changes.

all I can say is..car's engine feels new..thanks to the info and helpers on this site.

[madhatterpdc]

My post here is partially motivated by "bumping" this thread to make sure that more people read it, it covers a lot of questions very well.

The rest of my motivation comes from the fact that I just ordered a rebuild kit and "performance jet kit" for my 32/36 from Racetep (they also had a air filter and housing in stock to). I just finished reading the Haynes Weber Carb and the Braden/HPBooks Weber Carb books. From what I have read in those books, plus what I read on this site (specifically this thread), and what I have learned from Racetep, I have a few comments/questions.

I am under the impression that the Racetep's mod to JB Weld shut the hi-speed enrichment circuit was to keep the engine from stumbling on right-hand turns. Most noticable on a carb that is already rich, on a properly adjusted carb, you would only see a drop in power, again only on right-hand turns.

The next thing that I was wondering about is the emulsion tubes. Most references that I have reviewed recommend staying away from swapping the emulsion tube until dead-last, mostly becuase the effect from one to another is so subtle. Another factor is the naming conventions for emulsion tubes has little to do with rates of "bubbling". Once everything is set dead-on, then you can look at switching the emulsion tubes, and even then it is done most effectively on a dyno and with a gas analyzer on the tailpipe.

Am I misinterpreting what I am reading, or did I actually absorb and comprehend something?