Weber 32/36 Running Too Rich
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Thread: Weber 32/36 Running Too Rich

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    Who you callin' a noob? ubernoob51 is on a distinguished road ubernoob51's Avatar
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    Weber 32/36 Running Too Rich

    Recently, I ran my GT, which has a Weber 32/36 DGAV 4D, and it was running so rich there was smoke coming out of the exhaust. I tried screwing the idle mixture screw in all the way, but it made no difference. Do the screws that are midway up the carb body control fuel mixture? If they are loose, will it affect fuel mixture at idle?

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    Tennessean Site Supporter My location hrcollinsjr will become famous soon enough hrcollinsjr will become famous soon enough hrcollinsjr's Avatar
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    Are you referring to the rather large brass idle jet screw holders that have O-rings under the head to seal them?

    I think I would look for a stuck needle valve. While I had the top of the carb off, I'd go ahead and verify that everything else looked good.

    Check the power valve out good while you're there.

    Harold

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    Who you callin' a noob? ubernoob51 is on a distinguished road ubernoob51's Avatar
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    Yes, I tightened those down and it seems to run a little leaner, but I want to set the timing and make sure that's set before I run the car anymore. I haven't pulled off the top of the carb recently, but the last time it was off the car everything seemed in order.

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    1000 Post Club My location grslightng02 is on a distinguished road
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    We pulled this carb and this is the mystery Weber 32/36 DGAV carb that has the thinner shorter idle mixture screw that disappears into the carb, and the idle speed screw that is behind the electronic choke. We pulled the carb and other than those two oddities things look normal. Neither of us however rebuilt this carb or knows where or what it came from. Could be the wrong model and style of 32/36 altogether.

    Once you have a timing light we can try to reset the timing and then we can properly adjust the idle mixture and idle speed screws since we know where they are at. The other thing I would be curious to try is disconnecting the fuel inlet line from the fuel pump and putting a new temporary fuel line into a small gas tank with fresh new gas.
    We have no idea how long that current gas has been sitting in the tank and if it didn't have a fuel stabilizer put in it that could be causing problems. I did notice when the car was running (running rich) there was a LOT of moisture condensation coming out of the exhaust.

    As far as the fan speed, since you know the fan works on the high setting, you may want to pull the dash back and hook up the amp meter to the fan switch. See how much it reads when the fan is on high, and how much it reads on low. It may just be that the fan switch contacts on the low setting are worn out, and nothing is wrong with the fan itself.

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    Quote Originally Posted by grslightng02 View Post
    We pulled this carb and this is the mystery Weber 32/36 DGAV carb that has the thinner shorter idle mixture screw that disappears into the carb, and the idle speed screw that is behind the electronic choke. We pulled the carb and other than those two oddities things look normal. Neither of us however rebuilt this carb or knows where or what it came from. Could be the wrong model and style of 32/36 altogether.
    what would be the right 32/36 carb ?
    what would be the right jets to use in the 1.9 ?
    Last edited by RallyBob; 03-27-2012 at 12:58 PM.
    ..being poor just means you will try harder

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    Not sure on the specs. I'm sure it's been written in many forum discussions. But from what I have read, oversized jets in the carb allow too much flow of fuel through... regardless of how lean you set the fuel mixture screw.

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    Quote Originally Posted by grslightng02 View Post
    Not sure on the specs. I'm sure it's been written in many forum discussions. But from what I have read, oversized jets in the carb allow too much flow of fuel through... regardless of how lean you set the fuel mixture screw.
    i would like to know if i have the right 32 36 dgev cab you have me need to know how to tell and what to look for so i know i have the right one i thought a 32-36 weber is a 32-36 weber the one i have is off a chevy lov /iezzu motor i think that is what is in the lov s it is a after market meaning it did not come with the lov geune weber not a convertion real weber like 1 year old weber
    ..being poor just means you will try harder

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    Quote Originally Posted by enu View Post
    i thought a 32-36 weber is a 32-36 weber the one i have is off a chevy lov /iezzu motor i think that is what is in the lov s it is a after market meaning it did not come with the lov geune weber not a convertion real weber like 1 year old weber
    32/36 DG* Webers are basically the same. There may be small differences but that doesn't mean they are 'wrong' for our application. If you have a Weber 32/36 DG* adjusted properly with the correct jetting then you're good to go.

    Harold
    wrench459 likes this.

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    The timing is now set correctly. The screw that we thought to be the speed screw I think is the high idle speed screw, before we screwed it in, the high idle speed on a cold engine was ~2300 rpm. Now when it has a cold start, the engine RPM shoots up to ~4000 and it stays that way until you give it throttle and the choke opens. And when it idles, there's a fair bit of smoke, but when you give it throttle, it smokes like a freight train. I took off the number 1 spark plug when I was setting the timing, and it's black.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hrcollinsjr View Post
    32/36 DG* Webers are basically the same. There may be small differences but that doesn't mean they are 'wrong' for our application. If you have a Weber 32/36 DG* adjusted properly with the correct jetting then you're good to go.

    Harold
    thanks he had me confused for some time .i to for years though a 32-36 or 38 or a 40 weber is the same .not in the same class. but a weber that can be used .and when i seen that idid not want to say no that is not right.i am not the type to say someone is not right with that ancer .becouse it can be a possibility in some cases. but what he was saying just did not sound right .so i asked those qustions .thanks for clearing that up .i would hate to see that guy go out and spend more money. when it was not needed
    ..being poor just means you will try harder

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    It's a Weber 32/36 DGAV 4D. By the way does anyone know what size Idle Jets are on the Weber 32/36 we commonly use on our GT's?

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    Just an old fart My location wrench459 will become famous soon enough wrench459's Avatar
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    I've never understood this hyper- fascination with carb jetting.
    The main function of a carb. is to mix the proper amount of fuel for a given amount
    of air flow.

    Key word in the last statement is air flow.

    So could you install a Q-Jet 4 bbl. carb and make it work on small displacement
    engine? I say sure!
    Black Horse

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    Quote Originally Posted by wrench459 View Post
    I've never understood this hyper- fascination with carb jetting.
    The main function of a carb. is to mix the proper amount of fuel for a given amount
    of air flow.

    Key word in the last statement is air flow.

    So could you install a Q-Jet 4 bbl. carb and make it work on small displacement
    engine? I say sure!
    Yes Wrench but the problem is that this carb was apparently a water choke to begin with, converted by some previous owner to an electric choke along with who knows what other modifications. Including perhaps jets that are too large and allowing too much fuel through thereby throwing off the ratio of fuel/air mixture. We're trouble shooting and trying to figure out why his car is running so rich. The carb and incorrect jets could be one of the things contributing, or not, and we need more info so we can scratch this off the list and get closer to resolving this problem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by grslightng02 View Post
    The carb and incorrect jets could be one of the things contributing, or not, and we need more info so we can scratch this off the list and get closer to resolving this problem.
    Keep plugging away with the problem.
    It sounds like it's in capable hands.

    High CO is always the carb's fault.
    High HC can go both ways.
    If it's overly rich it will cause a missfire.
    Most of the time a large HC reading is because of a ignition problem.

    Bet that the NOX reading is very low......
    Black Horse

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    Standard jetting of a 32/36

    Quote Originally Posted by grslightng02 View Post
    It's a Weber 32/36 DGAV 4D. By the way does anyone know what size Idle Jets are on the Weber 32/36 we commonly use on our GT's?
    I believe that these are the commonly accepted jets for a 1.9 with a Weber 32/36:

    F-66 emulsion tubes
    140 mains
    50 idles
    170 air primary
    160 air secondary

    Power valve spring may need to be shortened to control too rich idle and stumble at start off.
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    Quote Originally Posted by thescifiguy View Post

    Power valve spring may need to be shortened to control too rich idle and stumble at start off.
    Depends on the camshaft and idle vacuum.
    hrcollinsjr likes this.
    Black Horse

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    Quote Originally Posted by thescifiguy View Post
    I believe that these are the commonly accepted jets for a 1.9 with a Weber 32/36:

    F-66 emulsion tubes
    140 mains
    50 idles
    170 air primary
    160 air secondary
    Typically what I install with the exception of the primary idle which I increase to a 55 or 60 jet. Best idle should be acheived with the mixture screw between 1.5 to 2.0 turns out which dictates whether I use a 55 or 60 idle jet. YMMV

    Harold

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    Lightbulb Two pics should answer much . . .

    Quote Originally Posted by ubernoob51 View Post
    Recently, I ran my GT, which has a Weber 32/36 DGAV 4D, and it was running so rich there was smoke coming out of the exhaust. I tried screwing the idle mixture screw in all the way, but it made no difference. Do the screws that are midway up the carb body control fuel mixture? If they are loose, will it affect fuel mixture at idle?




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    Thanks Tekenaar. Unfortunately the Idle Speed Screw that you point out on your pic is not in the design of the carb Alex has. There's a fixed metal stop where the screw should go. And the Idle Mixture screw does not have a spring, it is much thinner screw, with a thinner thread and the top of the screw head screws in below the hole. No remaining screw head sticks out.

    This is what had us stumped in the past. I'm guessing this is some weird off model that was designed that way. We have found the Idle Speed Screw behind the (now) converted electric choke.

    BTW how did you get such a brilliant shiny carb??? paint? powder coat?

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    Quote Originally Posted by grslightng02 View Post
    Thanks Tekenaar. Unfortunately the Idle Speed Screw that you point out on your pic is not in the design of the carb Alex has. There's a fixed metal stop where the screw should go. And the Idle Mixture screw does not have a spring, it is much thinner screw, with a thinner thread and the top of the screw head screws in below the hole. No remaining screw head sticks out.
    Can you remove the metal stop and replace it with an adjustment screw & spring? I picked up a Weber some time back I believe with a idle mixture screw similar to what you are describing with the exception that it had a plastic plug (emission thing) that I had to remove before I could adjust it.
    Quote Originally Posted by grslightng02 View Post
    This is what had us stumped in the past. I'm guessing this is some weird off model that was designed that way. We have found the Idle Speed Screw behind the (now) converted electric choke.
    I believe you are referring to the fast idle screw for cold start idle speed w/choke.

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