rebuilding a weber 32-36 dgev

[opeldean]

i think i need to rebuilid my weber . i have studied the haynes manual a bit. i think i have read enough ..i want to jump in...

its hard to start when engine is hot,seems to loose its prime..but likes to start with starting fluid...runs great once started..poor mileage..cARB HAS AT LEAST 70,OOO MILES ON IT...
FED BY rusty tank..for a while..

i think i would like to start a thread and photograph each step of the disasembly ( for future generations,etc).

do you all feel like you are familiar enough to help me thru it?

i will order a kit...should i get the biggest kit?

i did a search..i didnt see a thread on step by step rebuild...

[kwilford]

Great idea, bucky. I moved this to the "Fuel System" group, and if this thread goes well, I will copy it to the FAQ section.
I just bought a brand new 38 DGAS, but I have at least one 32/36 DGAV that could use a rebuild. And while I have done the basics, such as replace the needle and seat and adjusted the float, such things as the acceleration pumps and re-jetting have eluded me so far. And any additions that members have regarding jetting and emulsion tubes (and clipping power valve springs and other nebulous items of Weber trivia) would be most appreciated.

[tekenaar]

Originally posted by kwilford Great idea, bucky. I moved this to the "Fuel System" group, and if this thread goes well, I will copy it to the FAQ section. I just bought a brand new 38 DGAS, but I have at least one 32/36 DGAV that could use a rebuild. And while I have done the basics, such as replace the needle and seat and adjusted the float, such things as the acceleration pumps and re-jetting have eluded me so far. And any additions that members have regarding jetting and emulsion tubes (and clipping power valve springs and other nebulous items of Weber trivia) would be most appreciated.

Already done:

32/36 Jetting and Tuning.

[opeldean]

i will order from pierce manifold today.

to top it off,i will video tape some clips,it will motivate me to learn how to edit it and put it on this site..at one time gary thought we could out up video.

[likengtj]

Bucky,

Carb rebuilding was my first project a year ago. From a scale of 1 -5, 5 being most difficulty I'll give a 3. Keep in mind this rating is not for tunning it, that a different story.
I recommend you getting a good schematic diagram of your particular carb (mine is the old 32/36 DGV manual choke). Do a google search and you'll find them. If I find the particular site, i'll post it later.

On thing to pay particular attention to are the jet sizes. If and when you take them out, make sure you label each one. They look almost the same, but as you probably already know they are not.

Good luck! and keep us posted!

[tekenaar]

Originally posted by likengtj Bucky, Carb rebuilding was my first project a year ago. From a scale of 1 -5, 5 being most difficulty I'll give a 3. Keep in mind this rating is not for tunning it, that a different story. I recommend you getting a good schematic diagram of your particular carb (mine is the old 32/36 DGV manual choke). Do a google search and you'll find them. If I find the particular site, i'll post it later. On thing to pay particular attention to are the jet sizes. If and when you take them out, make sure you label each one. They look almost the same, but as you probably already know they are not. Good luck! and keep us posted!

32/36 schematic diagram link

[houserc]

Bucky,

There is a great Carb cleaner at most Auto parts stores, Advanced Auto comes to mind. It comes in about a gallon can, that looks kind of like a paint can. Inside is a screened container to put small parts in and lower them into the solution. This is great for all you'll have coming out of your carb.

I would also find some good, low lint rags to work with. You don't want small lint particles in the small orifices.

It would help to have some compressed air around to help blow out some of those orifices.

It'll be similar to your day job. You could just take your parts to work during down time.

Have fun,
Chris

[opeldean]

i have just added a "brood " light from the farm supply store.i like it...its got a good clamp,good cord,and a good wing nut..the christmas time lights are no good by comparison.

i centered it so it hits my carb.i am getting ready to film this historic event. when you hit 40..your eyes go to crap. light is the biggest problem working in the garage for me. i have a bank of lights on a power strip over head,less cords on floor. i reach up and flip the switch and i have light.

i ordered my carburetor rebuild kit..i called..they answered the phone,they sent it out same day...amazing..not like "some" of our opel vendors..i got if from peerless..as recommended by oldopel guy in a prior post.

[opeldean]

here is where I am at.

I have a mechanic who says he will let me video tape while he
rebuilds my 32-36...we are going to do it on 2 nights in his shop.

I can edit video faster than I can muddle thru this rebuild.I can put it in a computer file that we can view.

he says he will answer all the hows and whys during the process.

he rebuilds english cars for a living..he has a lot of experience on webers.

Once I Get the video edited ..how can i get to the members?

I can make duplicate disks and mail..but I think it might be better if Gary
can somehow put it on his server..so we can all access it without
the expense of shipping and trouble of handling.

Gary how much space can you provide?

send me questions you want answered during the process:

I plan to start in the next few days...i am going to pull the carb and take it to his shop real soon.


I dont know how much I can get answered on jetting...
but we could probably use some help on this.

[opeldean]

i do not know what i am doing..if there is anything i need to know
let me know...before i goof up..I meet my mechanic on tues night..
so i have to know the terminology and basics before i get there.

[opeldean]

here is where i am at on my knowledge

[opeldean]

next one

[jordan]

It looks like you have the dgev (electric valve) opposed to the dgav (aqua valve) that is the choke and it will open as the engine warms up if it was the AV but the EV I think opens after 15 minutes reguardless of the engine temp. I believe the 32mm is closest to the valve cover, and the further one is the 36mm the reason why one is black is probably due to it being a progressive carburator and its building up carbon from a poor tune.

[opeldean]

today ..my engine was warmed after a 40 min trip. i shut engine off.

it was boiling gas,the choke(butterflies) was open,and it would not start...

can you explain this?

[opeldean]

puddle of gas in intake

[opeldean]

sprint is going on

[BQS4]

Bucky;
The thermo housing (water valve you call it) does not have to come off, but, it helps.
Gene

[baz]

bucky
the 32 side will get blacker as it pulls most of the air into the engine (unless you only drive with your foot planted in the carpet all the time ) so any oil vapor and stuff from the vents go down that choke
for q.3 first do you use a thermal isolator block between the manifold and the carb ?
this is like a 3/8" block of plastic with a gasket on both sides
it is made to isolate the carb from the heat soak of the engine and must be used to keep the carb cool
if you are putting a sprint manifold on you will fix some of the problem as there is only heat soak from the inlet manifold then
and yes the choke butterflys are only closed when the engine is cold
if the carb has been boiloing the fuel then it will give you a puddle of fuel in the manifold but to get rid of it you need to stop the boiling first (its not a danger as it is pulled into the pistons when you first crank the engine to start it )

[opeldean]

yes..i could HEAR it boiling yesterday for the first time ..there is no heat shield and
no thick gasket ..just a thin one...

thanks Baz..you were right on it seems

[opeldean]

ID of parts

[Jeff Pozorski]

Hi Bucky,
An easy way to remember which barrel is which on a Weber is that the 32/36 numbers refer to the size of the barrels in millimeters. So the smaller barrel is the 32mm and the larger barrel is the 36mm.
I am looking forward to you completing your project so I can rebuild by Weber and not screw things up.

[opeldean]

what is the order..parts wont fit w/o adjustments

[opeldean]

manifold
then thick phenolic ..then heatshield then weber gasket...but it wont fit for me

[opeldean]

advise

[opeldean]

old opel guy said i might run into to this..he appears right