New Weber inbound

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by GoinManta One word.. Vacuum Leak. Look for all the fittings and make sure ones not unplugged. Especially the one on the manifold behind the carb between the carb and the head. What I have done to get a good seal is this combination: 1 - 1/8" Thick "fluffy" Paper Gasket 1b - Indian Head Shellac or Aircraft assembly glue (both at local auto stores) 2 - 1/4" Thick Felpro gasket with the nylon washers (Pinto gasket) 2b - Indian Head Shellac or Aircraft assembly glue (both at local auto stores) 3 - 1/8" Thick "fluffy" Paper Gasket Those that only use the thin gaskets don't have enough material to get a good seal if you should have a slighty unsquare Weber bottom or intake face. The thick Ford gasket, has those nylon washers that can keep you from tightening good enough for a perfect seal. Using the three in combination give you a real tight seal and enough material to lock down the nuts and never have to worry again. . . . . So be sure to check thier tightness every so often and you may want to use a little low strength lock-tite.

What about NO is not understood!!!

Reasons, complete with pics (8th post), already addressed in another 32/36 thread here!

[GoinManta]

Originally Posted by tekenaar What about NO is not understood!!! Reasons, complete with pics, already addressed in another 32/36 thread here!

Hmm... someone using too much? I have NEVER had a problem. Indian head works great.

But too much of a good thing can be a bad thing.

Also I glue the assembly together and let it get really tacky and use it in a very very thin application to both sides of the gaskets.

I have used the thin weber/Pinto/thin weber combination on 6 cars, none have had a problem nor did they have a vaccum leak or thier carbs come loose. Also the thick pinto gasket provides a thermal buffer for the carb.

What the link "with pictures". Just curious to see what the person did.

Charles

[Travis]

Originally Posted by tekenaar What about NO is not understood!!! Reasons, complete with pics, already addressed in another 32/36 thread here!

Charles does have the right to voice his opinion here, even if it's different than yours. Chill out!!

-Travis

[GoinManta]

Otto, I can't find any posts you mentioned.

[jerseyopel]

It was a week ago posted by bosco, otto shows a picture of the underside of the carb. Decaf anyone??

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by GoinManta Otto, I can't find any posts you mentioned.

Updated previous post in this thread with link.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by jerseyopel It was a week ago posted by bosco, otto shows a picture of the underside of the carb. Decaf anyone??

3 cups . . . Hmmmm, THAT ought to do it!

[bozkm]

When I said "reseal", I didn't mean I was using sealant...I was going to replace the Weber gaskets with a flepro one from a Pinto. I was goinig to use sealant on the intake manifold to head, if possible. So my question is really about the spacer and the heat shield.

If gasket sequence it small gasket, heat shield, large gasket, carb, do I need the 1/4" or so spacer provided in my kit...and will the weber gaskets be "sufficient" for the small gasket part.

And, does the heat shield need to be modified, since it seems to be a touch smaller than the carb throats.

Thanks,.

[GoinManta]

Ahh... I see the problem.

Notice:

Carb - fluffy gasket - indian head - pinto gasket - indian head - fluffy gasket.

I use the sealer between the gaskets and not ON the carb.

1) Apply very thin so its transparent (Indian Head has the consistancy of sticky shoe polish)

2) Indian head drys' fast and hard, its not "gooey" like silicone or permatex.

3) Allow the gasket combo to dry before installing.

This gives a nice thick gasket that seals on both sides and gives the larger thermo break.

Usually at worse if the sealer squeezes out, is just barely noticable. and then drys hard virtually instantly.

As for the heat sheild, using the pinto gasket you can loose it. I have a 2.0L with a 40DGAV and no heat problems.

Charles

[bozkm]

Well, looks like I won't be able to fix the carb this weekend, all the auto stores have to special order that Felpro Pinto gasket.....

[GoinManta]

Go to an Advance Auto if you have one, they can usually get anything in 24 hours.

Charles

[bozkm]

I think I have found the problem. After calling Dennis at OGTS to see about ording gaskets, I explained the problem I was having. He mentioned something about an idle solinoid....which, he explained, I have..and additional electrical outlet, next to the electric choke. I guess I was sent a California Smog legal carb. Since I didn't have 12 volts going to this, he said it would not idle, hard to start, etc. He is now sending me a normal jet holder to replace this with. In the meantime this weekend, I will try to hook up that to 12volts of power, and see (hope) it clears it up.

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by bozkm I think I have found the problem. After calling Dennis at OGTS to see about ording gaskets, I explained the problem I was having. He mentioned something about an idle silinoid....what he explained, I have..and additional electrical outlet, next to the electric choke. I guess I was sent a California Smog legal carb. Since I didn't have 12 volts going to this, he said it would not idle, hard to start, etc. He is now sending me a normal jet holder to replace this with. In the meantime this weekend, I will try to hook up that to 12volts of power, and see (hope) it clears it up.

That would be the ICO (Idle Cut Off) solenoid. That solenoid cuts off the idle circuit in the primary COMPLETELY if it has no "switched 12V" (ignition on). Was originally done as a smog device to prevent engine "run-on" (dieseling).

[bozkm]

Good..I'm hoping that hooking it up will fix it until I get the jet holder from OGTS. Will hook it up to the horn along with the choke as I've seen in other posts.

Now guys, talk to me about the heat shield..do I have to cut it out (the holes), or will it work as is and not interfere with the butterflies?

[baz]

http://opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3843
this is the thread otto was on about and i have to agree again
" fix the problem dont treat the symptoms "

[GTJIM]

Originally Posted by bozkm Now guys, talk to me about the heat shield..do I have to cut it out (the holes), or will it work as is and not interfere with the butterflies?

Nothing disrupts air flow like thin plates sticking out into the inlet tract!
Just grind the hole out to at least the size of the bottom of the carb throats and while you are about it look at the inlet manifold under there to as, standard the flange is smaller than the Weber - especially on the secondary (larger) throat. Just make sure grindy bits don't get down into the manifold.
Best done when the manifolds are off the engine and can be rigourously cleaned - so I hope you have not redone the head to manifold gasket yet.

[GoinManta]

More info on that is in the Legere article on intakes. If its not here in the archives it is at the http://www.opel-na.com website in the tech library.

If you're pulling the intake it's a great time to port the intake. Hardest part will be removing the intake from the exhaust. Even then, you could do it attached to the exhaust if you removed the intake from the head, and blocked the holes in the head while you worked on the intake. Will leave a lot of little AL bits in the engine bay though. Clean them up before you put everything together.

Optimally you would put it on a bench to do the work.

Charles

[caramiciu]

Originally Posted by BQS4 bozkm; As for the fuel inlet, you can unscrew the one on there, unscrew the cap on the opposite side and swap them. That way the inlet nipple is pointed away from the valve cover. This is one of the nice things about a weber. As for the hard starting and such, I'd make sure all your timing marks are aligned correctly. My sister's GT ran great, when she first got it, then switching to a weber, I found it used to have the A.I.R. pump and the PO didn't seal up the nozzles correctly and had to advance the timing to compensate for the extra air. So after correctly plugging all the leaks, and adjusting, the car ran well enough to scare the sh*t out of her.

Hi,
just getting ready to buy the 32/36 weber and all of a sudden I goot hit with this question: Linkage rotation...clockwise or counterclockwise.
can you guys help me with this or direct me to the people you purchsed your carburator (allready set for the correct intake and air jets) from
Thanks

[Paul]

Ccw...

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by Paul Originally Posted by caramiciu Hi, just getting ready to buy the 32/36 weber and all of a sudden I goot hit with this question: Linkage rotation...clockwise or counterclockwise. can you guys help me with this or direct me to the people you purchased your carburator (allready set for the correct intake and air jets) from Thanks Ccw...

. . . looking at the carb from the linkage connection end (rear) . . .

[Paul]

Originally Posted by tekenaar . . . looking at the carb from the linkage connection end (rear) . . .

yea, as if one is holding the carb in one's hands and looking at the linkage and shaft assy. It would be CCW, or counter clockwise, or anti-clockwise