Is my float overflowing?
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Thread: Is my float overflowing?

  1. #1
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Is my float overflowing?

    I've been having problems with my GT hogging gas, not having much performance, won't idle when it's warm and generally not happy with the performance.

    I have a 1.9+ hi comp, 2.0 valves, combo cam, Weber 38DGEV, Pertronix, lightened flywheel, S10 clutch, electric fuel pump.

    Here is a video inside the carb at idle (turned the stop screw a little to keep it idling).

    I see gas dripping into the carb on the passenger side.

    I do have a rebuilt distributor going in soon to help assure that I'm not getting performance issues due to a sticky centrifugal advance. That will happen later.

    What say you all about the carb?

    P.S. I did spray WD40 all around the leak points and didn't notice any significant change in idle.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
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  3. #2
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    I would think that the passenger side bbl of the 38 is not in the idle circuit.
    ie opened to far.
    guyopel likes this.

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  4. #3
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrench459 View Post
    I would think that the passenger side bbl of the 38 is not in the idle circuit.
    ie opened to far.
    Verified during assembly that both butterfly plates engage the idle circuit evenly. If passenger isn't on the idle circuit then neither is the driver side.

    Also to note. When coming to a stop at the end of higher RPM's the idle will sit a little high (1100) but then fade til it sputters and dies.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
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  6. #4
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    Well if the float is overflowing both bbl's would be dripping.
    Unless the Opel is parked very off kilter.
    guyopel likes this.

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    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrench459 View Post
    Well if the float is overflowing both bbl's would be dripping.
    Unless the Opel is parked very off kilter.
    Engine naturally tilts to the passenger side by 4 degrees. Also parked at the curb with a street camber of about 2 degrees. So, 6 degrees +/- to the passenger side.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
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  8. #6
    7,000 Post Club My location wrench459's Avatar
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    So Mr. Wizard

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    tomking My location tomking's Avatar
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    Here is a video inside the carb at idle (turned the stop screw a little to keep it idling).
    this is probably a clue.
    TMK

  10. #8
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    is power valve spring trimmed back?

    how about vacuum at idle on carb's "S" port?
    RallyBob likes this.

  11. #9
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    I had something similar, I had to adjust the idle screw in until it would idle but as a result put it into the main circuit. I ultimately realized my ignition timing was off and as a result it wouldn't idle unless I adjusted the idle screw in. Once the base timing was properly adjusted I was able to back out the idle screw, problem solved.

  12. #10
    Member My location guyopel's Avatar
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    Idle jet clogged or restricted which would make idle circuit weak or lean and engine would pull fuel from the booster. Wrench does state that it's idle circuit and I agree with him. If the throttle place is open past the idle port you will need to correct this. You should check your float level just to verify it's at spec. Hope you get this fixed.
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    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter My location RallyBob's Avatar
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    As mentioned previously...check your vacuum at idle. If it's 14.5" or less (due to the camshaft), then you are likely drawing fuel from the power valve at idle speed.

    Unmetered fuel.....just dumping in.
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  14. #12
    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    I had the same problem with my 2.0 and a combo-ish cam. As stated, power valve spring trim back. Hesitation/stumble disappears.

  15. #13
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    OK, power valve is unaltered (I think).
    The base timing is set correct.
    I can try to check the vacuum at "idle" but the idle being set a little high might change that, correct?
    The idle screw adjustment from "idling high" to not idling at all is less than 1/64 turn of the idle stop screw.
    Float is set low, if anything. I always err on the side of a low float because Opels are prone to boiling over anyhow. I have verified the float level.
    Clogged idle jet "shouldn't" be the issue. I checked the idle jets when this first happened (fresh rebuilt carb) and checked them again a week later. I will check them again.

    None of these address the secondary issue of it not having power and burning way too much fuel despite being set up identical to my engine's twin which runs amazing.

    The only different variables between the two engines is the distributor. The carbs are set the same. (except possibly the power valve).

    Should the power valve spring be trimmed or is it not supposed to be trimmed? I'm willing to give it a shot.

    It should also be noted that the engine only drips gas like that when running. Not when it's not running. Electric fuel pump engaged.

    Even if it's running partly on the transition circuit, a drop a second (actually a little faster) seems like a LOT of extra fuel dangling on the butterfly.

    Also, I can't check the idle vacuum below where it's set because it won't idle there at all.
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    Just Some Dude in Jersey My location The Scifi Guy's Avatar
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    I have heard it said that almost all Opels with a Weber could benefit from a trim back of the power valve spring. If you have the stumble transitioning from idle, it is often because of that spring, not always, but often. Weber 38's are notoriously difficult to dial in, I had the same trouble on the Baron. I started by trimming 1/2 of a loop off that spring at a time followed by test rides, each 1/2 loop lessened the stumble. When I hit 3 full loops the stumble entirely disappeared and I could punch the gas pedal with the engine idling at 750 and instantly spin tires with no hesitation or stumble. The car had an automatic, a 2.0, and a cam that was somewhere between a Combo and a MaxComp. My idle vacuum was less than 10.
    Last edited by The Scifi Guy; 2 Weeks Ago at 03:43 PM.

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    Project 1450 supporter... Site Supporter My location RallyBob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by First opel 1981 View Post
    OK, power valve is unaltered (I think).
    The base timing is set correct.
    I can try to check the vacuum at "idle" but the idle being set a little high might change that, correct?
    The idle screw adjustment from "idling high" to not idling at all is less than 1/64 turn of the idle stop screw.
    So...what is correct base timng for a combo cam? It's not stock timing for sure. An OR-66 cam will need about 8 degrees at idle, 36 degrees total on a 1.9.

    If the engine has low idle vacuum, then the vacuum advance is already advanced at idle, and you'd need to delete the vacuum advance since it's effectively doing nothing.

    Same goes with that power valve. Its designed to add extra fuel at higher engine loads (low vacuum) and higher rpm. But if you have low idle vacuum then its just randomly dumping fuel. Cutting the power valve spring changes the point at which the power valve opens to a lower vacuum value. Now, if you have 15+ inches of vacuum at idle, cutting the power valve spring will hurt more than help. Its a fine line....

    When you say idle screw adjustment...do you mean idle speed or idle mixture? If the idle mixture screw is doing nothing, then you may be into the main circuit already.
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  18. #16
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    I mean the idle speed adjustment.
    The mixture screws still affect the idle at the setting it's at.

    I have the timing set at 8 degrees idle, when I can get it to idle at 1000,with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged.

    I will look into the power valve.
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  19. #17
    Member My location Dmcbrass's Avatar
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    What are your compression numbers like? Are they reasonably even. My 2.0 with DCOEs will idle at 600 rpm. I also have the 66 cam.

  20. #18
    Über Genius My location First opel 1981's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dmcbrass View Post
    What are your compression numbers like? Are they reasonably even. My 2.0 with DCOEs will idle at 600 rpm. I also have the 66 cam.
    My compression numbers were pretty even. It's a fresh build and, if I recall, around 175 with 171 lowest and 182 highest.
    It's time to check again though now that it's broke in.
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    Use a mity vac to see how much vacuum opens your power valve.

  22. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frozen Tundra GT View Post
    Use a mity vac to see how much vacuum opens your power valve.
    I have no idea how or where to hook up a mighty vacuum to see the function of the power valve.
    Opel GTs are not GM products
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—
    Humans are not an endangered species!
    ̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶— ̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶ ̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶ ̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—̶̶̶̶̶̶̶—

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