Clearance for side draft's

[Anders]

After reading just about all that has been written about ssd and dsd and the problem with clearance i have a question.
The engine on a GT tilts a few degrees to the right to make place for the original carb making it very tight near the heater box what if you tilt it the other way this should give you more room for side draft carbs.
Knowing the level of knowledge on this site i'm sure someone has already tried this or am i wrong ?

[GTJIM]

The GT motor has a considerable lean on it - so much so that the gear lever linkage leans over to compensate. Move the motor back to level and the gear level moves a long way too.

Also the side draft intake manifolds already have the angle machined into them to keep the Webers level - SD Webers will only tolerate about 4 to 5 degrees away from level.

It is a nice idea but changes so many other angular relationships - just use 'shorties' or chop the heater box.

[Anders]

Well I am planning to use a getrag 240. Does this still mean I have to shorten the shifter axel going into the gearbox just weld it back together at the right angle this sorts that problem. The manifolds are not only made to fit the GT, and other models don't have a leaning engine mantas asconas etc. So I'm not so sure the are made with an angle to compensate for the GT's leaning. And I am planning to use the 2.4 and the Irmscher shorties don't fit the intake ports I think, I have never heard of short manifolds for the 2.2 and 2.4.

[baz]

as you change the box and its mount to work in the gt you could mount the engine upright but to use side draft carbs on the 2.2/2.4 engines you will need to have the inlets welded and reworked where they mount on the head , i think its a move of about 10mm for the mounting points to get the inlet to match to the head and a spacer for the thermostat housing to give room to and i think the manta /ascona manifolds would work as they do not have the angle Jim mentions , just dont know if they make a shorty for them , if not a set of gt ones would have to be done at the same time as the mount move

[tekenaar]

Originally Posted by Anders Well I am planning to use a getrag 240. Does this still mean I have to shorten the drive-shaft going into the gearbox just weld it back together at the right angle this sorts that problem. The manifolds are not only made to fit the GT, and other models don't have a leaning engine mantas asconas etc. So I'm not so sure the are made with an angle to compensate for the GT's leaning. And I am planning to use the 2.4 and the Irmscher shorties don't fit the intake ports I think, I have never heard of short manifolds for the 2.2 and 2.4.

. . . Getrag 240 installation info!

[Anders]

Thanks for your thoughts on my ideas.
The manifolds I'm planning to use are made specifically for the 2,2 and 2,4 and don't need any mods I'm not sure how long they are.
The Swedish dealer also has thermostat housing made to fit with dual webers.
They also have manifolds for single side-draft carbs.
MISAB BILRESERVDELAR, MISOIL Motorolja, MISAB Batterier, Förgasare, Trimningssatser
- ENEM

[P.J. Romano]

I understand that the heater box can be hammered inside 1-1.5 inch in order to increase the clearance to the rear carburetor. I am concerned that I could damage the heater blower inside the box.

Can somebody inform what is exact clearance between heater blower and the box wall?

[ConreroGT]

Even if you were successful on hammering the heaterbox in a few inches to CLEAR the carb after it's mounted, getting them ON will be your first problem. Remember you need to clear the manifold bolts to get the carbs on. Unless you use something else....I don't know what.....getting to the rear most bottom bolt is hard WITH studs. The studs also provide something for the gasket to hang on and stay in place.

Not only having room to get the carbs on, it's also nice to have enough room to remove the velocity stack/chokes without having to remove the carb everytime.

I use Risse intake manifolds on my 2.2 head.

[P.J. Romano]

Thanks Kyle. I am using short manifold which leaves about 1" to the heater box. I am using 1/2" (12 mm) velocity stacks but cannot use my Synchrometer to properly balance carburetors. 1" extra space would help.
I am just not sure if I will get that extra inch by pounding or cutting the heater box.
It will probably be better to cut-off the slice of the box and avoid damage to the blower if I blindly hammer the box. Just much more work...

[jvandyke]

My heater box has been hacked up by PO, here's pictures, especially "baybox" shot.
The dreaded PO's handywork.
He cut out the bump out that held the coolant lines to/from heater core and made a new wall from sheet that screwed on. I don't know what he had put there but now that there's room, I want it back! Twins?
He had the coolant lines to and from the heater core rerouted as you can see. I have since redone it all as the heater controls and valve needed work.
Just to show what someone else did to get room, the black sheet metal wall you see in the picture is up tight against the heater box/fan motor assembly. Not sure how much room he got out of it but he sure spent some time on it. Look at the shots from the inside you can see his walls and figure about how much gain there can be had by doing this.

[P.J. Romano]

Originally Posted by jvandyke My heater box has been hacked up by PO, here's pictures, especially "baybox" shot. The dreaded PO's handywork. He cut out the bump out that held the coolant lines to/from heater core and made a new wall from sheet that screwed on. I don't know what he had put there but now that there's room, I want it back! Twins? He had the coolant lines to and from the heater core rerouted as you can see. I have since redone it all as the heater controls and valve needed work. Just to show what someone else did to get room, the black sheet metal wall you see in the picture is up tight against the heater box/fan motor assembly. Not sure how much room he got out of it but he sure spent some time on it. Look at the shots from the inside you can see his walls and figure about how much gain there can be had by doing this.

OUCH!! Major lobotomy. I will not go that radically.
Thanks anyway. It indirectly answered my question.

[ConreroGT]

PJ, you could cut the box out and re-fabricate a lower/and or smaller box around the blower. I have pics of what the blower looks like with the cover cut off:

[nobody]

There is an instruction set that I got from OGTS previously in the Blitz that details the removal of the heater box and the use of a Manta fan in a GT. It only works with one or 2 intake types tho. As for the lack of usability of your over the throat synchronizer, don't bother, those are pure junk. Get yourself a real manomitor often found on Ebay or at motorcycle shops. As for the removed heater box, skip the Manta fan and have a look at Newark electronics online for a high volume 6 inch pancake fan, it actually will outperform the stock fan if installed correctly. HTH

[P.J. Romano]

Originally Posted by ConreroGT PJ, you could cut the box out and re-fabricate a lower/and or smaller box around the blower. I have pics of what the blower looks like with the cover cut off:

Kyle,
This is exactly what I was looking for. At the first glance, there might be even up to 3" of space to spare. That would certainly solve the problem.
I am getting ready to pull the engine out and that would be a good opportunity for the heater box surgery.
Thank you very much.
P.J.

[jvandyke]

Originally Posted by P.J. Romano Kyle, This is exactly what I was looking for. At the first glance, there might be even up to 3" of space to spare. That would certainly solve the problem. I am getting ready to pull the engine out and that would be a good opportunity for the heater box surgery. Thank you very much. P.J.

Kyles pictures are exactly what was done to my car, then the opening covered with sheet metal. If it was "major labotomy" on my car, what's the difference on Kyle's? Here's how mine is now, after I put a new heater box in with the tubes back in original place (only exposed now that the housing is cut out).
look at the last post
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/group-9...hook-up-2.html

[P.J. Romano]

Originally Posted by jvandyke Kyles pictures are exactly what was done to my car, then the opening covered with sheet metal. If it was "major labotomy" on my car, what's the difference on Kyle's? Here's how mine is now, after I put a new heater box in with the tubes back in original place (only exposed now that the housing is cut out). look at the last post http://www.opelgt.com/forums/group-9...hook-up-2.html

Hi,
Your help is much appreciated. What scared me was non-automotive plumbing. Glad that you have changed it.
Also, I could not see on your pictures the clearance between the blower and the box which is what I asked initially.
Once again, thank you very much, the Opelers are great team!

I will try to close the heater box with a fiberglass - might be easier than with the sheet metal. Have to think about as it will be quite exposed to heat. Will post some pictures if successful.

One or another way, the dreadful box will be amputated!

[jvandyke]

Don't get the idea I was offended, just confused.

The sheet metal wall on mine is tight up against the heater box. Normally the tube are pretty close if not right on it, I wedged the metal between them.