side draft manifold lengths?

[yellaopelgt]

I agree, very nice! Great job Dave!! So with these intakes,you wont need the offset thermostat housing?? If thats the case, than thats another $75.00-$100.00 saved!!!

Joe

[nobody]

Ok, that was fun. All the welds I could get to are cleaned up and the mounting holes and little ears are finished. I also finished the vacuum line connections and did a bit of finish sanding on it. I'll take it out to be flow sandblasted this week so it will be all done. Fun little project, too bad it's designed for a GT or I'd try it in the wagon.

There are a couple key things to remember if you do this one. The more you weld on those small pieces the harder the metal gets, do your light machine work first, drilling and tapping and such. Right now this one is hard as a rock and if I hadn't done those small things first, I'd be starting over. Do as much as you dare with the carbs mounted up, it's tricky enough so cheat all you can.

Joe, I'll have to bring over a head to try some fitment things but it does look like no need for a modified thermostat housing. No big deal either way, I've got a housing already cut to work but hasn't been sent to the welding shop yet. They cost 65 to weld it up and it worked just fine.

[nobody]

Had a bit of a hiccup on the thermostat after pulling the Delta head out of storage to test fit it all on. Nothing that a wee bit of cutting couldn't solve. All locating points are good and a stock thermostat housing bolts right up. I did the vacuum hookups in 1/4 NPT for a reason or two. A good manomator point, possible injector point to cool off this particular motor and let it run on pump gas.

Oh and the pic does no justice to the color. It is really vivid.

[opelbits]

So.....what are your thoughts for a heatshield?

[GTJIM]

The yellow and black go well together - wait till they move some gases!

The tie bar between them on the flange is sure going to make setting up the linkages much easier.

[nobody]

Ya I had to include that bar from side to side. For that flange it screamed out fuel rail mounting point. As for a heat shield, I've never needed one with twins before so I hadn't thought about it. This pair was designed and built for a very specific motor. The use of some of the flanges and pieces only let me fine tune it for a yella Opel GT.

On a side note, that flange and head just might pop back up since the flange was done that way for fuel injection as well as twin. The Delta head it's bolted to is a finished head but without cam and rockers for the turbo motor.

"winter turbo" inches forward all the time

[lewdawg]

Speaking of Dave's projects, if anyone would like to purchase Dave's homemade sprint manifold, I have it and would be happy to sell it to any taker. I will not be putting it on my vehicle since I decided to go a different direction.

[nobody]

I'm sorry to hear that, Mark. I hope all is going well with your projects. I'd be interested in having it back but shipping it would be a chore. I'd especially like to have that collector back, for obvious reasons.

[lewdawg]

All is going well Dave. A few set backs as far as time goes with my project but since I am done with school now, I will be able to dedicate more time to my car. I will be starting to put together my motor this weekend as soon as I get rid of some electrical bugs out of my car. Then it will be time to clearance the trans case to accept the S-10 clutch set up. By the way, I had to have the S-10 flywheel you sold me redrilled and tapped because it was so far off center. Must have been a bad day for you or something. The machinist was able to to spin it and put it on center to within .001 inch and then I went ahead and had my rotating assembly balanced. I picked up a sprint manifold off of e-bay and I believe that is what I will run. The header I have installed now will also go on sale once the swap is complete. May start a thread to show the progress and get input from the community. I did have one question for you Dave about these intakes. You said they were set up for a GT and couldn't install them on your wagon. Why not put them in the wagon and try them out? I can understand an issue of going from a wagon to a GT because of the room issue in a GT, but not the other way around. Please explain...Thanks. Mark

[nobody]

I'm glad all is going well for you. The intake is set for a GT with a 14 degree slant to it. A wagon motor is like a Manta or 1900 and sits flat. The intake would put the floats at a slant if used in a level motor. There is a plan for a flat intake in the future. I used a Cannon meant for a GT in a wagon before but it had issues. I can only guess that the 2 inch collector will have a new home soon.

I had the local Napa place center the clutch when they flattened it, they weren't too happy with the price they quoted for the work and later got to me in doubling the price. Sorry for the inconvenience.

[lewdawg]

No problem, It's right now and I would stay away from that NAPA from now on. Thanks for the info on the wagon/GT difference. Learn something everyday.

[yellaopelgt]

That really looks great Dave!! Really starting to get the blood pumping about this project!! I better get on the ball and get the rest of the car ready for the swap!! Shocks, electric fuel pump,find that bigger alternator,new bushings, pull the old motor,big front brake package, find a STRONGER rear end with rear disc brakes!!! Too many things, so little time.....good news is I found most of the bolts for the front sway bar!!!!haha
later,
Joe

[GTJIM]

The intake is set for a GT with a 14 degree slant to it. A wagon motor is like a Manta or 1900 and sits flat. The intake would put the floats at a slant if used in a level motor. There is a plan for a flat intake in the future. I used a Cannon meant for a GT in a wagon before but it had issues.

This leads to the Webers having a 14 degree down draft angle when a GT intake is used on a Manta or Kadett - Weber advises that DCOEs should only be used with a down draft angle of 5 to 7 degrees maximum or the fuel levels and jet covering by fuel gets all out of whack - upsetting the air-fuel ratios.

That beggs the question - What happens when a car is on more than a 7 degree road camber ... on has one set of wheels in a gutter! ??

[bendele]

That beggs the question - What happens when a car is on more than a 7 degree road camber ... on has one set of wheels in a gutter! ??

As you've said, the air fuel mixture gets all out of whack. The engine will flood and/or stall out.

That's why all the offroad and rock crawling guys switch over to some form of fuel injection. Keeps the engine running even if you're at a pretty extreme angle.

Chris

[N61WP]

Another option to the heat shield is header wrap. I know it reduces the life of the headers...but it sure works well on mine to keep things cooler under the hood.
Jc

[nobody]

I thought about the header wrap and it probably will go that route. I spoke with a company in Denver that did ceramic coatings but the price and lead time were off the charts for this project's budget. BTW I'm not too worried about life shortening. The header is thick wall tubing not thin like exhaust pipe.

Speaking of that makes me think a bit about the next couple of projects that were all tied to this one in several ways. By buying more than one flange set it gave me some breathing room for screw ups and room to go even further. Mark was right on track with my thinking, try it out in the wagon. I've already started another set of intake and exhaust to fire off that set of carbs on a similar motor. I was wondering if anybody was going to ask about them after the pic was posted. I've done some searching and they are an old/ new something with no track record. I have to fire them off to make a judgement.

Unfortunately to test them out I have to pull the motor from the wagon and drop in a comparable motor with similar intake and exhaust, set up a usable clutch and tranny then flog it around town a wee bit after tuning it all in......Kind of a tall order, give me 3 weeks give or take 14 days for exhaust work and I'll have a bunch of answers and questions.

[nobody]

There are times that I have a bit of a brain fart and can't put everything together all at one time. My current employer does thermal ceramics for assay kilns that normally run around 2600 degrees. We do all the custom pieces for them in house. Let's see if you catch my drift on this. If you use some of the refractive fibor and overlay it with the morganite it will be heat reflective and cool to the touch at all times. ...Na I don't think I'll be using the heat wrap.

I do catch up to myself on occasion.

Morganite and refractive fibor are trademarked to VJ but are used by DFC, CIC and megadiamond exclusively. Trust me I throw more of it away than a header could use every day.

brain fart to not put the 2 together I guess. too bad I can't post this to the sprint manifold thread that started it off.

Jim and Cees, VJ is a down under company and we ship almost daily hmm.....